Alternator Discussion

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:49 am

What other wire is tagged into the main charging wire that goes from alternator to solenoid on the fender? I lost charge yesterday while out at KOH...after realizing KOH was a waste of time this year I started to diagnose. The green wire that was once a problem related to charging for me had continuity so I knew it wasnt that. Tapped alternator and still nothing. Swapped alternator and still nothing. I had no continuity from solenoid to alternator lug so I figured fusible link took a shit. Turned out the charge wire was broken inside the shielding in the loom somewhere so I took some wire I had and made a charge wire and still no charging unless I put the broken wire with fusible link on the solenoid.

Anybody who has rewired their charge circuit, what are you using for a breaker or fuse?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:06 am

Sub the 100 amp fuse with a manually resettable circuit breaker if you want. Amperage of fuse/breaker needs to be +10% of rated alt output.

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:26 am

grassyass! Just what I needed.

philofab wrote:

Sub the 100 amp fuse with a manually resettable circuit breaker if you want. Amperage of fuse/breaker needs to be +10% of rated alt output.

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:29 am

The A circuit must be tied into the OEM charge wire somwhere down the line.

Whats the recommended vibration/shock/waterproof 150A resettable breaker thats easily mounted on the fenderwell?

Also what happened to the "edit" feature? I would have rather edited my first reply then add additional ones!

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:36 am

shockseals.com wrote:The A circuit must be tied into the OEM charge wire somwhere down the line.

Whats the recommended vibration/shock/waterproof 150A resettable breaker thats easily mounted on the fenderwell?

Also what happened to the "edit" feature? I would have rather edited my first reply then add additional ones!

This one in 150A looks to be a nice one.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:42 am

Those breakers work just fine off road and in moist environments. I have several on my Bronco and have been installing them for years on vans with wheelchair lifts. Do not use anything but a Type III on a high amp alt circuit.

Type I - Auto Reset: Cycles back on after overload.
Type II - Power-Off Reset: Non-cycling, breaker remains off after tripping until power is removed, resets when power is turned back on.
Type III - Manual Reset: Remains off until button is pushed to reset.

Seabass · Post by **Seabass** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:42 pm

shockseals.com wrote:Also what happened to the "edit" feature? I would have rather edited my first reply then add additional ones!

I believe the mods have temporarily taken it away because of accusations. Stuff that really doesn't matter to modding a bronco.

Paulw mentioned copying the super duty dual alternator wiring I believe, The ambulance package is externally regulated and controlled by the ecu if memory serves me. I wanted to retrofit an ambulance package to my 01 and the cost was prohibative. I believe if you were to go dual alternator external regulators would be the ticket. Additionally you could wire the regulators through a small switch instead of the large cables to a boat switch.

PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:46 am

Seabass wrote:
shockseals.com wrote:Also what happened to the "edit" feature? I would have rather edited my first reply then add additional ones!
I believe the mods have temporarily taken it away because of accusations. Stuff that really doesn't matter to modding a bronco.

Paulw mentioned copying the super duty dual alternator wiring I believe, The ambulance package is externally regulated and controlled by the ecu if memory serves me. I wanted to retrofit an ambulance package to my 01 and the cost was prohibative. I believe if you were to go dual alternator external regulators would be the ticket. Additionally you could wire the regulators through a small switch instead of the large cables to a boat switch.

=====
Correct about Dual alts. Way complex and expensive. The dual alts are specifically for emergency vehicles that sit for hours at idle
with multiple lights and radios on. Thus very high amps at low idle rpms is the design goal. Hard to imagine that goal is applicable
to a GFB. The typical G3 has plenty of amps at normal rpms and can be increased with a simple pully change. Won't change the
max output, but will allow more amps at a slightly lower engine rpm. G3s are available with around a 200a capability. My G3 I
bought from Fireguy is rated at 170 and the test data for my unit shows 175 max and plenty of poop at the low end.
Never see low volts with everything on , even at idle. Voltage range is 13.8 to14.3v even when transmitting at night.

My G3 came with a 175A fuse and the correct fat cable.
I am not a fan of active componets in the electrical system. Thus no breakers and as few relays as possible for other things like lights and blowers.
PaulW

robjs111 · Post by **robjs111** » Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:33 am

Anybody recommend a good reputable place to buy a new HO alternator for my Bronco?
Thanks.

guard · Post by **guard** » Tue Jun 25, 2013 2:40 pm

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/alternators

Jbfab · Post by **Jbfab** » Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:31 pm

I got my 3g alt from the junkyard. Was a newish replacement, still had a sticker on it. Cost me $10. Its not to often an alternator goes bad and they are cheap to rebuild or increase the amps.

Silverslk · Post by **Silverslk** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:39 pm

OK. I was at the night race this weekend and it sems my battery went bad (Optima). I got a jump to get home and noticed my Lowrance reading 14.2 V with Ac, headlights and radio all on. I swear this used to be 13.2-13.7V and with everything on at night 12.8-12.9V. Is my Alternator bad? I took it to Vatozone and it failed but the guy thought his cable wasn't making good connection. It showed 15.0 VDC output, "Lamp off- PASS" and "Lamp On- FAIL" what does that mean? If it is bad.... what should I replace it with? The stock 95 Amp could be better, no?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 6:26 am

15v is way too much for a battery. Your alt has some sort of regulator problem. 14.2 is the highest I like to see with 13.8 being perfect.

Silverslk · Post by **Silverslk** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 10:45 am

philofab wrote:15v is way too much for a battery. Your alt has some sort of regulator problem. 14.2 is the highest I like to see with 13.8 being perfect.

New alternator? Is the regulator servicable? If so, is it worth dealing with it? What OEM upgrades are available considering I have the 95A 3G, right?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 11:26 am

Silverslk wrote:
philofab wrote:15v is way too much for a battery. Your alt has some sort of regulator problem. 14.2 is the highest I like to see with 13.8 being perfect.
New alternator? Is the regulator servicable? If so, is it worth dealing with it? What OEM upgrades are available considering I have the 95A 3G, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-GR821- ... sbs_auto_1

This is one thing to try. The regulator has the brushed built in and is easy to change on a 3G. I would test the voltage sense wire first though.

Seabass · Post by **Seabass** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 3:01 pm

Any one on here found a rebuilt kit that includes winding for higher output? I have a core I'd like to play with if it makes sense money wise over buying someone elses wazooie rebuilt unit for mega ching.

PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 4:23 pm

Seabass wrote:Any one on here found a rebuilt kit that includes winding for higher output? I have a core I'd like to play with if it makes sense money wise over buying someone elses wazooie rebuilt unit for mega ching.

========
Let me help
Fireguy/Ryan sells a 200A unit the has diy diodes in a G3 frame The should fit any full size Bronco/F150.
Of course you can always overdrive with just a change in pulley. Same guy sells those.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/alternators
Are we on the same page? What is your need for huge output?
Here is more info

Review the pics & note the pic title. One is generic info from his site and the other is the dyno test for the one I bought. Mine is advertised as a 130a and it came out 169amps. Typical from others.
Sure beats the 95a my rig came with. Anybody want a perfectly excellent stock 95a one? New reg and bearings.

pw

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:01 pm

Seabass wrote:Any one on here found a rebuilt kit that includes winding for higher output? I have a core I'd like to play with if it makes sense money wise over buying someone elses wazooie rebuilt unit for mega ching.

A few people do... requires soldering with a gun (most irons don't get hot enough) for the rectifiers.

Seabass · Post by **Seabass** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:04 pm

I think I read on here that the 6 rib pulley can't handle 200 amps. Is that anything you guys have come across?

At idle my charging system is in a deficit. I have an isolated battery for a fridge that sees lots of discharging and not much time charging. would like to take care of that and make room for future upgrades as well. I will be adding an aux condensor fan. Possibly a parker pumper in an attempt at a fresh air system. Blower cooled tranny cooler sitting on my tool box waiting for motivation.

If I find a 130 van altenator when im hunting for my steering stuff I'll grab it for the right price. My thought process is if it costs close to the same to rebuild the junker I have in the garage with the rad parts I'd be a chump not to do it. I'll check out that link tonight. Thanks!

Seabass · Post by **Seabass** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:20 pm

Disregard that top question on my last post. It's answered on the link you gave me=)

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