Bronco Brake upgrade options

[shockseals.com]

Anybody have expereince playing with piston area on rear calipers and the stock master/booster set up? Any input would be appreciated.

[BDKW1]

On a Bronco no. Ranger and Cheby yes. The Ranger with a stock MC and Wilwood 4 piston caliper (1.75 pistons) Stops like dream with 35's and 12.19 rotors. Pedal is almost a little on the touchy side.

Cheby has stock MC, CNC 6 pistons on 13" rotors and 37's. Same deal, will lock the tires with ease on the pavement.

Stick with the harder compound pads and you will have a good set-up.

[shockseals.com]

On a Bronco no. Ranger and Cheby yes. The Ranger with a stock MC and Wilwood 4 piston caliper (1.75 pistons) Stops like dream with 35's and 12.19 rotors. Pedal is almost a little on the touchy side.

Cheby has stock MC, CNC 6 pistons on 13" rotors and 37's. Same deal, will lock the tires with ease on the pavement.

Stick with the harder compound pads and you will have a good set-up.

Thanks Barge, 1.75 pistons was the Baja Mike answer as well.

Any reason to go .81 rotors over 1.25 wide? The weight isnt an issue and the price diff is $6. Caliper for 1.25 is $20 cheaper.

[BDKW1]

1.25 rotors seem to have more of a selection in mounting patterns and rotor styles. I believe they are cheaper too. Don't get the regular Wilwoods, they tend to shatter on a heavy truck. Get the HD units. Jesse blew 3? before he uprgaded the Cheby.

[shockseals.com]

1.25 rotors seem to have more of a selection in mounting patterns and rotor styles. I believe they are cheaper too. Don't get the regular Wilwoods, they tend to shatter on a heavy truck. Get the HD units. Jesse blew 3? before he uprgaded the Cheby.

I will ask the brand at kartek...8 on 7" cone hats/hubs are what I have.

[Seattle FSB]

I just pulled the trigger on the ABS Power Brake Electric Master Cylinder with Accumulator for my Bronco which is currently running factory front Disc Brakes along with Explorer Rear Disc Brakes on a new Currie 9" Rear. Not much more than a new Hydro Boost Kit.

I am still interested in the 4-piston Toyota Calipers for my 15" wheels. Any more information?

See this link: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=185904

Video of Stacey David showing the ABS System.
http://www.abspowerbrake.com/copperhead_640.html

[PaulW]

I now have about 2500 miles on mine - about 70% on the B1k track or equal.
Observations:
*Not much improvement over a stock fully functioning Vac booster. Does not compare with a PS pump Hydroboost, but packaging is way better and the steer/brake functions are now seperate, a real good thing.
*The pump runs every time I push the brakes. My conclusion is the accumulator is way to small.
*Had to do a trial & error fix for the res fluid level to get rid of the brake warning light. Initially I still got an intermittant light, But the last 1000 miles on the bad roads the light has stayed off.
*Had to make a custom mount since the push rod they sent was way to long.

Same kind of issues most of us have had for the rest of the custom items we like to use.
Paul

[Seattle FSB]

ABS Electric High Power Master Install









The ideal location for the Pump and Accumulator was tucked along the drivers side forward inside frame rail. This is almost directly below the Master Cylinder. Since my new Currie F9 no longer has Rear Anti-lock Brakes, the ABS Valve was removed and the new Pump and Accumulator were installed in it's location. Perfect, as it is both fairly well protected and accessible. Also, the integral pressure switch and relay came pre-wired, requiring only a ground, a battery connection and a keyed ignition connection.

I had to have a bracket made to support the Lokar Dipstick. It worked out very well as it is now even more visible and accessible than when it was hidden behind the old Master Cylinder.

My initial impression of the Electric Brake Booster is that it is awesome! I can stop on a dime with change to spare. This is way better than my F250 with Hydroboost. I do note that the brake pedal is very firm with minimal movement compared to my previous Vacuum Booster, probably due to the Master Cylinder 1 3/16" bore. The pump can be heard when stopped, but not when driving and it seems to cycle on after every third brake application. Pump cycle time is approximately 1.5 seconds.


For clarification, there are two different Universal Master Cylinders that you can get. The Standard and the 7-Feature.

I chose the dual circuit Standard Master Cylinder for it's simplicity, larger reservoir and full control over rear brake proportioning. It was not fully clear to me what options were available from their web-site and upon ordering. I now wish that I had the brake fluid float switch, which is no longer connected to my Brake Warning Light. The harness was left unplugged and since it is normally an open circuit, I do not get a Brake Warning Light. I will just have to check the brake fluid level when I do my regular fluid checks.

The smaller 7-Feature system also comes with the remote hydraulic pump/accumulator and the ability to mount the Master Cylinder anywhere. The dual circuit system comes with a 3-function internal combination valve which combines metering valve, proportioning valve and brake light warning switch (float switch). It can also come with a remote fill reservoir and a brake light switch, if required.

In essence, the main difference appears to be the internal proportioning valve and float switch in a smaller more compact Master Cylinder. The 7-Feature system, although having a smaller brake fluid reservoir, seems pretty cool and requires less plumbing.

My install was made easy due to specifying my specific year Bronco, which ABS Power Brake was more than happy to provide the specific mounting bracket and proper length brake pedal actuating rod. As PaulW previously stated, you will have to add in a tee for a Cruise Control Pressure Switch if you have one. My 1990 Cruise Control cancellation is vacuum operated by a brake pedal switch, so no need in my case.

The point is to fully evaluate your needs and ask "what can I get" instead of "what will I get" when ordering your system.


See more pics at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthr ... ost2528424 or at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20487/75110.

[1Hondalover]

You don't have to have an aftermarket knuckle to put aftermarket calipers on. You can cut the factory mounts off of the knuckle and weld a bracket to the spindle itself. I remember seeing pics on Race-Dezert years ago but I don't remember the poster or thread.

from: http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showth ... ot-Spacing

Just saw this picture and it looks like a pretty cool solution. Has anyone here gone to big discs and calipers lately using this method?

[1Hondalover]

Thinking about bigger brakes for our Phase 2 next Summer.....keeping a 17" wheel and would really like to use OE Ford parts.....I see that a 2006 E150 van has some good size rear discs with dual piston calipers. Other than the slide mounting which may be difficult to fab on to the 9", anyone see downside to these pieces as a rear disc install from the drums? I know they're "heavy" in comparison to the fancier Wilwood and others, but I'm more interested in the ability to buy replacement parts of the shelf halfway down the peninsula than the few less pounds of unsprung weight.

2006 E150 specs.JPG (187.6 KiB) Viewed 2111 times

[philofab]

Just saw this picture and it looks like a pretty cool solution. Has anyone here gone to big discs and calipers lately using this method?

My brackets can be welded on like that. I ended up making a doubler plate that bolts over the spindle to make the bracket bolt on. I used PBR Aluminum 2003 Cobra calipers for the same reasons, so parts are easily obtainable. I haven't assembled the rear yet but I used F-body PBR calipers, the only down side is they don't have a parking brake, I built one on the transfer case output. I think there are photos on my Bronco thread.

[tcm glx]

Just saw this picture and it looks like a pretty cool solution. Has anyone here gone to big discs and calipers lately using this method?

My brackets can be welded on like that. I ended up making a doubler plate that bolts over the spindle to make the bracket bolt on. I used PBR Aluminum 2003 Cobra calipers for the same reasons, so parts are easily obtainable. I haven't assembled the rear yet but I used F-body PBR calipers, the only down side is they don't have a parking brake, I built one on the transfer case output. I think there are photos on my Bronco thread.

Did you finish that front setup Philo?

[1Hondalover]

Just saw this picture and it looks like a pretty cool solution. Has anyone here gone to big discs and calipers lately using this method?

My brackets can be welded on like that. I ended up making a doubler plate that bolts over the spindle to make the bracket bolt on. I used PBR Aluminum 2003 Cobra calipers for the same reasons, so parts are easily obtainable. I haven't assembled the rear yet but I used F-body PBR calipers, the only down side is they don't have a parking brake, I built one on the transfer case output. I think there are photos on my Bronco thread.

I see the discussion and pictures that begin on page 23 of your thread Philo. It doesn't seem like you've completed the intent there.....or maybe you have yet to post the finished product? It seems like a laser cut bracket to fit on the 5 or 6 spindle studs would be the way to go. I assume one would have to fit a particular caliper and rotor.

D44 TTB big caliper bracket.jpg (71.45 KiB) Viewed 2127 times

[cs_drums]

Couple buddies have done this. Don't remember if it welded on or sandwiched between spindle and knuckle

[philofab]

Couple buddies have done this. Don't remember if it welded on or sandwiched between spindle and knuckle

You can't sandwich between without causing axle length issues on 4wd. We're they 2wd?

[Rmc]

It's a bad idea to sandwich the caliper bracket cause the snouts shear load is transferred to the knuckle via the snout shoulder. The bolts carry little shear load, the snout flange is supposed to bear it's force.

[1Hondalover]

Does anyone have a finished project using this mount? Can we get a consensus here? Now that I think about it RMC is right.....pushing the spindle further out on the studs with the caliper mount "spacer" would weaken the assembly. If axle mods are necessary on the 4x4 to use the spacer version then it seems moot anyway. Did you ever wrap yours up Philo?

So......using the welded solution.....who has a kit for sale to get big brakes on my beams?

[philofab]

My Bronco is barely a roller. I'd have to pull it apart to get photos and I'm busy trying to get ready for the swap meet and other stuff.

[cs_drums]

He must have put it on the outside of the spindle and I misunderstood. I will see if I can get some pics. I know he has a season of prerunning and 1 or 2 races on the set up.

[cs_drums]

A bolt on caliper bracket is how all the old chevy d44 stuff was. This is how guys convert to 8lug d44, swapping spindle out from chevy and cutting the ears off the ford knuckle

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410453017.755329.jpg (135.85 KiB) Viewed 2056 times