95 XL hunting truck

[Rmc]

You may want to replumb the entire vacuum system with silicon hoses. Where there's one leak more usually follow. You can order the hose via the web. Maybe hto randy will remember the needed size 7mm if my memory serves. If you decide to do this take it slow, one hose at a time no room for mistakes. But when it's done it's well worth the time for the peace of mind.

[Seabass]

The light is flashing? That means there is an active misfire. Dont drive it like that. The vacuum lines are horrible on these. I've been bandaiding mine since I got it.

If its solid pull the code and we may be able to point you in the right direction.

[cbans]

The light is flashing? That means there is an active misfire. Dont drive it like that. The vacuum lines are horrible on these. I've been bandaiding mine since I got it.

If its solid pull the code and we may be able to point you in the right direction.

it comes on after a couple of min and is in solid until I turn the truck off. The vacuum lines in question are the ones that go through the firewall for the a/c (the ones I found leaking that is). I also noticed that the bracket that holds my coil is not bolted down on the intake side. So just the single brace on the exhaust side of the valve cover (its waving around in the breeze). Who does that on an off road truck?

[Seabass]

Pull the code to narrow down what it could be. Ifd bet its an egr code because you need vacuum for it to operate. But thats just guessing.

[cbans]

Should I buy that ford 3145 code reader or follow the Haynes manual procedure. I got stuck at work today. Hopefully,
tomorrow I'll be able to get at it.

[Seabass]

Your call. Im cheap and would probably use what ever method is listed in your haynes manual

[cbans]

Looked at the codes real quick this morn (gonna look agn tonight). The first code was 558 and the second was 332. I messed up while I was writing them down and I lost track of the blinks after that(I had to get to work). So a quick look says those are EGR codes (Seabass nails it). If nobody has cleared the codes out in a while how long would they hold in the memory. Should write them down, clear them and then see which one comes back in (active?).

[Seabass]

There is a correct way to do it but I'd just disconnect the battery while your repairing the vacuum leak. Should take care of clearing the codes.

[cbans]

The book says pull the jumper out while the key is on and the PCM is transmitting the codes

[cbans]

More info - the code started coming in right after I noticed the rubber hoseby my alternator was not placed over the metal pipe. That hose goes up to a canister behind my battery. I know this is part of the air system but I have not looked it up yet. So.. the previous owner pulled the hose to clear trouble codes?

[Seabass]

No. Disconnect the battery while you reconnect all disconnected vacuum lines and replace all broken ones. Your vacuum system is like a bucket with a hole in the bottom right now. You'll never have suffecient vacuum as long as there's an opening anywhere in the system. There should be a vacuum line routing diagram on the hood's emmisions label. You need to route the hose's the way it's drawn out to pass smog and to fix your egr code (if vacuum is your only issue)

[Rmc]

Might wanna get an obd1 or 2 code reader, it will help steer you to a repair. There cheap these days.

[cbans]

Went and got an OBD1 code reader, 20ft of 5/32 vacuum line and some electrical marking tape. Codes are definitely 558 and 332 is continuous memory. I started replacing the vacuum lines tonight. We'll see how long it takes me to get back to these work has ramped up and the kids practices too. RMC, I did check on the silicone hose but only found one place in town and they wanted between $5 and $6 a foot and I didn't want to wait for something to get shipped.

[Rmc]

As long as you were able to find vacuum hose, around here they look at you funny asking for that stuff. They tried to pawn off some crappy rubber hose telling me " well it's pretty stiff, it shouldn't be a problem using it for vacuum".

[cbans]

I bought thick wall. I need about 2.5 ft of 1/4" for the black hose that goes from the manifold to the vacuum canister. I'll snag that today.
In a previous post I had tried to tie in the disconnected hose coming off the front of the egr pipe. I played with that last trip pulling it off to make sure that didn't have an impact (it didn't). I remembered that right before the codes came in the other thing I did was clean the eng . I probably caused the leaks at the car wash. I am a big fan of "what did you touch last" when stuff suddenly goes wrong. Anyhow I'll get these hoses changed out and get on to something more exciting.

[Rmc]

On mine I had a battery spill acid all over the canister and melted it all down. I plugged the canister hoses with a bolt shoved into the vacuum lines at the canister and the truck ran fine. Recheck after and tell us the codes agian. Also you have to go through all tests the koeo test and the koer test also. Follow the readers manual closely. You have to do the goose test in there someplace also. It's all step by step in the manual ( code reader manual).

[cbans]

Replaced all the vacuum hoses except for the a/c stuff. There is a black and a white line. There is a solenoid on top of the box on the firewall. Mine doesn't have any hoses so I don't know which way to plumb it. All that said I cleared the codes went for a decent ride and no check eng light. Did the key on eng off and all good. I still need to do the eng running test but its raining. Thanks for all the advice.

[cbans]

Into the trash. What I learned - you need about 24ft of 5/32 thick wall hose, 2 x 5/32 T s, 2 x 7/32 to 5/32 reducers and I chose to put some electrical indicator tape on there for later when forget which vacuum hoses are for what purpose. Oh yea, and little bit of 7/32 vacuum hose. This takes care of everything but the a/c. My a/c vacuum hoses were all screwed up. The max air solenoid was bypassed, one of the vacuum hoses had a copper bb in it and the damper solenoid under the dash was physical tied to open the vents. I used a small length of 3/32 or 3.5mm not sure to splice on to the small old hard hose. The black line goes to the source and the white line comes back from the a/c control head to the max air solenoid. Everything works the way it should except I am probably going to need to replace the solenoid under the dash for the damper. When I do that I'll probably drill a hole and run two new rubber hoses through.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

I bought the silicone kit from siliconeintakes.com. Be careful the rubber tends to not last too long.

[Rmc]

Pain in the rear end but a very worthy upgrade, nicely done.