5/8s Wheel Studs

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philofab
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by philofab »

Maybe things are better now but I couldn't ever get those lugs from Desert Specialties when I ordered them years ago.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by cs_drums »

I vaguely remember trying to contact them, with no luck, before I got my old wheels machined
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by Wrightracing.net »

I have been running Moroso open ended acorn 5/8 lug nuts and 3" 5/8" Moroso studs on my Bronco. I got a full kit on ebay for $60 that came with studs, nuts and the proper drill bit for the studs. I think it was a dirt track kit. It has worked well for around 8 years.

I don't race the Bronco, but do you guys see an issue with them in a racing use?
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by Wrightracing.net »

oh, and I just used a 5/8" drill bit on my Steel Cragar rimes.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by philofab »

I've used the Moroso studs quite a bit. The only issue I've had is how short they are. With a hub/drum/thick wheel combo you run out of thread.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by Wrightracing.net »

Maybe a difference in rims but the 3" Moroso ones I have are just the opposite. The stud stick out kind of more then needed.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by philofab »

The Method's I tried to run were just over an inch thick at the bolt circle.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by Wrightracing.net »

Ya, the Cragar soft 8's are steel and around 5/16" on the face. I use to buy expensive rimes until I broke them just as easy as cheap rims. Then I liked the ability to hammer the rim back when needed instead of tears from the cost of a pricey mess up.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by robertcrav »

Just thought I'd throw in these Death Race/Super Gnar racing studs...

Image
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by Wrightracing.net »

Do they glow in the dark? :-)
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by yikes »

Left hand threads for the win!! haha!
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by robertcrav »

Didn't want to start a new thread for this since I thought it was relevant...

But these would be the type of lug nuts I'd need if I didn't upgrade my studs right away correct? And by looking at the pics I need to get somet that are a little longer?
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by nubreed71 »

These should work just fine with your 1/2" studs Robert. The conical seat holds the wheel in place. Pretty sure yours have a 45 degree conical seat.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rei-d60121/overview/
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by robertcrav »

nubreed71 wrote:These should work just fine with your 1/2" studs Robert. The conical seat holds the wheel in place. Pretty sure yours have a 45 degree conical seat.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rei-d60121/overview/
Thanks Taylor

By that...these should work as well ...?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-2081-5

Image

Brand:Howe Racing
Manufacturer's Part Number:2081-5
Part Type:Lug Nuts
Product Line:Howe Circle Track Lug Nuts
Summit Racing Part Number:HRE-2081-5

Quantity:Sold as a set of 5.
Lug Nut Thread Size:1/2-20 RH in.
Lug Nut Seat Style:Conical seat - 45 degree
Lug Nut Head Style:Standard
Open End Design:Yes
Conical Seat Type:Standard
Washer Included:No
Lug Nut Material:Steel
Lug Nut Finish:Silver anodized
Wrench Size Required (in):1 in.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by nubreed71 »

Yup, as long as they are 1/2"-20, and for 45 degree (sometimes called 90 degree) conical seat lug nuts. What you might want to do is go grab a 45 degree conical lug nut from your local auto parts store to verify that your wheel is machined for that before ordering up the fancy ones. You'll know pretty quick if it's the right taper, or if you really need 60 degree lug nuts. Or, you could just lay one of your existing lugs in there (your current ones are 60 degree taper) and if they don't fit, then you'll know 45 degrees is what you need.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by robertcrav »

nubreed71 wrote:Yup, as long as they are 1/2"-20, and for 45 degree (sometimes called 90 degree) conical seat lug nuts. What you might want to do is go grab a 45 degree conical lug nut from your local auto parts store to verify that your wheel is machined for that before ordering up the fancy ones. You'll know pretty quick if it's the right taper, or if you really need 60 degree lug nuts. Or, you could just lay one of your existing lugs in there (your current ones are 60 degree taper) and if they don't fit, then you'll know 45 degrees is what you need.
Roger that Sir
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by DLB »

As far as the conical nuts, if you use them with the wheel holes opened up for 5/8" they will come lose as the only thing holding the wheel is the cone. If the hole is too large (for the stud) it will allow the wheel to shift resulting in lose and damaged wheels. My .02
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by ChaseTruck754 »

playing devil's advocate here:

stock alcoas & many other wheels are only held on by the seat in conical nuts. They have about as much clearance between the stud & the hole for the stud as do the long neck lugs like Robert pictured above. Therefore I don't see how anything would be any different than stock.
Heck the 8 lug alcoas from the 90's HD ford trucks have holes for 9/16" studs and not all the trucks had the 9/16" studs. Some had 1/2". No major issues there that I've heard of.

Now if you're thinking just the basic conical nut like the gold colored, summit ones above with holes for 5/8" studs in the wheel, then yes, I could see a bit more of an issue there.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by nubreed71 »

ChaseTruck754 wrote:playing devil's advocate here:

stock alcoas & many other wheels are only held on by the seat in conical nuts. They have about as much clearance between the stud & the hole for the stud as do the long neck lugs like Robert pictured above. Therefore I don't see how anything would be any different than stock.
Heck the 8 lug alcoas from the 90's HD ford trucks have holes for 9/16" studs and not all the trucks had the 9/16" studs. Some had 1/2". No major issues there that I've heard of.

Now if you're thinking just the basic conical nut like the gold colored, summit ones above with holes for 5/8" studs in the wheel, then yes, I could see a bit more of an issue there.
THIS.

I mic'ed the holes on the stock alcoas vs the holes on my Walkers that are drilled for 5/8" studs, and it's maybe 1/16" larger at most. The lug holes on the stock alcoas don't make any contact with the stock studs so they aren't doing anything but allowing the tapered lug nuts to hold the wheel in place.
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Re: 5/8s Wheel Studs

Post by PaulW »

The over sized hole in the wheel compared to the stud means the tapered contact surface is reduced. While that may seem like a small issue after beating on them for a while the aluminum will yield in that area and you will end up with greatly reduced clamping force wheel to axle. The fix and correct solution is to use washer nuts. Fly cutting is not needed for stock Alcoas and your choice of wheels may prevent cutting a flat seating surface for the nut.
So in the end with washer nuts you end up loosing the lug centric fit. Does that bother you? Not me. I have many thousands of hard miles and I cannot tell if it matters. My wheel holes are pretty tight to the studs.
Most everything we do involves a trade of of some sort.
Low cost 9/16 and larger washer nuts are available from the big rig RV suppliers.
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