Brian's '96

Post by **SteveG** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 4:44 pm

Nope. I'm just talking out of my ass. Maybe Kritter can help.

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:26 pm

Do you have any shims at all? Or, is it all pintle valving?

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:44 pm

BajaF250 wrote:Do you have any shims at all? Or, is it all pintle valving?

I'm shimless...er....the shocks are shimless. Just bypass tubes.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 11:06 pm

Not sure you could fit shims in there. Spring loaded balls alla Works performance maybe.........

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:36 am

yikes wrote:
BajaF250 wrote:Do you have any shims at all? Or, is it all pintle valving?
I'm shimless...er....the shocks are shimless. Just bypass tubes.

Do they perform as expected? They sure look like a pain to rebuild... but the adjustablility must be phenomenal... Damn B... can't wait to see your Bronco... really looking forward to it...

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:18 am

BajaF250 wrote:
yikes wrote:
BajaF250 wrote:Do you have any shims at all? Or, is it all pintle valving?
I'm shimless...er....the shocks are shimless. Just bypass tubes.
Do they perform as expected? They sure look like a pain to rebuild... but the adjustablility must be phenomenal... Damn B... can't wait to see your Bronco... really looking forward to it...

They work great....in the Pismo sand. Haha! Rebound is just too slow and they seem to stack up in tight whoops. Can't seem to get the front up on top. That could be lack of HP! I'm actually thinking that just drilling a few small bleed holes may do the trick. They're certainly not tapped out on the compression side and maybe it would help on square edges?? It would certainly rebound quicker. Oh! and they work great on street whoops. Nick will back me up on that. Haha!

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:09 am

Bleeds should be easy. Just tap for an Allen screw in case you need to block them up.

What does the piston look like in these?

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 12:28 pm

philofab wrote:Bleeds should be easy. Just tap for an Allen screw in case you need to block them up.

What does the piston look like in these?

It's round and has 6 holes in it. Haha! But that's about it. Plenty of land for bleeds.

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 12:29 pm

Thinking #8-32. Bigger? smaller?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 12:39 pm

yikes wrote:Thinking #8-32. Bigger? smaller?

#6 or #8 is where I would start. I forget what SAW 2.5" pistons have, but it's one of those. I would try two #6 open to start.

BajaF250 · Post by **BajaF250** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:25 pm

philofab wrote:Bleeds should be easy. Just tap for an Allen screw in case you need to block them up.

What does the piston look like in these?

Ditto on Philo's call... definintely drill and tap... easy way to go and adds the adjustabilility. I'd go #6 and go from there... if the #8 is too big, it's tough to go smaller...

Post by **SteveG** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:07 pm

BajaF250 wrote:Do they perform as expected? They sure look like a pain to rebuild...

They're actually pretty easy to service. It's the handling and lugging around that's a pain in the ass!

philofab wrote:What does the piston look like in these?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:16 pm

Oh wow, lots of room for free bleeds or one way valves. The piston looks thick enough to machine for a checkball, spring, and larger set screw with a bleed in it. Super cheap way to make a one way valve.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:22 pm

Free bleeds are all low speed damping. With the design of those shocks I wouldn't think too much low speed would be a problem. What you might be seeing is that in order to get the thing to not feel like a sloppy pig you screw in the adjusters and run into high speed problems. Running stiffer check valve spring might allow you to open up the mid stroke tubes with out the low speed getting out of control.

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:00 pm

She's sloppy for sure. Front and rear.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:16 pm

I wonder if you could fit a small shim pack between the bypass tubes on that.... looks like enough room for rebound shims.

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:18 am

yikes wrote:She's sloppy for sure. Front and rear.

Front and rear rebound bleed should be near inexistent...

I have a .032" bleed hole solely to ease assembly and the reb bypass is closed shut. Pulling the shafts out without nitrogen in them is a mo fo. I still think the rear is sloppy set up like this but hopefully I fix that soon.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:52 am

shockseals.com wrote:
yikes wrote:She's sloppy for sure. Front and rear.

Front and rear rebound bleed should be near inexistent...

Except for all the leakage between the tubes and the piston.

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Tue Jul 26, 2011 12:29 pm

BDKW1 wrote:
shockseals.com wrote:
yikes wrote:She's sloppy for sure. Front and rear.

Front and rear rebound bleed should be near inexistent...
Except for all the leakage between the tubes and the piston.

Wearband/bore leakage? Non issue.

When piston passes bypass port...not an issue at anyplace other then 1" from full hang, and 1.5" from full bump and in those locations bleed isnt important to me.

im not traditional with bypass tubes...I prefer to use them solely for directional bleed adjustments most of the time, not position sensitivity so I only need 2.

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:24 pm

Well sh!t!! I can't believe this actually happened, but the rebound bypass adjuster broke on one of the shocks as I was turning the set screw. I've never forced the things either. Can't seem to catch a break.

Anyway. Next problem. How much end play should there be in the tail shaft on the t-case? Don't remember there being much before, but it has around .06 or so. Maybe I'm just paranoid?

Brian's '96

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