Cut/Turned questions

[philofab]

Thanks guys, now I can tell it's an expensive, and labor intensive job... How, roughly, does someone "cut and turn?"

Two ways.

1. You can cut the entire end off of the ttb and rotate it for alignment. Care needs to be taken to keep the u-joint in the same spot so the axle shaft does not bind on the drivers side or cause clearance issues on the passenger beam. This way the ball joints stay in line perfectly.

2. The more common easier way, cut the lower ball joint taper out and move it outward to correct alignment. Weld and plate it back in. Each side is moved a different length outward due to length differences in the beams. This causes the ball joints to no longer be in line perfectly. Can cause some accelerated wear in theory. Most C+T beams are done this way.

[Firetwig]

You rock man!

[MOSS2]

You guys are so nice! I was going to say you just 'cut' the check and 'turn' it over to Autofab and its done... Not complicated at all.

[Nick]

You guys are so nice! I was going to say you just 'cut' the check and 'turn' it over to Autofab and its done... Not complicated at all.

[SteveG]

You guys are so nice! I was going to say you just 'cut' the check and 'turn' it over to Autofab and its done... Not complicated at all.

Ha! Been there, done that... several times!

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

I have had a drop bracket lift on the bronco for little over 10 years and am working on getting the parts list togethor to go cut and turn. I am aiming for something that I would not be afraid to catch a little air with, and something that will work a little better in the dunes and on the street. What I have now is decent and has thus far done what I wanted. The bronco needs new shocks and the whole front end needs rebuilt as it all has 240k on it. I am also going to regear it to 4.11's at the same time
I have been working with Dave at threat.SO far my list includes:
Standard Cut & Turned beams, Hiemed radius arms w/pivot brackets, Bilstien 5100s, 4" Coil springs, Steel braided brake lines (I have these already but I want to run hard line down the radius arm just to be different), Uni ball pivot upgrade, Bolt on Rear Shock mount for up too 12" stroke shocks
Any additions you all would recommend?

What upper balljoint cam do you guys usually run with that above? I have the adjustable ones in it right now but maybe better off with the set ones?

I also planned on just running my procomp re leaves for awhile, eventually upgrading to deavers. Anyone have a good reason not to do this? I think I will end up slightly raked with the 4" lift in front. It sits 1/2" high in the front now.

[baja-chris]

0 degree. That's the point of the cut and turn, to fix the alignment without lift kit brackets.

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

makes sense on the upper alignment bushing, I will get some of those too, though I think I could maybe set the ones I have to zero. I would rather not have the adjustables. I thought they maybe needed even with a cut and turn to get the alignment good.

[Rmc]

Cut and turn refers to the beam remaining bolted to the stock pivot location, lifting the truck to the desired height, turning the beam end to the proper camber angle at ride height and welding it back together with the ballpark close as possible to factory. At that point fine camber correction is done via the upper balljoint cam. Replacement is not needed unless yours are dammaged.

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

I understand on the cut and turn. Was wondering if the adjustable ones where known for causing issues on trucks that see more then street use?
My plan is to locate another set of arms and send those out to Threat, and then swap them for what's on the truck after painting them and also regearing a third member. It would be a good time to get new alignment cams especialy since I will be doing ball joints and tierods at the sametime.

thanks for the input

[Rmc]

I beat the crap out of my bronco and the adjusters are all original, rusty as hell they still are good. It's not a bad idea to replace if you are replacing everything else.

[VintageIronFab]

Hello All,
I was am about to a simple C&T-- there is two versions that seem to make perfect sense-- the lower ball joint method and then the cut the beam from the bottom up and spread apart then fill in the gap with steel. I can easily see either method as acceptable and strong.

Thanks,
Matt

[ESHALLBETTER]

Not sure what you're trying to ask. Moving the ball joint is easier, and both methods work well. I prefer the pie-cut method as it keeps the balljoints in the knuckle in thier factory alignment, but you will need to clock the diff.

[VintageIronFab]

This is why I was asking-- reclocking the diff isnt at all something I even want to think about at this point. I was just looking at the Chris Wilson thread and Glen just pulls the lower ball joint out-- if the guy that built the F2000 pulls out the lower ball joint-- so am I

[baja-chris]

This is why I was asking-- reclocking the diff isnt at all something I even want to think about at this point. I was just looking at the Chris Wilson thread and Glen just pulls the lower ball joint out-- if the guy that built the F2000 pulls out the lower ball joint-- so am I

Glen built the F2000 also. It's 2wd but not sure if it's kingpin or ball joint, but in either case, it would be a bent beam not a cut and turn.

[ChaseTruck754]

I think he was just saying that someone who can build to the level of that truck, he's ok trusting & doing as they do.

[VintageIronFab]

Thats exactly what I am saying!

[VintageIronFab]

Hello All,
Like the title said-- I am about to do the C&T and would like to see if you all would chime in on my measurement methods. On the pics with the jackstands I put them in what I believe is the exact same spot on the beam/knuckle intersection at the jackstands lowest position. From there I measured the camber at the hub on both sides and the caster at the flat portion at the forward portion of the knuckle. The pics of the upper BJ nut is to show the adjuster and find out if those are the stock straight up units. If you all think the measurements are good then I will continue on with putting in the lift coils and then take the measurements again.

Thanks for the help,
Matt

[VintageIronFab]

Here are the adjusters pics-- if these are adjusters or just stock non-adjustable pieces.

[Willwater]

it looks to me like it has non zero degree camber bushings in it. Just pull the castle nut and the degrees should be stamped on the top of the bushing. It would be preferable to start with zero's but if you just cut enough to return it to your current readings you should be fine. Do you plan to put everything back together to remeasure after you cut the lower balljoint mount out? I personally would just measure the angle between the two balljoints using a straight piece of rod passed through both ball joint holes. That way you don't have to put it all back together to check it after tacking.

I personally just pie cut mine and bent them until the pivot point was 4" higher than it started. I was being lazy and didn't feel like tearing things apart and putting them back together that many times. It is only a degree off right now with brand new springs in. So close enough to align with standard bushings once things settle if they do. You are doing it the more precise way though. But don't put too much thought into it.

I am assuming you pulled you radius arms off so it doesn't screw with the angle when you put the lift springs in? I don't know if it will pull camber off or not, but it is certainly going to screw with the caster badly if you leave them on for measurements.