Cut/Turned questions

[VintageIronFab]

Where do you get zero degree bushings at? Are those an Oreilly's kind if item?

[Rmc]

Here's what I was telling you about procedure wise:

[Rmc]

Here you go.
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreilly ... &make=Ford

[ChaseTruck754]

Do you plan to put everything back together to remeasure after you cut the lower balljoint mount out? I personally would just measure the angle between the two balljoints using a straight piece of rod passed through both ball joint holes. That way you don't have to put it all back together to check it after tacking.

Personally I'd get them where you want and put the knuckle back in to tack & then weld as much as possible with it in. Doing so does take more time/effort, but it also ensures the knuckle will go back in later, with the proper ball joint alignment.

[Willwater]

Do you plan to put everything back together to remeasure after you cut the lower balljoint mount out? I personally would just measure the angle between the two balljoints using a straight piece of rod passed through both ball joint holes. That way you don't have to put it all back together to check it after tacking.

Personally I'd get them where you want and put the knuckle back in to tack & then weld as much as possible with it in. Doing so does take more time/effort, but it also ensures the knuckle will go back in later, with the proper ball joint alignment.

Probably a very good idea if you are using the cut the lower ball joint method. like I said I did mine the lazy way, but its a trailer queen so I really didn't care as long as it was within a couple degrees.

[VintageIronFab]

Well I am now at that point where I need some good advice-- I have cut out the lower joint on both beams, the radius arms are all built minus putting the mounting ears on, and have cycled the suspension and the beams can go way more forward due to the uniballs than the stock frame mounting point can possibly allow. I put the coil buckets on, and installed the 4" Procomp coils (which turned out to be right at 3.25").

My main question is for setup purposes do any of you use a piece of tubing as your "coil spring" and then temporarily hold the beams at a particular point in space to set the caster/camber perfectly. Being that I have the uniballs in there the beams are able to move all over the place-- both good and bad.

Thanks!

[Travisfab]

I'm not sure how well moving your beams forward, and using a coil bucket is going to work. Is the coil bucket being moved forward also?

I have these for camber adjusters. You have a lot more options with these, but still nothing like control arms.

Positive caster is good for beams!

[VintageIronFab]

yea I was just made aware of that today of the coil buckets and the coils. Moving them too much would probably cause some issues without moving the buckets as well. How I understand is with a coilover about 1" farther forward is about as far as you can go without some clearance issues but I could be wrong about that. Tomorrow my Moog two piece cams are coming in -- hopefully it all works out fine cam wise.

[Willwater]

yea I was just made aware of that today of the coil buckets and the coils. Moving them too much would probably cause some issues without moving the buckets as well. How I understand is with a coilover about 1" farther forward is about as far as you can go without some clearance issues but I could be wrong about that. Tomorrow my Moog two piece cams are coming in -- hopefully it all works out fine cam wise.

It is probably too late because you already have everything built but moving the front end forward 1" is not a problem with the coil springs. Compared to the amount of misalignment you cause in the spring doing the cut and turn the inch forward is negligible.