GoFastBroncos.com

I've owned and used this bronco as a daily driver for a couple of years and finally started to build what I've always intended to. The plan is to keep it relatively mild. So far I've got +4.5" beams from CHO (definitely a little more wild than mild) to get things started on the front end. I've got 4.5 glass for the front and 3" bedsides from Fiberwerx. I'm just about ready to set the wheelbase and get the new glass on. Still need to buy some C/O's, extend axles, and build some swing set steering. CHO was nice enough to lend me some ambulance steering for the time being. The rear is bone stock at the moment and I'm hoping to come across a decent rear on race dezert or here in the classifieds. I'd like to link the rear but that's a little further down the road. So, the plan is to get all the running gear figured out up front, then rear, and finally tackle the cage/dash/interior work. This will likely be a slow and steady project thread so be patient with me and we'll see where it ends up in a year or so.

Out with the old




In with the new.
Here's the progress so far. Just trying to get everything together so I can set the wheelbase.


Sandblasted the knuckles, painted them, and threw some NAPA ball joints in. It just didn't seem right to throw the untouched stock stuff on the ends of the works of art CHO built. I also replaced all the bearings and rotors while I was at it.




Sending the passenger side beam out for a little rework so the big stuff will be on hold for a bit, meanwhile I'll get to work on the axles and ABS removal.

I didn't read your post, but I did recently enjoy the hell out of your state... love that place.

And, welcome.

Right on, Steve, and thanks for the welcome. Where did you visit? Moab?

Nah, Zion, SLC and a few random stops on the way to Rally in the Pines in Idaho. Utah was beautiful. We plan to go back next year and spend more time at the highlights from our trip.

Got a new toy that should help me get going on the bumpers/skid plate/roll cage. Took a minute to save the dough for it but I've finally got a tube bender of my own! I weighed my options between all of the tube benders out there but it really came down to two choices for me. The JD2 Model 32 or the RogueFab bender. At the end of the day they both would have cost nearly the same. I ended up going with the RogueFab bender because it bends vertically, all the dies do 180°, and ultimately because it's mobile. As an added bonus, it's already hydraulic. I finally put it together and did a couple test bends on some small diameter thin wall 3/4" stuff I had lying around for some motorcycle projects. Worked like a charm. I'll get going on the bumpers here as soon as it stops snowing so much. Oh, the other bonus is that RogueFab has combo dies (pictured) for smaller tube for $200. Not too shabby. I'll let you all know how it works on the day to day stuff.

Since we can't seem to edit posts, I just wanted to update the page with old pics and let folks know I've got a Camburg complete axle housing on order(wilwood discs, 2.5 snouts, axles, etc etc). Should be here in 6ish weeks. As much as I want to link the rearend I've decided I'd go with leafs just to get driving as quickly as possible. I'll be ordering shocks four all four corners shortly.

I sold my boat.. So, I'm taking a good chunk of that dough and allocating it to the Bronco. I realize you can spend a limitless amount on an off road truck but I'm hoping I can have a capable machine for less than what one would spend on a Razer or Can AM. And without being financed haha. Expect some updates in the coming weeks.

While I'm at it; I'm sure this is relatively common among Ford trucks of the 90's, but my truck appears to have an issue. The passenger side tire mounting surface is about 1.5-2" further outboard than the driver's side. It had the issue prior to putting the new beams on but it's much more obvious/apparent now.

Is this just a matter of the whole body shifting to one side via worn out body mounts? By obvious process of elimination I have identified worn bushings/bad alignment is not the cause. So either Ford effed up the mounting locations for the beams from the factory or the body shifted, right?? I haven't checked the frame for square yet, the truck hasn't been in any major accidents (that I know of), and it rolled super true when I used it as a DD. It all appeared to be normal while doing the front-end overhaul but I'm still not ruling the frame out until I put a tape on it. The odd thing is all the door gaps, fender gaps, hood gaps appear to be within spec... Typically you'd see them all out-of-whack if the frame were bent or if it had been in a major accident. Obviously I don't know what the cause is, but I will pull the whole body off the chassis to find the problem if I have to.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and actually fixed it/found the root cause.

huh, never seen that before! hope someone has the answers for you.

Is the tire sticking out more thing based on stock fenders, or the fiberglass fenders, or is it the same with both?

The photos don't make it look super different from side to side, but that is basing it off tire tread showing beyond the bumper and photo angle can play a big part here.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:Is the tire sticking out more thing based on stock fenders, or the fiberglass fenders, or is it the same with both?

The photos don't make it look super different from side to side, but that is basing it off tire tread showing beyond the bumper and photo angle can play a big part here.

Sorry the pics don't quite show both with the same fenders on but the problem is certainly with the truck, not the fenders. Whether the glass is on or not, it's clear the passenger side sticks out significantly more. I still haven't taken the time to take some frame measurements. Hopefully someone can give me some solid clues..

It could be the body shifting due to bad mounts.

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hobbyturnedobsession wrote:It could be the body shifting due to bad mounts.

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Definitely a possibility. I'm actually hoping this is the issue, although, I've been under the truck quite a bit and the body mounts pass a visual inspection.. The bolts all seem to be concentric with the bushings and mounting holes.

My plan from here is to take some frame measurements. That should reveal where the issues are. If it doesn't, the next step is to get the body off the frame and inspect even further.

If my memory of the body mounting design is remotely accurate, the body (even with NO body mount bushings) couldn't feasibly move as far as it has.. Which makes me think the frame is jacked somewhere.. Usually the body lines and door/hood/panel gaps are impossible to align if that's the case. Which my truck has great body gaps... It's one of the world's great mysteries

id check the beams and make sure both sides were extended the same amount.

is this measurement the same side to side, maybe your beams got mixed with someone elses?

mobil1syn wrote:id check the beams and make sure both sides were extended the same amount.

is this measurement the same side to side, maybe your beams got mixed with someone elses?

Good thought, but the problem existed long before the extended beams were put on. It only appears worse now because everything sticks out past the body.

well then, id get it to a frame shop and make sure things are where they are supposed to be.

Start measuring stuff. Check the difference from one side to the other. You should be able to
measure from the frame to the pinch weld on the body and see if the cab is shifted

Frame dimensions for reference: