Rear Traction Bar setups

[Rmc]

I honestly can't see the autofab bars doing anything. The top of the axel will still rotate back upon flattening of the spring same as without them. The point the wrap would stop is when the front half of the spring ran out of length when flattened. With a top mounted set up it would cause bind but it would stop the rotation all together ( not saying its good for the springs as the front half wouldn't flatten unless in the downward motion in reguards to pinion angle which in my mind would cause spring failure at the same rate or worse than not having them). The shackle type hold the axel fixed rotationally but allows the axel to move backward upon compression eliminating wrap but allowing plunge or the increase in arc end point length wise. Wouldn't a more effective set up be track bars shackle mounted with the pivot point located at the leaf front pivot but the bars length being the same as the flattened spring length?

[Seabass]

It will only cause bind if your shackle isn't long enough. At lest that's what I'm seeing in my head. The shackle allows the axle to swing back by swinging back itself. It still eliminates wrap because you'd have to stretch the shackle to wind up the springs. I'm thinking this may add squat under load.

[cs_drums]

Six of one half dozen of the other. There is more than one way to skin a cat. Either set up is gonna have its pros and cons. Likely you will get binding at some point in the travel with either as well. Start mocking and cycling and see what you come up with.

[cs_drums]

Unless you are going with the floating shackle type set-up, the bar needs to be about as long as the front of the springs. Even with the shackle I wouldn't make it much longer then the springs or it will be fighting them.

Im agreeing with Brian here. The 64s get alot of travel out of there droop and there is alot of pinion change in the bottom half of the travel. The pinion angle is swinging with the front of the leafs so if the link is longer than that the pinion angle is gonna want to change less causing the link to fight the springs. Ideally you want the link to arch as close to the full drooped front leaf, any length change from the flattening of the spring is what the shackle is for.

[VintageIronFab]

This is what a snail wrap looks like. Military wrap is something completely different.

[cs_drums]

The 64s already have a snail wrap

[Rmc]

Yes and no. Snail wrap is the outermost wrap (similar to traction bar idea) the second is the main leaf and the inner most is the 2nd leaf, idea being the main leaf snaps the second leaf brings you home. Your picture has both.

[VintageIronFab]

That outer leaf is designed to only go halfway to the middle of the top of the pack as a traction adder

[Rmc]

Yessir that's what's in the parenthesis above. I have a set of military wrapped snail shell national leaf springs. That's why I got em like that. Ill try em n see how well it works. The nationals have the security of the first n second leaf incase the main leaf breaks ( military) and the anti wrap leaf ( snail shell). You can get non snail shall and snail shell non military wrapped. My nationals have both.

[Rmc]

Here:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0808o ... to-09.html

[Rmc]

Typo above. Dang no edit! Snail wrap not snail shell sorry.

[Jbfab]

Off topic but where can i find pictures of this rigs canti shock setup?

[Tchajagos]

Looks like the shock goes straight back to the rear. No flue tank down there though. Doh.

[BDKW1]

With as far inboard as those shocks are mounted, they will be doing almost nothing for sway control. Not a good set-up.

[DMbronco]

Alright Fellas,

Guess this is the right place for this question.

I have a '96 with J40s, SWP upper shock mount, Bilstein 9100 quad bypasses and was running SWP's single link bar until recently,
when I found a crack on the factory crossmember where the link pivot box bolts to the frame/body along the driver's side undercarriage.
The link is heimed on both ends, and two fab shops have voiced their opinion that this isnt the way to do it.

Neither like the idea of plating the pivot box in and welding up the crack; both suggest reinventing the wheel so to speak.

I was sold on the single link over the two link by SWP, on the basis it offered more articulation and better ground clearance.

Is Autofab my best option for a bolt on kit that uses bushings?

Input appreciated, thanks

[DMbronco]

A buddy who is into drag cars suggested something like this-

http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

[Wrightracing.net]

A buddy who is into drag cars suggested something like this-

http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

That style works for a street car but would limit wheel travel to much
on an off road vehicle.

[DMbronco]

thanks for your response.

input on the other options?

i think i may experience more wheel hop than most here due to my leaf choice

[cs_drums]

Could the heims just be to tight or loose? I dont think there is anything wrong with the design. Ideally you should be able un bolt either heim and slide the bolt in and out at any point in the travel if it is not binding. You may be able to adjust out a good amount of the push pull that would cause cracking. Did he use a left hand thread hiem on one side?

[cs_drums]

What psi are you running? That make a huge difference in my truck with the hopping.