Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Point of reference about drive shafts. After all these years since my rebuild with the full stretch I had the ominous clicking sound on my stock sized joints. I say stock but ther rear of course is longer but has stock joints. The fron is different than stock due to the F350 double cardon addition. Still stock sized joints in all 4 places. Both double cardons had to be rebuilt. The DS guy said the stock non DC joints were fine and he just put in new kits. Both DC were worn and had to be rebuilt. I asked about upgrading the things to the 1350s and he said the DC would last a lot longer because they are big enough to allow a lube fitting. Trouble is the 1356 transfer output has to be custom made since there are no swaps available. He said a different transfer would be cheaper and the cost would be unreasonable and it would be best to just bring the shafts in as soon as the clicking begins.
If one is running a C6 and the older transfer then things are different than my '96. 300 gave the story on that setup.
Paul
If one is running a C6 and the older transfer then things are different than my '96. 300 gave the story on that setup.
Paul
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Just found out I can swap a zf in place of the m5r2. Might go that way...
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- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Ran out of gas this morning with over 1/4 tank... I need to pull the fuel tank and fix it.
Thanks to Rory for towing me!
Thanks to Rory for towing me!
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- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
It's been a while since I've updated this thread. I've finally done something other than drive the Bronco. I finally installed the used Autofab hood I picked up last night. The preparations are beginning for installing glass fenders, new drivers door, and adding a cage. I can't decide if I want to buy a 2" die for my JD2 bender the build the cage with or just use 1 3/4. In my eyes 1 3/4 is plenty fine but I can't help think about the possibility of selling it someday. A 2" cage could be converted to SCORE legal and might increase it's value slightly. I doubt what I'm going to build would pass tech but I'm more concerned with ease of access to the rear seats and adding some rigidity to it. I'm also toying with the idea of miter cutting the cage and not using any bends.
I also noticed some areas I need to address on the truck. I've put almost 30,000 miles on it since I bought it last year and a very large majority has been offroad.
1. I need to rebuild the trans again. It's getting stuck in reverse and 4th at the same time every once in a while and it stays in first when in neutral sometimes. It's now leaking from the top of the case and need a fresh clutch + hydraulic throwout. I really like to have a ZF with it's lower first gear and higher overdrive. They seem to be rare in a SB pattern.
2. I need to add a fill / gear inspection cap to the front diff. I really like having one on that back. It made refilling the rear axle at service stations when I lost a pinion seal coming back from Pismo a breeze.
3. The axle window needs a little more clearance on the passenger beam and a gusset underneath.
4. I need to install limit straps and bump stops.
5. I need to install the longer shackles I've had for a year unless they go on Bertha.
6. I need to install the two link stuff I have to reduce axle hop. The more I tune the rear shocks the more it presents itself.
7. The passenger header has a minor leak that needs fixing.
8. I need to wire my radio, amp, electric fans, sirens, and alarm. Lights would be nice too.
Wow, I realize how much work is still to be done when I make lists like this.
I also noticed some areas I need to address on the truck. I've put almost 30,000 miles on it since I bought it last year and a very large majority has been offroad.
1. I need to rebuild the trans again. It's getting stuck in reverse and 4th at the same time every once in a while and it stays in first when in neutral sometimes. It's now leaking from the top of the case and need a fresh clutch + hydraulic throwout. I really like to have a ZF with it's lower first gear and higher overdrive. They seem to be rare in a SB pattern.
2. I need to add a fill / gear inspection cap to the front diff. I really like having one on that back. It made refilling the rear axle at service stations when I lost a pinion seal coming back from Pismo a breeze.
3. The axle window needs a little more clearance on the passenger beam and a gusset underneath.
4. I need to install limit straps and bump stops.
5. I need to install the longer shackles I've had for a year unless they go on Bertha.
6. I need to install the two link stuff I have to reduce axle hop. The more I tune the rear shocks the more it presents itself.
7. The passenger header has a minor leak that needs fixing.
8. I need to wire my radio, amp, electric fans, sirens, and alarm. Lights would be nice too.
Wow, I realize how much work is still to be done when I make lists like this.
Follow me on Instagram. @philofab1 or Youtube https://www.youtube.com/philofab/
- Polarcub
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
lol it never ends haha FWIW I have thought long and hard about the cage question I feel that for us hobbyists 1 3/4 is fine for the cage. I don't believe that the extra headaches/cost for a 2" cage will pay for itself most of our broncos will remian in the pre run/toy realm a nice cage with 1 3/4 is plenty safe and will fit better just my 2 cents
Jeremy
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
I have no doubt that 1 3/4 is safe for the speeds and weight of a Bronco. The main problem is that Bill Savage decided that trucks over 4K now need to be 2" and that affects a lot of people's opinion of safe. It's much harder to cut a complete cage out and redo it than to add a few bars to make it "safe" according to SCORE's standards. I've actually seen a lot of "prerunners" and toys being converted to race trucks lately. The difference between a 1 3/4 and 2" cage investment wise is only $400 or $500 including materials.Polarcub wrote:lol it never ends haha FWIW I have thought long and hard about the cage question I feel that for us hobbyists 1 3/4 is fine for the cage. I don't believe that the extra headaches/cost for a 2" cage will pay for itself most of our broncos will remian in the pre run/toy realm a nice cage with 1 3/4 is plenty safe and will fit better just my 2 cents
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
I thot I read that an international sactioning group published standards for certain main tubes based of vehicle weight. SCORE was not the only body that uses these standards. Once the standards were published then the liability concerns make it only prudent that they follow the standards.
Paul
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Paul
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philofab wrote:I have no doubt that 1 3/4 is safe for the speeds and weight of a Bronco. The main problem is that Bill Savage decided that trucks over 4K now need to be 2" and that affects a lot of people's opinion of safe. It's much harder to cut a complete cage out and redo it than to add a few bars to make it "safe" according to SCORE's standards. I've actually seen a lot of "prerunners" and toys being converted to race trucks lately. The difference between a 1 3/4 and 2" cage investment wise is only $400 or $500 including materials.Polarcub wrote:lol it never ends haha FWIW I have thought long and hard about the cage question I feel that for us hobbyists 1 3/4 is fine for the cage. I don't believe that the extra headaches/cost for a 2" cage will pay for itself most of our broncos will remian in the pre run/toy realm a nice cage with 1 3/4 is plenty safe and will fit better just my 2 cents
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Some images of the hood mounted. I still need to install some hood struts and replace the screws with steel rivets. I made the holes in the pin mounts larger than needed so there is 3/8 adjustment in every direction. Handy since the hood already had the pin grommets installed when I got it.




I also got a spare trans & flywheel from Poolman. I already need a freshening up on the one in the Bronco that was rebuilt a year and a half ago.

I've also been running around without a top...





I also got a spare trans & flywheel from Poolman. I already need a freshening up on the one in the Bronco that was rebuilt a year and a half ago.

I've also been running around without a top...

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- Andy Jones
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
it looked good out there at parker Philo!
dont PM me.. I don't get them on Taptalk
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
I did a little work to the Bronco today. I finally changed the rear wheel bearing & seal that was leaking, started to do some wiring or the accessories, and tried to remedy the clunk from the lower beam bolt on the drivers side.
I removed the stock lower beam bolts and replaced with fresh grade 8 bolts and added washers. The factory has an additional bracket that acts as washer that bolts to the beam, and my truck no longer has this. I used red Loctite this time and set my impact to "kill".

Stock bolt on the left, new grade 8 on right.

Bolts installed.
I also started installing all the wiring the truck will need for the stereo amps, inverter, sirens, offroad lights, race radio, cooling fans, extra cigarette plugs, ect. My race radio has been plugged into cigarette lighter since I installed it and I will get better performance if it's wired to the battery.

The rear junction blocks for ground and battery positive.

150 amp breaker and buss bar with smaller 40 amp breakers.

Four alarm sirens for the slow people in my way...
I removed the stock lower beam bolts and replaced with fresh grade 8 bolts and added washers. The factory has an additional bracket that acts as washer that bolts to the beam, and my truck no longer has this. I used red Loctite this time and set my impact to "kill".

Stock bolt on the left, new grade 8 on right.

Bolts installed.
I also started installing all the wiring the truck will need for the stereo amps, inverter, sirens, offroad lights, race radio, cooling fans, extra cigarette plugs, ect. My race radio has been plugged into cigarette lighter since I installed it and I will get better performance if it's wired to the battery.

The rear junction blocks for ground and battery positive.

150 amp breaker and buss bar with smaller 40 amp breakers.

Four alarm sirens for the slow people in my way...
Follow me on Instagram. @philofab1 or Youtube https://www.youtube.com/philofab/
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Some pics from messing around on the way back from Vegas and some goodies I got for Stage 8 for the Bronco and Bertha.


















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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Hey Philo, GREAT photo set... the truck looks nice.
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Took some video today at the Barstow cleanup. My truck needs some love now...
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Looks like fun!!!
I was wrenching on mine all day.
I was wrenching on mine all day.
SteveG wrote:The point? It's amazing these front ends go down the road straight in any form! The TTB is brute. A broad sword and not a scalpel. That's why I love it!
- ChaseTruck754
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Man I am smooth with the camera!
Did you end up figuring out what your new noise was?
Did you end up figuring out what your new noise was?
Owner of only dead and forgotten projects
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
No, I haven't put it up on the lift yet. I'm thinking a front wheel bearing or drive shaft as it also has a vibration at about 70-75 now.ChaseTruck754 wrote:Man I am smooth with the camera!
Did you end up figuring out what your new noise was?
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- yikes
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Haulin A! So jealous!
- philofab
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"

Ummm.... how did that happen?
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- yikes
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Re: Philo's 93 Bronco aka "Lucky Bronco #3"
Nice!!!!! Love it!
