Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:11 pm

Passenger side is almost done. I need to get some tear drop gussets cut like the one shown and add a little piece of 1"x.250 DOM to the upper shock mount so I can run a longer bolt/shank and reinforce it a little bit. Maybe weld it up too....

only1mikey · Post by **only1mikey** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:33 pm

Loving it philo!

Mike

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:58 am

Philo,
Your fab works is looking good... as aways!

johncharlesb · Post by **johncharlesb** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:13 am

BajaF250 wrote:Philo,
Your fab works is looking good... as always!

X2

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 10:55 am

Loving it Philo! Can't wait to see more.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:03 pm

Finally started the other side. Still need to do the lower mounts, the support bar to the cross member, and cross bar to the other side, and redo all the brake lines.

The brake lines should be fun. Getting rid of that worthless ABS pump is a lot of work... most of the lines have to be replaced. Going to go to -3 AN lines and run them up the radius arm. Should end up with 4 identical -3 braided lines and hard lines everywhere else. Then I can carry one -3 line and one -3 cap as a backup.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:41 pm

Just measured travel on the drivers side.... 17". Looks like I will need to clearance the frame a little just behind the steering box at the top. The coil just barely kisses it at full shock extension. I have not drooped both sides yet to see if the u-joint gets angry. I have my up travel limited on both sides to save the A/C box, stop excessive negative camber on the passenger side, and give the ECM some clearance. I also found the nut for the upper left (driver) side radius arm bolt has come loose from the beams so next time I have it apart it will need to be welded back in.

tcm glx · Post by **tcm glx** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:24 pm

philofab wrote:Just measured travel on the drivers side.... 17". Looks like I will need to clearance the frame a little just behind the steering box at the top. The coil just barely kisses it at full shock extension. I have not drooped both sides yet to see if the u-joint gets angry. I have my up travel limited on both sides to save the A/C box, stop excessive negative camber on the passenger side, and give the ECM some clearance. I also found the nut for the upper left (driver) side radius arm bolt has come loose from the beams so next time I have it apart it will need to be welded back in.

Looking good Philo, just out of curiosity, what were you pulling travel wise with your other coil buckets?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:30 pm

tcm glx wrote:Looking good Philo, just out of curiosity, what were you pulling travel wise with your other coil buckets?

Without the coil in there it did 16" with the 10" shock. However I figure with the coil it never saw both ends of travel.... I think it coil bound on compression and some of the droop was lost from the coil not extending all the way. I never ran bump stops or straps with the Camburg buckets. It was probably around 13-14" real world.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:51 pm

Anyone know if the factory MC is rear/rear front/front on the line setup? Also, is that small fitting adapter thing on the rear port of the MC a residual for the drums?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:57 pm

Built a cross bar... still need to cut it and install tube disconnects. Also picked up some brake stuff...

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:27 pm

Started on the brake lines. 10" -3 hoses in four places. The rest will be hard line. I should be able to carry one 10" -3 hose and a -3 cap for spares. If I can't repair it with a new hose I can just cap the wheel and still have three brakes that work.

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:23 pm

philofab wrote:Started on the brake lines. 10" -3 hoses in four places. The rest will be hard line. I should be able to carry one 10" -3 hose and a -3 cap for spares. If I can't repair it with a new hose I can just cap the wheel and still have three brakes that work.

Sounds like a great plan... that's what I do... thank heavens I haven't had to use any of it yet, but it's always good to have the backup!

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:25 pm

philofab wrote:Built a cross bar... still need to cut it and install tube disconnects. Also picked up some brake stuff...

Looking really good Philo!

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:41 pm

BajaF250 wrote:Sounds like a great plan... that's what I do... thank heavens I haven't had to use any of it yet, but it's always good to have the backup!

I'm hoping they are protected enough that I won't ever need them. The brake lines are less than $9 each so it won't be a big deal if I do. The solid line will run on the top of the radius arm, then go to another braided line to connect to the frame. Once it gets to the frame it will run inside the c-channel like factory. I haven't decided where to put the bias knob... I'm thinking on top of the frame rail so I can reach in the fender well to adjust it... I doubt I'll need to once it's set though.

Post by **SteveG** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:19 pm

Having a few spots where you can cap a corner off is nice, too. In case you can't fix a brake issue in the field....

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:45 pm

philofab wrote:
BajaF250 wrote:Sounds like a great plan... that's what I do... thank heavens I haven't had to use any of it yet, but it's always good to have the backup!
I'm hoping they are protected enough that I won't ever need them. The brake lines are less than $9 each so it won't be a big deal if I do. The solid line will run on the top of the radius arm, then go to another braided line to connect to the frame. Once it gets to the frame it will run inside the c-channel like factory. I haven't decided where to put the bias knob... I'm thinking on top of the frame rail so I can reach in the fender well to adjust it... I doubt I'll need to once it's set though.

I haven't really messed with my bias once I set it... I really don't need to adjust it.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:44 pm

Got a little more done...

only1mikey · Post by **only1mikey** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:49 pm

Keep the pics coming.

I want to do the rad arm brake setup eventually. I did it like that on my old ranger, just have to get around do it.

Mike

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:49 am

Installed the Motorola radio from Tony. We'll see how it works this weekend in Plaster City.

Also got the front end far enough to be useable. Still need to do straps and rebuild the shocks. I may have to change a coil out to get it a little lower too. May try a 14x300 on top instead of the 350 that on there.

Steering and widening the front are next on the list. I still need to gusset the engine cage and install tube disconnects on the cross bar.

Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"