Brian's '96

Post by **SteveG** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 5:10 pm

GFB Resident ROCKSTART!

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:20 pm

philofab wrote:I had the same problems with my 9" rear Brian. I lost wheel bearings constantly... they seemed to last about 5k miles.

You still having pinion bearing problems too?

That's why I'm interested in your 10.25/60 hybrid. May be the cheapest route to FF.

No pinion issues.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:52 pm

But aren't the 14 bolt and the Sterlings all cast center sections? What's the plan weld the tubes, and slap a truss on it? Is the sterling rosette welded like the 8.8's? If so I think welding the tubes and doing the d60's is definitely a solid step in the right direction.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:08 pm

Why a Sterling? They are heavier than shit with poor ground clearance. Yes they are cheap, but for the same money you could put the 60 snouts on a 9" housing. Gusseting a 9" housing isn't any more work than welding the tubes and gusseting a Sterling.

And the tubes do come out of the Sterling's pretty easy.........

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:51 pm

BDKW1 wrote:Why a Sterling?

Because nothing is cheaper than what's already owned. Not that heavy. Big, yes. Barstow race course and Baja silt don't like it at all. Tubes are welded and it's trussed.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 7:43 am

BDKW1 wrote:Why a Sterling? They are heavier than shit with poor ground clearance. Yes they are cheap, but for the same money you could put the 60 snouts on a 9" housing. Gusseting a 9" housing isn't any more work than welding the tubes and gusseting a Sterling.

And the tubes do come out of the Sterling's pretty easy.........

Ground clearance is 2" less than a 9". I will scale the Sterling after it's assembled, I weighed my trussed 9" and it was hella heavy too.

I'm surprised the tubes pull out of Sterlings, as they have like 4 plug welds per side. I have never had any issues with any of the Sterlings I've had. I just wanted something bigger as I kept destroying 9" crap. Changing R+P was getting old, and I couldn't afford a 10" setup.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 9:51 am

I will bet that the Sterling is 100#'s heavier than the 9.

How are you breaking that many 9's? We ran one on the 8 truck for years without issue. 650HP 5500# truck with 37's. No load bolt either. Finally upgraded to a 10" with the new motor, but still......

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 10:04 am

BDKW1 wrote:How are you breaking that many 9's? We ran one on the 8 truck for years without issue. 650HP 5500# truck with 37's. No load bolt either. Finally upgraded to a 10" with the new motor, but still......

Manual trans or lots of mileage maybe? Truck got 65,000 miles over the course of that 9". I did tow with it too.

Lets see... lost a pinion seal and bearings, broke a case, went through 3 4.56 R&P. Broke a driveline, one trans, and went through 5 pairs of wheel bearings/seals.

Truck only had a 5.0 with bolt ons. Maybe 300hp at the flywheel on a good day. Maybe I just suck at driving.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 10:48 am

The only thing I see in there that is stress related would be the R&P failures and the case. Even then, 4.56 is not the strongest gear. 4.88 or 4.10's are much stronger. An auto probably would have made that live. Wheel bearings, yeah, you got Me there, they were good for less than a year on the Barge.

I just can't see strapping all the extra unsprung weight onto a vehicle.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:02 am

: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420134957.895453.jpg (233.9 KiB) Viewed 1967 times

: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420134907.647253.jpg (291.74 KiB) Viewed 1967 times

For the record, 9", nodular Yukon case, drum brakes, Giant truss, fluid, factory housing, 4.56 gears, 272 pounds.

I will weight the Sterling once it's welded up and assembled. I'm guessing in the 300 pound range.

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:23 pm

Two weeks to Pismo and....oh man. Not sure if it'll be ready. Switching to a 3 bolt 3rd member and going back to an LS in the front. Don't like how it handles at speed with an open carrier. Have a Dutchman axle ordered, a new drive shaft and still waiting for the differential and overhaul kit to arrive.

Ported the slip yoke. This was more than enough clearance and didn't have to remove too much material.

Blasted the housing, chased all the threads and painted it up.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:24 pm

Nice! Is that a new style slip yoke axle connected to the bolt in side? Or just the newer style boot?

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:38 pm

philofab wrote:Nice! Is that a new style slip yoke axle connected to the bolt in side? Or just the newer style boot?

Just the boot. Still debating whether to use it or put the old style seal on.

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:58 am

The Dutchman axle arrived yesterday. It looks great. The finish where it's undercut for the seal is around 4-8 and the radius transitions are free of stress risers. Splines are ground smooth without the chatter common in hobbing. The do good work there for sure. There is a problem with the splines though. The OD is about .020 under the factory axle and there is significant play (The reason I was ordering an axle to begin with was excessive wear in the male splines). Contact angle appears correct. Slip yoke shows almost no signs of wear. I'm not certain if this was an error in ordering on my part, or what. I specified number of splines, D44 IFS and vehicle mfr, model and year. Dutchman seemed to be very familiar with it. Will call today and see what they say.

Picked up a new driveshaft from CJ Tatton. Wanted to give them a try because their pricing is very competitive and I've heard good things about them. Also want to try the small diameter tube for clearance and reduced noise transfer through the drivetrain with the thicker wall tube.

Finished dolling up and rebuilding the axles. Also have the beam housing prepped to clock the third member. Just waiting on the Tru Trac to get things assembled.

Post by **SteveG** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:29 am

Man, this is like real prep work!

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Sun Jan 25, 2015 10:59 am

Welllll, never made it to Pismo. A $2 part held up the show. Didn't think getting an oil slinger would take so long. During the downtime I made a mudflap bracket. Woohoooooo!! Planning to put new shafts in the rear shocks and wanted some protection before hand. The rear end takes a serious pummeling, so rather than putting boots on the shocks, decided to go Yosemite Sam style. I think there are going to be more strategically placed guards going on in the future. Maybe even some chrome women for a classy touch.

tcm glx · Post by **tcm glx** » Sun Jan 25, 2015 11:21 am

Love it. I want one!

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Jan 25, 2015 12:21 pm

I remember that style of mudflap being popular in the early 2000s. Not sure why people got away from it.

cypher · Post by **cypher** » Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:06 pm

I love this protection flap. If I still had my bronco this would be my next project. Nicely executed!

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 3:38 am

Clocked and loaded!! 3 bolt third is in. Should be drivable today. Hammer time!

Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96

Re: Brian's '96