rear axles

[baja-chris]

Why not just use a 10.25" and do the same thing for around the same price?

One thing to keep in mind with the 10.25" is the longer pinion cuts down on driveshaft length and broncos are already travel limited by the short driveshafts (if you care about plunge, angles, and high rpm reliability). Also the 10.25" hangs a bit lower than some other choices.

[philofab]

I wonder how much if he leaves the stock brakes on it.

x2 ... plus re-gear and 6 inches wider than stock.

3" wider, or 1.5" per side. Most have 4.11 factory.

[yikes]

Why not just use a 10.25" and do the same thing for around the same price?

One thing to keep in mind with the 10.25" is the longer pinion cuts down on driveshaft length and broncos are already travel limited by the short driveshafts (if you care about plunge, angles, and high rpm reliability). Also the 10.25" hangs a bit lower than some other choices.

Agreed Chris; however, if someone is building an 8.8, they probably aren't planning to push too hard in the rough stuff. It seems the 10.25 would be all the more reliable for a 17" travel mildly built rig. Sure, it hangs lower, but it seems the benefit of the big centersection would be reliability for lot's of hard miles. It would also handle towing duty better. Not to mention the pinion nut issue on the 8.8. They're notorious for coming loose.

[philofab]

My F250 has a long pinion 10.25 and has had 35s or 37s for the last 100k miles. All I have done is change the fluid once. The truck has a mild big block and is very heavy.

If your concerned about drive shaft length you need a 9" as it gives you 1.5" over a 8.8.

[David Kennedy]

When I bought my Bronco with 141,000 miles on it, the original owner had already rebuilt the factory 8.8-inch axle twice. And he never had more than 32-inch tall tires on the truck! I was considering putting a 9-inch under it, but for the cost of what I'd want, I couldn't justify the price. So i decided to bolt in a 10.5-inch 14-bolt rear axle in my Bronco.

These axles have 1.5-inch axle shafts, full-floating wheel hubs, three pinion bearings (like a Ford 9-inch), 3 3/8-inch diameter, 1/2-inch wall axle tubes, and a 10 1/2-inch ring gear. I equipped mine with 12 1/2-inch disc brakes, 4.88 gears, a 1410-series pinion yoke, and an ARB Air Locker. As an added bonus, replacement parts for this axle are available at any Autozone.

[Ian]

Its about time you started chiming in David. What about your 50 conversion you where working on in the front to match that 8 lug pattern in the rear, you diesel nut? Are you going to get that thing out for the Heavy Metal Weekend this year or are you drivin the CRD again?

[David Kennedy]

The Dana 50 differential is in and done. But I'll likely be back at Pismo this year in a diesel--cause that's what pays the bills. If I still have the Bronco in September i'll bring it up there.

How is your non-diesel project coming?

[ChaseTruck754]

So after looking at the floater housing I had for the ranger that I had planned to use on the Supercab it is a bit narrower than stock. I had been thinking a bunch before about possibly stepping up to a fabricated 9" the idea of a corp 14 bolt in the truck is somewhat growing on me - for multiple reasons.

Since I got my last 14b for free and they are cheap to find parts for I'm sure even with custom hubs (want to stay 5x5.5 on this truck as I have about 25+ alcoas in that pattern ) it can be done cheaper than a fabricated 9". In looking into this (I have just started) I have found a couple issues. 1 - these hubs are the only ones I've found in 5x5.5 and they NARROW up the track width. Even though it is only 2" which may be good for the bronco guys maybe - not what I want.
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc ... ategory=11

Another few minutes of searching before hitting the "submit" button here landed me on this gem from the archives of RDC...
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/archiv ... 14545.html 4th post from the bottom gives me some hope and makes me realize there are guys here who have done this before.

I'm tempted to do this for cost measures as my truck is supposedly a budget project... BUT, in my usual fashion I have another, completely opposite end of the spectrum idea. I have found a "used" (new, never mounted but at used price) tubeworks rear that is complete for about $3k. Guy says he spent $8k+ on it and it has 300m, 35 spline axles many of the parts I want and is the right width. While this is more than I was really looking to spend I'm very tempted to grab it and call this fiasco done.

Thoughts?

[philofab]

Thoughts?

Best bang for the buck is a sterling 10.25.

Used rear from a JY: $200
Gears: $180-$225 with install kit
Detroit: $673.47
35 Spline Currie/Moser Axles with bearings $425
Used 9" Drum brakes $50
Billet large bearing ends $75
Ford finned aluminum gear cover $50
1 Gallon of synthetic oil $75

Leaf spring perches match up and it's 68" from WMS/WMS

Build it for 1773.47. This would be an almost indestructible rear with small block power. The weak point would be the semi floating axles. You could probably have the stock hubs welded and re drilled for 5x5.5 if your wheel have a large enough center hole. A stock Sterling will take 37" tires and 400+ ft pounds of torque all day long and smile.

[Dust]

Best bang for the buck. In MY opinion.

GM 14BFF
Gears Install kit +/-$400 same as the Sterling.
Detroit $375-$425
8-lug and done under $800 or about 1/2 the price of the Sterling.

Add disks on 8-lug for maybe $300 and shave a TON of unsprung!
Full Float 5x5.5 with Disks add $600, maybe less.

Seen them get swapped in for failed Sterling axles several times.
The 14B will live on a diet of 40" meats twisted by the same big power rod knockers that destroyed the Sterlings.

In the SuperC if the front was stock width, I would run a 75-77 30-spl. D60 (narrower) and take the front to 8-lug to match giving larger brakes all round as a bonus. No modifications necessary, all off the shelf parts.
This is the first choice in the Highboy though it is, SA 4WD, the front will get wider with the install of the D60 Front.
IIRC you are going wide in the front so I would go a post 78 FF D60 (Van = Wider) for a low $$-bolt; and if I was thinking strength the FF14B hands down.
Having experienced the rear wheel and tire passing me (jeep) I really like the FF. In a Bronco application I would run a 9" though I would go to a FF for piece of mind if the budget was there. If not, well, I have never broken an axle in a 9" though I have in various Dana's.

In the case of the Highboy I'll likely use the last FF-14B that I have simply because it is the least expensive option and the maximum strength. If I build the Bronco I'll run a SF-Nine.

Just my opinion YMMV.

[philofab]

A Detroit is much cheaper for a 14bolt since it was designed for that axle, that would save a little $$$ in the long run. I think Steve's supercab is two wheel drive. I believe he wants it to be 5x5.5 so he can use his Alcoas and 15" tires, 8 lug would require new wheels and 16" or larger tires.

I would look into a 14 bolt for my Crew but I need a VSS in the rear so I'm limited to a Sterling or AAM axle. AAM stuff is still new enough to be expensive so I'll probably build a custom sterling.

[Dust]

Put the VSS in the 14B.
Put the VSS on the tail-shaft of the Trans.

[ChaseTruck754]

Crew cab is 8 lug and definitely getting a 14b. The one I have sitting here is for it.

Supercab is 2wd, 5x5.5 lug and the axle I am currently debating on. Whatever I do will be a full floater. Not into my wheels rolling past me as my axle tube digs into the ground like an anchor.

14b is definitely cheaper and plenty strong. Fabricated 9" is dang strong too - just more $$. Do I want the cool points???


Neither of my trucks need VSS - so no need for a sterling. Like Dust - I prefer the 14b.

[philofab]

Put the VSS in the 14B.
Put the VSS on the tail-shaft of the Trans.

I'm not a fan of the VSS on the tail shaft on 92 up trucks... it's not as accurate. Not sure I would want to machine all the metal out of a 14B to make it work either. Doesn't apply to Steve since he has a cable.

[bajascott]

i think i am going to build a ruffstuff housing, i got a line on one for a good price and axles i have a friend in the industry that is going to hook me up.
my bronco's duties are to drive it everywhere,beat on it when i can,and drive home.the 8.8 in it has been good with no problems,but as i said before it is not wide enough for what i am in the proccess of doing. im not really intrested in getting away from the 9" third due to the fact that they are relitively cheap to build and i could have an extra third in the garage to change ratio's if i choose. without spending the money on shop labor.
keep the input coming guys it is good stuff!

[ChaseTruck754]

That brings up another good point. The ruff stuff and similar housings don't come with axles usually. Where are guys turning for these? Summers Bros? Moser? Currie?

[Dust]

That brings up another good point. The ruff stuff and similar housings don't come with axles usually. Where are guys turning for these? Summers Bros? Moser? Currie?

Yes and in the 8.8 in the Ranger Yukon.

[bajascott]

moser

[philofab]

Although I have Currie axles in my Bronco I've had much better service from Moser and Dutchman.

[Dust]

Although I have Currie axles in my Bronco I've had much better service from Moser and Dutchman.

Agree'd!

From a buisness standpoint Jeepers will pay more for, and expect less, and that is easy money!