"Blanc-Oh!", my distraction

[ntsqd]

Pretty sure that is what the box said on the last one that failed.

I've read on one page that it isn't the TPS itself that fails, it is the connector. Not sure how legitimate that is since I've only found that said in one place.

Top-Tip: Use Hylomar on the Throttle Body gasket. Then you don't destroy it pulling the TB loose to get at the TPS.

[SteveG]

When I'm splitting sealing surfaces and hope to reuse the gasket, I typically crack the bolts loose, then give the throttle body (in this example) a few light taps with a hammer in a few different directions to get the throttle body to move on the gasket and break it free... works well most of the time. Other times, it doesn't! Ha!

[ntsqd]

Where's the "Like" button?

[SteveG]

You doggin' on the decades old forum software?

[ntsqd]

Nope, not me. Just liking what you posted.












DECADES?!?!?!?

[ntsqd]

I had the fabled part break, had to roll down the window to open the door. Bought a set of the billet door handles. Dang, but those are cold when it's cold outside! As an experiment I slide some large adhesive lined heat-shrink down over the grip area and that's a LOT better. Wondering if anyone has done something similar and what it was?

[Becks_Bronco]

That's a great idea on the heat shrink! I've noticed my Bille handles get cold too, but I've never had it bother me enough to do anything out it.

I used to put baby mittens on my Hurst shift ball in my last car, as it would get blazing hot in the summer.

[ntsqd]

I've got one done, need to do the other and install it.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Funny story. I have a 97 cclb ford with a big block. This truck has been perfect. Except the iac has to be unplugged because itll high idle. I have been told a failing tps connector can cause the same problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ntsqd]

No idea how it is to get at the TPS on a 460. It's seriously stupid on the 5.8L. It's like they deliberately made it 500X more difficult than it needed to be.

If you can find one, buy an OEM TPS. The common, used to be good aftermarket brands aren't so much any more.

[ntsqd]

The OBA compressor quit cycling during the drive back from a week in NV. It also failed the copper tube that I'm using as an after-cooler of sorts. That wasn't a surprise, I didn't have the correct tube nuts when I put it together just before the trip. Tested each of the components and they all work when not in the system. The contactor is a bit difficult to test, but I could hear it clicking when I cycled the by-pass switch. Put it all back together and the compressor doesn't come on. I'm also not hearing the contactor close. In the process of taking things apart to test them I realized that the mount for the tank wasn't holding up and I needed to figure out something different for it.
Now that it's all back together, with the right type of tube nuts on the after-cooler tube, the contactor is not easy to remove. I have a GV241BAB contactor to use to replace the GV200 (Tesla part) that I used on the first pass. The GV241 is rated 400V, 800A, so it will probably work OK for a 3/4HP 12VDC compressor motor. It claims to be mountable in any position, but the GV200 is laid on it's side and I can't help but wonder if that caused the problem. I think that I'll put the right connector on the GV241 and try it before going to the significant trouble of removing the GV200 contactor.

[ntsqd]

Finally got back around to the OBA system. Poked and prodded with a DVOM in hand and discovered that the reason that compressor isn't running is because the BLEM stamped 'house battery' has finally died. It's a Group 65, the decision is: replace it with another liquid lead-acid (~$250), a generic AGM (~$300), or an Odyssey AGM (~$400) like the starting battery?

[ntsqd]

The 'house' battery died. Dead, it's flat dead. I put a Deka AGM in there in it's place. Presto! Everything works again.

House battery was the one in the truck when I bought it. PO told not to expect too much from it as it was old when I bought it. When I put an Odyssey in the starting battery location I move the "BLEM" stamped battery to the 'House' location. Got another ~6 years out of it. It really didn't owe me anything!

[ntsqd]

I keep hoping that the ABS warning light will burn out. I didn't really want to disassemble the dash to remove it. No luck so far......

[SteveG]

I keep hoping that the ABS warning light will burn out. I didn't really want to disassemble the dash to remove it. No luck so far......

Ha! Same here but still no luck

[Becks_Bronco]

What loads does your house battery run? Lithium would be my first choice because of weight and size savings.

[ntsqd]

All of the added-on electrical/electronics. Race radio(s), fridge, charge ports, GPS, OBA, etc.

I already had both the ACR and the battery bank switch from a project they weren't used on, and the battery that recently crapped out as it was the starting battery when I bought the truck. Li would have been a much more spendy option then. Even now to do it right is a significant investment and from a connections perspective it less than ideal to self jump-start or help run the winch.

For our camper I've been noodling about how to always charge a LFP battery with the correct profile regardless of the charge source (solar, alt. or 120VAC charger) while still using the solar to float the AGM starting batteries.

[GoFastBroncos.com]

Where's the "Like" button?

Oh, another old school tip… while it’s apart, spray gaskets with WD-40… it soaks in and they swell a bit

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Where's the "Like" button?

Oh, another old school tip… while it’s apart, spray gaskets with WD-40… it soaks in and they swell a bit

Grease works on one side of the gasket too! Itll help seal to the mating surface too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ntsqd]

My HS Auto Shop instructor was big on using a thin smear of white lithium grease on one surface of frequently R&R'd gaskets like rocker cover gaskets.

I used Hylomar on both faces of the throttle body gasket.