The 8 Year Project

[flyinbronco]

Go wide young man Go wide.

[SteveG]

A perfect example of the headaches associated with mixing parts.

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[kylesgorter]

Needs longer arms?

[SteveG]

I'll probably re-work the radius arm bracket to move the assembly forward. I'm guessing this is a problem with both the radius arms (Superlift) and the buckets. Autofab buckets are built to compensate for beam traveling back when compressing. I don't know that the Burg did this.

[kylesgorter]

Interesting I didn't know autofab did that. Doesn't look like you gotta go far so I'm sure you will get what you need with a little clearancing. What length shock are you planning?

[AussieRod]

I'll probably re-work the radius arm bracket to move the assembly forward. I'm guessing this is a problem with both the radius arms (Superlift) and the buckets. Autofab buckets are built to compensate for beam traveling back when compressing. I don't know that the Burg did this.

Thats why Autofab stuff is sometimes worth the extra cost....... all the small details factored in.

[ESHALLBETTER]

Coilovers! BAM! Problem solved!

[SteveG]

Interesting I didn't know autofab did that. Doesn't look like you gotta go far so I'm sure you will get what you need with a little clearancing. What length shock are you planning?

Yup. John and crew really take a lot into consideration when building their kits. They really are bolt-on in a weekend and go play kits.

The radius arms have been modified to use a longer shock, so I'm hoping to use a 10" shock. If not, I'll use an 8" shock. Either way, it'll work really well and have plenty of travel.

Thats why Autofab stuff is sometimes worth the extra cost....... all the small details factored in.

Yup.

Coilovers! BAM! Problem solved!

Ha! For sure!

[Dust]

SNIP< but a back injury has Jeff re-thinking whether or not he wants a super-wide, hole-eating truck.

It is amazing how much that can rearrange your life.
Dust

[SteveG]

A bit more progress.

It looks like the fore and aft location of the front wheels will be easily remedied. Rather than cut the entire bracket apart, I think this will solve my problem with minimal effort and allow me to switch to the early model (f100's and such) radius arm bushings which work better with extended wheel travel.

Cut this little bad boy off the front and relocate the spacer to the front of the bracket.

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Rather than reuse the piece of tube Superlift originally used, I'll have a friend machine me some spacers with a larger outside diameter.

The end result will look something like this:

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[SteveG]

Woohoo! Progress!

I'd forgotten how much of a pain in the ass it is to install the radius arm brackets. The frame is double-walled in some areas and even has a spot with 3 layers of steel. Getting fasteners in spots with enough flat surface to put a bolt is still a work in progress. The other chore is the contoured lip on the bottom of the frame next to the catalytic converter. A plasma cutter would have made quick work of it but I'm at home so I had to improvise. I think I've shown you guys this before but it works great so I'm showing you again.

Skill Saw with an abrasive metal blade:

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Spot to be cut:

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Done!

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The front end is loosely bolted up and has been cycled. Moving the spacers from the rear of the radius arm brackets to the front worked out pretty well. The right side is pretty much dead on center at full bump. The left side is almost there but needs a bit more. I think I'll end up slotting the bolt holes on the coil-bucket to move the bucket rearward.

Can you tell these parts have been sitting outside for about 5 years?

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[kylesgorter]

I know autofab favors the older style of bushings do they work better? My issue on my truck right now is longer radius arms with a lower amount of lift and stock radius arm brackets. Because the arms mount further up the frame normally the bushing is pointed down a little so the bushing is already binding at ride with the longer arms. I want to build some brackets like what you have to keep the bushing at a more neutral position. Do you have a pic of the brackets on the frame and how thick is the material. I don't want to buy heims

[SteveG]

I know autofab favors the older style of bushings do they work better?

I think they might flex a little better but probably more importantly, they seem to hold up better to continuous cycling.

My issue on my truck right now is longer radius arms with a lower amount of lift and stock radius arm brackets. Because the arms mount further up the frame normally the bushing is pointed down a little so the bushing is already binding at ride with the longer arms. I want to build some brackets like what you have to keep the bushing at a more neutral position. Do you have a pic of the brackets on the frame and how thick is the material. I don't want to buy heims

I'll get some photos but in their current configuration, they're not the best examples. I would check Autofab's website for photos of their bushing arm pivot brackets... or the web in general.

Autofab's pivot brackets are designed so they are at zero-bind at static ride-height.

[SteveG]

Ahhhhhh! I swear I must have wronged one of the TTB designers at some point and now I'm being haunted. I simply cannot glue the diff in without forgetting something. The first time is always perfect. Just the right amount of sealant, everything is clean, no silicone mess, my hands are clean, feeling good about it then I realize I forgot to put the damn axle in. Damn it!

[SteveG]

Getting closer. Checking full bump....

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[SteveG]

The front is mostly, sort of done. I need to finalize some things and make a few adjustments. This morning I swapped the leaf springs to see if they are going to work or not (What I believe to be Ranger race packs going on an Explorer). I was a little worried at first considering the heaps of free arc but so far, I'm really liking the stance.

[SteveG]

Full droop-Stock

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[SteveG]

Yikes! Are these gonna work?

Full droop-Long travel leaves

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[SteveG]

I thought the leaves were going to be too long but they're only about an inch longer on the back side and bolted right in. I'll likely either relocate the shackle location on the frame or shorten the spring an inch to make the stock shackle work better.

So far I'm really liking the stance. I wanted it to be relatively low but still have plenty of available wheel travel. The rear is a little low but I may end up lowering the front a bit to compensate.

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[hobbyturnedobsession]

It looks good Steve! But is the rear wheels forward a tad?