Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember

[TrevorPiggott]

We are located up by Sacramento,CA (City of Folsom to be specific)

[TPiggott]

How tough is it to relocate the perches ourselves? We have access to a shop where we can use the necessary equipment. Would you just cut the perch's off, then put everything back together (loosely), rotate the rear end until your pinion angle is correct, then weld them in place? Also, I have heard stories about rear ends warping when you weld to them. Any concerns there?

[hobbyturnedobsession]

I had a shop do mine, but the way I heard it, jack up the bronco, cut the old ones off, line up the new ones in the same location only do not weld them, put a jack under the yolk with the drive line hooked up. Make sure the leaf springs are placed into the perch correct. Jack up the yolk until the angle is correct. Weld in. I'm sure someone else knows more but thats the jist of it. If your welding and its getting that hot, thats an issue. If your that scared, I'd lay wet rags on either side to keep it as cool as possible. Usually it takes quite a bit to get the tubes that hot.

[1971Ford]

This is Trevor's brother. There is a new vibration going on ever since the swap a couple days ago. It happens at 25-30mph, can't feel it slower than that and can't feel it faster than that. To me it almost just feels like blown out shocks (pretty much what it has now, rancho's that i had but need a rebuild).
Could it possibly be pinion angle? I don't think so but it's a possibility...

Just a cheap mig. not good for anything over 1/8"

Hey now, It's a Miller it's just not 220v.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Hmm, is it doing it under load? Sometimes that can be caused by axle wrap..... Mine did it at 25-30 and then at 65+. I know that axle wrap isn't uncommon with these springs because of the low spring rate. I think that its different for everyone.

[philofab]

Don't worry about warping the tubes... it will minimize it if you just weld a few inches and let it cool, then repeat. if your really worried run a bead on the opposite side of the tube to counter act it.

[Polarcub]

That is the mph range mine had the most noticeable vibration. I first had my drive shaft rebalanced and U joints replaced to be sure. As soon as the wedges were reinstalled adjusting the pinion angle the vibration was gone.
WRT wheel wrap, I experienced quite abit with aggressive tires (krawlers) and the factory block. Once i got rid of the block most of it went away.
Doing the new perches is not that tough. Do it as you already described, the only thing I would add is to tighten your ubolts up once you have the pinion set with the jack and then tack the perches in place. After that drop the axle and finish up the welds. We did not have a warping issue and I doubt you would with the perches. If you were welding a full truss in I could see it being more of a concern. As Philo said weld a few inches say one side of the perch and then move to the other side and then come back. To the first one to finish up.

[tcm glx]

WRT wheel wrap, I experienced quite abit with aggressive tires (krawlers) and the factory block. Once i got rid of the block most of it went away.

Get a 2 Link on there, and you will notice the difference Jeremy! Serious difference, that you would not know till you tried.

[Polarcub]

WRT wheel wrap, I experienced quite abit with aggressive tires (krawlers) and the factory block. Once i got rid of the block most of it went away.

Get a 2 Link on there, and you will notice the difference Jeremy! Serious difference, that you would not know till you tried.

You paying for it.....LOL Someday haha

[biggiek]

So I just put on the J40's with the Camburg shackles and the rear is sitting about an 3/4 inch or so lower than the front. Any ideas on what it will take to level out? The axle I bought had spring perches rewelded and appears no vibration.

[RyanDS650X]

Are the springs brand new?

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[biggiek]

No

[RyanDS650X]

Sounds like the springs are hammered... what is on the front end? I have j40 and camburg shackles also and deaver 5.5s upfront and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front when empty.

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[biggiek]

Front is Solo beams with 4 inch lift coils. I got them from a member here and appear to be in great shape. It could be the spring perches and the way they were rewelded for all I know. After doing the front the rear did sit lower with the old spring (add a leaf style) but with these installed it did bring up the overall rear ride height. Not the end of the world but getting it leveled would be great.

[biggiek]

I think I found my issue..... I ground off some of the cross member for clearance for the shackle yet it appears the two appear to be sandwiched together. I cut off all I could while under there and it cleared but then again it was unloaded. The body mounts are shot and sagging a good inch plus in some area so I assume that is the issue.... now time to find someone to replace them as I am not up for that chore. Any ideas on whom to take it to locally? Is rubber or poly mounts better?

[RyanDS650X]

I know a guy and he is mobile. Let me know if you want his info.

[biggiek]

Sure I will take it. I assume you have used him?

[RyanDS650X]

I have used him many times. He was one of the riders of record at this years Baja1000 that we placed 3rd in Pro Quad. Hes a good dude, just did the timing belt and water pump in the wifes honda Pilot this tuesday and has done many other services for me over the years.
His name is Tristan Jones tell him i sent you.
https://www.facebook.com/azmobilecardr/

[biggiek]

So I got a friend to help replace the mounts and it alleviated the situation but the rear is still squatting a tad. Would adding a shim under the spring pack raise it and keep the pinion angle in the correct orientation? Just trying to get ideas before moving forward.

[JonMac31]

Hi biggiek,

I just did the same thing (add J40's with Camburg shackles). I ran into the same problem with the shackles rubbing that cross member. My plan to fix that is just cut what is needed for it to cycle cleanly.
Right now I also have a bad pinion angle, and serious vibrations. I am welding new perches on with the corrected pinion angle to fix this.

I have deaver 5.5" spring up front (used, unsprung are about 20" instead of 22") with Bilstein 10" 7100s.
The rear now has deaver J40s with camburg shackles. I am sitting pretty level as is. I might sit just a tad bit lower in the rear but that is okay. Really it just depends on your preference. Some like the rear to sit 1/2" lower than the front, some like it raised higher due to the fact when you add a load it sags it giving you that level look.

To answer your question, I would think it depends on the shim. I think adding the shim would raise the truck, however, depending on the degree of the shim it could screw up pinion angle.
Remember also that a longer shackle means it will lower the ride height of your truck also, and since you have the Camburg shackles in place, that is also lowering your height. At least that is what I have been told? Experts feel free to correct me. I am still new to the GoFast realm!