Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

[philofab]

At the gas station this morning. The truck rides nicer on small bumps and washboard. Not nearly predictable at 80+ though... feels like it would sway with a trailer much easier now.

[tcm glx]

Looking good! The methods look a little small on the Toyos.....

[philofab]

Looking good! The methods look a little small on the Toyos.....

Yea... I'm thinking I want the 17" forged beadlock now.

The offset puts the wheels about a 1/2 inch farther in than my old wheels too. It's comparable to the offset on a factory Aloca.

[BajaBronco13]

Looks good Philo but damn those Toyos look like 37"s.

Now time to put the glass on. Can't wait to see that.

[philofab]

Looks good Philo but damn those Toyos look like 37"s.

I think Toyos are bigger than most other tires. I put my new 37" Toyos for my crew cab next to a set of 37" BFG Projects and they looked a little over an inch taller. Funny this is these are the exact same width and height at the old tires that were on the XD Rockstars.

Three of the tires are the used ones from Yikes! I was going to buy new ones but they are on national back order. No spare right now.

[Silverslk]

Looks nice Philo!!!! I have been eyeballing the methods for a while.

[philofab]

I got a decent pic to use for the background on my work comp.

http://www.philofab.com/temp/CIMG0730_background.JPG

You guys are welcome to use it....

[philofab]

Pulled the rear end apart to find the source of my pinion leak. I was worried it was junk pinion bearings but it appears to be a worn yoke.




The center section I bought claimed to be a fresh rebuild but this obviously should have been replaced.

I think this is a 1310 yoke so now I'm tempted to sell my drivelines and build a new one for 1350 joints and put a billet chromoly 1350 yoke on it/ What do you guys think? I haven't had a u-joint or yoke failure yet but I'd rather over build this to reduce the risk of being disabled due to it.

[300]

We actaully had more trouble with the 1350 yokes on the race truck and ended up going back to the stock Ford yokes. The billet units seemed to bend or get distorted easily with rock hits, and after that they would eat u-joints in short order. This happened more than once. We were using the standard sized driveshaft, so the 1350 yoke required an expensive adapter u-joint that was nothing more than a standard small joint with oversized cups on the 1350 side. For our use, the standard u-joints work just fine, we seldom ever use low range, and the overall miles are not that high between inspection or replacement, so the cheaper, readily available stuff was the way to go. Standard 1350 u-joints are also readily available, so if the whole shaft is changed out and up sized, that problem goes away, just be wary of the yoke issue. It was a shame, because those 1350 yokes have some nice gravel deflectors and 3/8" u-bolts. Some emory cloth and a good CR seal, and that existing yoke will clean up just fine.

[philofab]

What about the forged units? I'd really prefer a new yoke without groves in it. I need to replace the pinion support also as it has a crack starting in it. I was thinking about the Ford racing unit.

[300]

There is likely better stuff out there, and forged should be a good way to go. Of the two we used, they may have been cheap import in origin, but the cost was about $120 each from different sources. Was just a whole lot easier to use take-offs that we could get for little or no cost. We do use the standard Daytona style pinion carrier which seem to hold up just fine, and get those from West Coast Differential. Again, we had trouble with a trick aluminum pinion carrier that I think was actually built for a drag racing application. It used some massive, special application ball bearings. It went about 1000 miles in the Baja 2000 before the pinion shaft twisted off between the bearings. I think it was built with inadequate oiling provisions and caused everything to melt down. When the guys crawled under there to have a look at what happened, the stub of the pinion shaft was still glowing orange inside the carrier! Moral of my story (in our case): Hi dollar aftermarket parts didn't last long and failed in a spectacular fashion, cheap or used Ford designed parts last for a long time and no drama.

[philofab]

Bent the stock steering while prerunning the Ridgecrest course.

[Nick]

You beast you.

[shockseals.com]

ive got a new (less than 500 miles) ambulance drag link i bent and have since straightened and will sell as is for $50 or sleeve it and weld it for $100.

[philofab]

Current mileage 164,572

I've been using the Bronco quite a bit the last few months with a trip to Seattle, Long Beach, one Pismo trip, a Snore night race, a Barstow race, and a few local trips to the river. It's now in need of some prep work. I've had issues a long the way but not a single thing has actually disabled the truck.

1. Steering bent at Ridgecrest, I need to check it for binding and replace some parts.

2. Rear end needs a new yoke, pinion support, and is howling.

3. I need to install the fiberglass I have for the front and also purchase rear fenders.

4. Front seats need to be moved up a little and I'd like to create storage compartments under them.

5. Factory radiator overflow is cracked from use or age. I need to replace it with a better style can.

6. I need screen for the cooling holes I cut in the front skid plate.

7. Drivers door needs replacing due to a ton of spider cracking on the inner panel.

8. Headlights and header panel need replacing due to breakage.

9. Factory driveline is worn in the slip joint and creating vibration. I may put the new one that I've never used or have a 1350 style shaft made.

10. I need to wire the electric fans and replace the fan clutch.

11. Factory motor mounts are toast again. I need Autofab units.

12. I need to repair a minor exhaust leak on the driver side.

13. Perform some upgrades to the suspension, longer shackles, limit straps, and bump stops.

14. Center u-joint is binding and needs clearancing.

15. There is a clunk in the front end that may be from an axle or something loose.


Quite a list huh?

[shockseals.com]

Let me know what you go with for the overflow. The factory one is a flat out bad design. Any bump and it sloshes out the shitty excuse for a cap.

[philofab]

Let me know what you go with for the overflow. The factory one is a flat out bad design. Any bump and it sloshes out the shitty excuse for a cap.

I was thinking about stealing one of Yikes' huge resis and installing a sight glass. I'll probably just end up building an aluminum catch can. I need to relocate it anyways.

[yikes]

I was thinking about stealing one of Yikes' huge resis...

Haha! Yeah, if they were aluminum that would be kinda cool.

[SteveG]

I was thinking about stealing one of Yikes' huge resis...

Haha! Yeah, if they were aluminum that would be kinda cool.

Hmmm. I just happen to have a damaged one that some asshole dropped. Maybe it will see some use....

[philofab]

Forgot some stuff...

My M/C started sinking to the floor at lights so I may upgrade to a F250 M/C and booster.

I also have a snap noise when I push my clutch pedal in.

Trans needs to be gone through again and a fresh clutch installed.