RMC's el hefe build.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:13 am

Is there a reason you went with neoprene over rubber. I would think that the rubber would be longer lasting. From what I have seen, a neoprene is more likely to dry rot faster than rubber. That being said, I use neoprene to water seal modified race radio's . In that being said, I use neoprene to water proof modified race radios. in that case there are no moving parts. Even the shocks will move but not much, so may not be an issue. I am looking at using a chemical resistant 1/4" or 3/8" rubber.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:56 am

I know where to buy nitrile and buna sheet but I made that boot for my steering shaft on my old truck and I didn't get but a year or so before it started rotting. I found 2 other kinds I'm not real sure about when getting the neoprene, natural ( vanilla colored) rubber, some red color foam rubber called finishing pad, then the normal black nitrile and buna type rubbers. I'm not really sure what's the best so I'm trying the neoprene this time because I was thinking of how many times a wetsuit see's the sun and water without dryrot. I'm guessing this may be based on the fabric over the foam rubber but I don't know. I do know this "gasket" will see little movement. Only the 1/4 inch or so of the shock bottom rocking with the axel arc path. I chose smooth bodies for this reason also. Talking about this just made me remember the guy who would know better than most of us. I'm going to call the dude at industrial rubber products in el cajon, I bet he could answer the question of what rubber won't dryrot quickly and will hang with temps up to 350 degrees or so. Ill let you know what he says.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:53 am

I was thinking CV boot rubber.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:56 am

I need to figure what kind of rubber that is, it needs to be uv resistant & oil resistant too, but I need it in sheet form.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 2:26 pm

Here is a link to a site that has spec's on all kinds of different rubber.

http://www.rubbersheetroll.com

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 2:39 pm

I need to read more but I'm liking the epdm cloth reinforced rubber. Weather resistant, good for mechanical fastening ect. The neoprene surprisingly has similar specs so ill use it for now. Let me know if you want the rest of what I bought, I have way too much and have over 1'x2' left over.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 6:26 pm

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:37 pm

Looks good, Thanks for the offer. It will be a while before I get to that point on my Bronco. I am doing a ground up rebuild on mine, even wiring. My Bronco is an 86 with more than 300,000 miles on it and over 100k in Baja. So I have dirt and sand that has been in the cab for more than 20 years.
Most of all is all the Mystery wiring and odd holes in the body from old ideas and project's. My Bronco has been through many face lifts over the years, time to do it all out as money permits. I just talked to a friend and he is going to do the bypass tubes on my 18"×3.0" Kings.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:49 pm

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:22 pm

C H O · Post by **C H O** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:33 am

Nice, looks like that will work well!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:03 am

Really looks like a good way to seal out the dirt and dust-- and not have some terrible metal on metal sounds. How is this typically done? Welding the body to the tubing or some kind of sealer?

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:06 am

VintageIronFab wrote:Really looks like a good way to seal out the dirt and dust-- and not have some terrible metal on metal sounds. How is this typically done? Welding the body to the tubing or some kind of sealer?

Thanks guys,
Vintage, that is the shock body not a tube, it will make more sence as soon as I post a larger view.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:57 pm

Hey Vintage, with the cage and the body you really want to weld them together in as many places as possible so they become one and move together rather than separately. I have seen guys fingers crushed between the cage and the body because it was not welded together.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:24 pm

Updates...

Cut out additional floor to fix the holesaw'd holes, plated them over, added rear shock crossbar, and verticle supports that will be tied to the frame just below the floor after the solid body mount kit is installed. Momo adapter hub showed up finally and am just starting to move forward again. Also removed the rear speaker screens to replace the blown oem speakers. Once these pieces are welded I can start putting the interior trim back together. Chopping out the section with the hole in it was easier than bending up a male and female floor plate counterpart to secure the cage to.

Trever Leach · Post by **Trever Leach** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:05 pm

Thanks again for the body mounts. And nice meeting you

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:11 pm

No prob Trevor, it was nice meeting you too. Now get that build thread started. I wanna see before surgery pics.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:51 pm

Just for the hell of it...

RMC's el hefe build.

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