TTB Build thoughts

[Dust]

I tried to search just to see in all the info was in one place.

Not addressing the mounting point locations or the C&T.

1. At what point UniBalls
1a.how do they hold up to DD and in wet/snow type applications?
2. At what point do things like plating and bracing become desirable?
3. What modifications would be a good idea, things like eliminating the C-clip, D50 parts, etc?
4. How well does the 3rd-member hold up to LS or lockers etc?

I'm sure I've missed a few things

[SteveG]

1. When? I would say for any application that sees regular hard use (the suspension is fully cycling on a regular basis). In other words, when you're eating up a lot of bushings.

1a. Don't know. Corrosion will be the enemy. Not just for the bearing surface, but the mounting surface and between the bolt and bearnig. Removing rusted-in heim joints and uniballs sucks. That reminds me. I need to clean and rotate mine.

I'll tell you what John at Autofab told me when I ordered my radius arms and was deciding between bushings and radius arms. Something like, "These are race car parts and require race car maintenance."

2. In my opinion the only truly required bracing for heavy use is the boxing in of the passenger beam and plating (in the same place) of the driver beam. The huge trusses across the front are all show in my eyes. I can maybe see trussing between the diff and the pivot on the driver beam, but not across the other side. I can't imagine how much force would be required to bend the beam between the diff and wheel.

Now, if you're adding material to contour the front to let it skip over rocks better (maybe this is the story behind the Leduc braces?) I guess I can see that, too. But I still argue that most of them are done for cool points.

[SteveG]

Another note on the trusses:

If you're not regularly jumping your truck (and landing hard) you can get away without any bracing at all. Ollie's truck has been in service for 15 plus years with no bracing.

Also, having a third mounting point on the radius arm helps spread the load a bit and keeps the beam from wanting to rotate on the radius arm bolts.

Bottom line, if you're going to build a TTB truck, you might as well box them in. It's cheap insurance. The truss on the front... whatever floats your boat.

[bajascott]

i second what steve says, in my opinion truss would be nessesary only if you were extending the beam.( i have a massive truss on mine and ones i have built for others but it is more for looks).
uniballs will get load here in oregon and with the cinders they use on our highways in the winter,i would think that that would take its toll on them.

simple simple simple
i dont know about the l/s in the third member. i personally like to steer on the highway in the snow.

[Dust]

i second what steve says, in my opinion truss would be nessesary only if you were extending the beam.( i have a massive truss on mine and ones i have built for others but it is more for looks).
uniballs will get load here in oregon and with the cinders they use on our highways in the winter,i would think that that would take its toll on them.

simple simple simple
i dont know about the l/s in the third member. i personally like to steer on the highway in the snow.

Uniballs I kind of figured would be out for a DD.
I'm thinking ARB as steering in snow...

What about axle shafts?
In my case I will not be going wider at all, just wheel offset.

[Berne]

We trussed/plated the hell out of the beams in the shop truck....rational being we're in there messing w/ them, they were clean/blasted...and it was all stripped. if it was going to get done, it was going to happen then.

the guts of the front end on the shop truck are all stock. it gets used in 4x4 sparingly....we basically run it as a 2wd truck hauling around the weight penalty of 4x4 for "just in case".

you ever get over on this side of the hill, you should come over and check it out.

--B

[philofab]

My truss is more to look cool than needed. The only place I would do is the open area on the passenger beam since that is where they bend first and the extra bit of weight does not hurt.

The uniballs have been on my truck for 15K miles without an issue, but I clean/lube them every oil change and it never rains here. They seem to give more balljoint life in my opinion, as I am still on factory stock ball joints with 165K total on them.

I eliminated my c-clip of ease of service. I used the spring trick.

[Deleted Account]

The uniballs in my d/d have been in there for 8 years. BUT im in so cal. I box the back of all the beams i do. Its cheap to do and it does make them stronger. Front braces look cool. I do like front skid plates though. I like to get rid of the c-clip. Then you cn run any posi or locker. I like the trutrac. But the spring trick im not a fan of. Use the early diff with the 3 bolt flange on the axle. I also use 3 mounting points on the radius arms. I like it alot more.

[Dust]

What years and what chassis were the 3Bolt Diffs in.
Can the other diff be modified?

I did the spring trick on our Ranger though I don't know why as we don't carry a spare anything...
Dropping the diff in the shop is no big.

[Dust]

I really like this execution.
Necessary? Prolly opinion rages up and down.
The thing that intrigues me is the possibility for massive strength increases as a drive axle.

Yes, I ripped from RDC

[philofab]

I really like this execution.
Necessary? Prolly opinion rages up and down.
The thing that intrigues me is the possibility for massive strength increases as a drive axle.

Yes, I ripped from RDC

That sir is equal length which gives you the possibility of over 20" of travel out of the same track width. Lots of work, but worth it as it also decreases camber change. You'll notice the the passenger beam is in front of the driver rather than behind like stock.

[philofab]

What years and what chassis were the 3Bolt Diffs in.
Can the other diff be modified?

I did the spring trick on our Ranger though I don't know why as we don't carry a spare anything...
Dropping the diff in the shop is no big.

Early 80s trucks around 82 or so were bolt on. A later diff could not be modified easily, it would requite a lot of machining on the center and the axle.

[BajaBronco13]

Is that the Blazer chassis that's over at Glen's Complete Fabrication shop in SD?

CP

[Deleted Account]

80-82????? I not tottaly sure though. I cant use the spring on my stuff cause i use all the travel of the slip yoke. and that is soo oldschool.. lol



and flexy ibeams longarm c/o jk wranglers lift tires right here.

[philofab]

Big difference from the Rough Riders truck, it was never meant to use 4wd. It had an aluminum Dana 28 center to reduce unsprung weight. The only reason it had four wheel drive was to be legal in the class.

The one posted above (Ramsey's I think?) looks to be able to use 4wd without fear of breakage.

[PaulW]

Is that the Blazer chassis that's over at Glen's Complete Fabrication shop in SD?

CP

===========
Yes. Look a lot different by now.
PW

[PaulW]

Big difference from the Rough Riders truck, it was never meant to use 4wd. It had an aluminum Dana 28 center to reduce unsprung weight. The only reason it had four wheel drive was to be legal in the class.

The one posted above (Ramsey's I think?) looks to be able to use 4wd without fear of breakage.

==========
Yes, Ramsey's. That is the equal length beam D70 TTB. In the background is the Camero road racer that Glen owns and races.
PW

[philofab]

Yes, Ramsey's. That is the equal length beam D70 TTB. In the background is the Camero road racer that Glen owns and races.
PW

Dana 70?!?!?

[Dust]

If I did it, I'd choose a D60 and run CV's...

[Nick]

Here's an example of the work that Mark (Southwest Performance) does on his beams.

Clocking 3rd member


Plating/boxing




Axle clearancing


We've all heard the phrase, "you get what you pay for" well, this is the kind of excellent work you can expect from Mark! Sure you can go get a set of beams on the cheap, but when you are going down a nasty whooped out road, are you really going to trust your bargain beams?