Going fast in 1992 or 1993

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:38 pm

OK here goes. I'll apologize for any redundancy created by this post, and I have been reading my ass off, so please don't flame me. As it turns out I'm going to see a Client near Huntington Beach tomorrow, which should provide me a little extra time to visit Giant and Camburg for their thoughts on the subject.

At full buildout I'll probably go full bypass/coilover with a four link and all the toys on 37's. A/C and heat is mandatory, as are as many of the OE creature comforts as are permissable to this kind of build. I suppose this gets titled some kind of luxo-prerunner based on what I've seen coined elsewhere. We'll see if I can eventually afford that though.....

Job One is to locate the proper 92/93 foundation to prepare for NORRA next year. I like the later version and its attributes, the exterior of which can be adapted but not so easily on the inside. Realizing there luckily aren't too many different pieces and/or options for such a Bronco, helpful advice would include what NOT to buy. Can I assume the 5.8L is the proper thing to do, while the electronic 4x4 (AKA auto hubs?) is not?

It seems like "staging" the build is the thing to do where possible, starting with what can be bolted on for later sale when the hard core fabrication becomes necessary. I get it.....not entirely possible, and therefore my education is not yet complete enough to assemble a budget for this build without some advice and experience. That's where I hope some of you can share your experience with me.

So with all flaming aside, anyone care to share? I'll assume (and hope) this has been considered many times before.....don't mean to ask for a book of Bronco how-to. Happy to manufacture my own book from your brief comments and direction.

Thanks in advance!

Silverslk · Post by **Silverslk** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:05 pm

My only advice/opinion is I believe it will be hard to keep all comforts (AC etc) and run 37's without losing uptravel.

Agui-E7TE · Post by **Agui-E7TE** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:09 pm

5.8L is a good choice and you'll likely end up changing out the hub lockouts anyway so that shouldn't be an issue. As far as '92 -'93.. I think the '92 has a manual shift T-case while the '93 has the pushbutton t-case. As long as you get one that runs and drives in tip top shape and has no fluid leaks, you should be fine.

A few things to consider are upgrading the E4OD with the Punisher Valve Body.. a lot of the guys on here swear by it. If you're not sure if the timing chain has already been replaced, you'll likely want to get that squared away too. These trucks are solid and even when they succumb to mechanical failure they always seem to get you home safely.

Edit: Forgot to mention this.. I agree with Andy, keeping the AC with 37's is going to be a challenge. 37's tend to tear up the climate control and emissions equipment. 35's work really well but if you're set on 37's, make sure you keep the climate control box in mind.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:25 pm

Why a 92-93?

hobbyturnedobsession · Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:33 pm

Try a 94 + because of the roller motor and if you get a 96 some if not all are mass air flow. Camburg and Giant are good names but also check out baja Scott or Mark Keifer. They build some really good gear. 37's require alot of work as far as (I'd assume) going wider to clear you're a/c / heater box, re-inforcing the knuckle, and more. Can I ask why you want to 4 link it? I know I'm going to but remember, with an E4OD you're drive shaft is always the limiting factor. There isn't flaming here so don't worry. Also, remember budget. You're talking some pretty huge numbers especially with the shops you stated.

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:37 pm

Agui-E7TE wrote:5.8L is a good choice and you'll likely end up changing out the hub lockouts anyway so that shouldn't be an issue. As far as '92 -'93.. I think the '92 has a manual shift T-case while the '93 has the pushbutton t-case. As long as you get one that runs and drives in tip top shape and has no fluid leaks, you should be fine.

A few things to consider are upgrading the E4OD with the Punisher Valve Body.. a lot of the guys on here swear by it. If you're not sure if the timing chain has already been replaced, you'll likely want to get that squared away too. These trucks are solid and even when they succumb to mechanical failure they always seem to get you home safely.

Edit: Forgot to mention this.. I agree with Andy, keeping the AC with 37's is going to be a challenge. 37's tend to tear up the climate control and emissions equipment. 35's work really well but if you're set on 37's, make sure you keep the climate control box in mind.

Thank you for the items I'll put on my list. Based on what I've read, it seems you're both right on the 37's vs. A/C. Since the big rubber will come at the latter end of the build when I'm likely in pieces, I have some time to scratch my head and collect intel on this one.

Thanks again.

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:40 pm

Nick wrote:Why a 92-93?

1992 is when Ford did the last update to the newer interior/exterior, and 1993 will be the limit of the 20 year old vintage classes at NORRA in 2013.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:09 pm

Are you going to build a race truck, or a prerunner? Like it was mentioned in earlier posts, the 95-6 has upgrades that are very desirable. Not only to the motor, but the tansmission as well. I second Mark from Southwest Performance, and would also reccomend you talk to John at Autofab.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:10 pm

My trucks are vintage now!

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:15 pm

Is there a way to multi quote my replies? New to this site as you know and there's usually a buttom for both "quote" and "multi quote" on some sites.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:21 pm

not easily. I asked this question here: http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... =12&t=3278 and SteveG explained how he does it but I tried that once & it didn't work. I still go back & edit my posts to add the 2nd, 3rd, whatver quote and the reply.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:33 pm

1Hondalover wrote:Is there a way to multi quote my replies? New to this site as you know and there's usually a buttom for both "quote" and "multi quote" on some sites.

We're not that highfalutin yet...

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:13 pm

Do you really want to race? It seems to me people hamper the build of there toy trying to keep with in the rules to race and will probly not really race it. You say you want a luxury prerunner and you plan on racing it. They are 2 different animals.
Correct me if im wrong but I'm assuming you are a younger guy on a modest budget? I would highly recommend doing alot of research and look at what people are building and using. Its really easy to think you need to use the higher dollar parts when really you would problably be just as happy with a less expensive route.
Do you want to spend time building or driving? 18 months into my build now and I am starting to wish i kept it a simpler. Look at tcm glx build, I love that thing and it is a great balance of quality part and fab. I would rather have a well built leaf sprung bronco than a budget 4link anyday. E40d w/stock wheel base = 19" before the drive shaft taps out, 4link or leaf springs, unless you notch the frame and clearence the floor.

Just my $.02

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:22 pm

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Try a 94 + because of the roller motor and if you get a 96 some if not all are mass air flow. Camburg and Giant are good names but also check out baja Scott or Mark Keifer. They build some really good gear. 37's require alot of work as far as (I'd assume) going wider to clear you're a/c / heater box, re-inforcing the knuckle, and more. Can I ask why you want to 4 link it? I know I'm going to but remember, with an E4OD you're drive shaft is always the limiting factor. There isn't flaming here so don't worry. Also, remember budget. You're talking some pretty huge numbers especially with the shops you stated.

Not happy I'll apparently miss these updated mechanicals to stay NORRA legal.....hopefully I'll accomplish them with a new engine on the build list. Obvoiusly need a built trans to go with it. Any recommendations?

Mark is Southwest right? I've seen Scott on these forums a bunch but didn't know he was a shop. Where are these gentlemen located and contact info? Not sure I can afford Camburg or other big names but their product sure is nice. I can afford to wait for something deadly reliable that won't ruin a planned Baja romp though.

The 4 Link or something similar is just flat cool, and necessary to haul ass across the rough stuff. Race car no, though I'm sure some parts will end up being race car duty. Prerunner means A/C, heat, windshield wipers, power windows, a nice bracket(s) for the ice chest/parts/tools and enough battery to play my county music to the moon.

I am of course ready to accept one tradeoff or another because this is not going to be a $100K adventure.

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:36 pm

cs_drums wrote:Do you really want to race? It seems to me people hamper the build of there toy trying to keep with in the rules to race and will probly not really race it. You say you want a luxury prerunner and you plan on racing it. They are 2 different animals.
Correct me if im wrong but I'm assuming you are a younger guy on a modest budget? I would highly recommend doing alot of research and look at what people are building and using. Its really easy to think you need to use the higher dollar parts when really you would problably be just as happy with a less expensive route.
Do you want to spend time building or driving? 18 months into my build now and I am starting to wish i kept it a simpler. Look at tcm glx build, I love that thing and it is a great balance of quality part and fab. I would rather have a well built leaf sprung bronco than a budget 4link anyday. E40d w/stock wheel base = 19" before the drive shaft taps out, 4link or leaf springs, unless you notch the frame and clearence the floor.

Just my $.02

Remember the premise of NORRA is VINTAGE rally racing. I like it because my wife can navigate and we get to sleep in a hotel every night. I'm more intersted in the camraderie and a margarita than any trophy. Age unfortunately is passing me by.....we just graduated one son from high school and another from college. Luckily I married well, so I don't need approval to trade a nice Baja Bug, 2-1600 car and three bad ass Honda desert sleds for my budget start. The rest will alternate play-build-play-build etc.

Luckily with the age comes (at least some) sense of sensability, and a wife doesn't hurt either. I'm just a sponge here for the moment and I appreciate your cents to keep my sense in check.

Thanks!

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:44 pm

1Hondalover wrote: The 4 Link or something similar is just flat cool, and necessary to haul ass across the rough stuff.

Dang! I wish someone would have told me that before i did my truck. [end sarcasm]

There are a lot of us with leaf sprung trucks that scoot along at a nice pace. In my opinion, a linked truck is really not worth the money, unless you are going to stretch the wheelbase. Due to the stock wheelbase you will never see the full potential of a linked truck. If all you are after is the cool factor, then have at it.

BajaBronco13 · Post by **BajaBronco13** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:53 pm

Buy my 1986 Bronco and call it done, lol. I want to link my four door Bronco.

Chris

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:05 pm

BajaBronco13 wrote:Buy my 1986 Bronco and call it done, lol. I want to link my four door Bronco.

Chris

That is great option!

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:09 pm

Buying a Bronco that is already done or close to it will save you money.

Buy a cheap Bronco if your going to build it, in the end everything gets replaced/rebuild or cut off. 37s are going to need fiberglass and additional width. Manual t case is the way to go. Ignore ABS and motor sizes, as putting a 351w is easy and the brake system will all need to be redone. I'm well over 20K in parts/material after three years in use starting with a $500 Bronco. I'm not linked and caged yet and I've done all the labor myself.

1Hondalover · Post by **1Hondalover** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:17 pm

Nick wrote:Dang! I wish someone would have told me that before i did my truck. [end sarcasm]

There are a lot of us with leaf sprung trucks that scoot along at a nice pace. In my opinion, a linked truck is really not worth the money, unless you are going to stretch the wheelbase. Due to the stock wheelbase you will never see the full potential of a linked truck. If all you are after is the cool factor, then have at it.

Please remember that Sarcasm is Flame's ugly cousin Nick.....now mine too is over.

Using the "staged" build I described at the beginning, Deavers or whatever works best will definitely be the beginning I'm sure. How long I can hang with it will depend on how fast it can safely and controllably go. Unfortunately I'm spoiled by many years of a bypassed psuedo-Class 5 car in the deserts and Baja. "Full potential" may likely be something like the tropies I no longer want, and you may be right.....I may find a "linkless" solution that works just great.

Working through these things is part of the fun isn't it?