Kel Fab Creations Bronco Build

[SteveG]

I like it. I recommend some sort of lock for the bolt? I'd consider drilling the threaded portion of the bung/coupler and bolt to use a cotter pin.

That was weird. It didn't show your second sentence till after I responded.

I was thinking the cotter pin would be a good way to make it easier to service.

Cotter pin is a good idea but I think lock washer and locktite should be fine. After all, thats all that holds the rad arms to the beams right?

Yes. But, the radius arm to axle-housing bolts also like to loosen up in off-road applications. This is why I like Autofab's arms with the third mounting point... keeps the arm from wanting to rotate on the radius arm/axle-housing bolts.

[ChaseTruck754]

Safety wire...

I like it! Seen one set up like that before & had forgotten about it.

[Kel Fab Creations]

Cool design, buff. Only down side I see is the inability to shank out the bolt. Maybe if its an option on design version 2.0 you can get the threads recessed a bit so bolt shank can pass through both sides.

Shanking out the bolt is still doable but would be pointless with this configuration. The nut is now welded to that side so it doesn't really matter if any part of the bolt is in contact with the plate. The bolt is 3/4''. The hole in the plate could be 1" big and it still wouldn't change anything.

[Kel Fab Creations]

I like it. I recommend some sort of lock for the bolt? I'd consider drilling the threaded portion of the bung/coupler and bolt to use a cotter pin.

That was weird. It didn't show your second sentence till after I responded.

I was thinking the cotter pin would be a good way to make it easier to service.

Cotter pin is a good idea but I think lock washer and locktite should be fine. After all, thats all that holds the rad arms to the beams right?

Yes. But, the radius arm to axle-housing bolts also like to loosen up in off-road applications. This is why I like Autofab's arms with the third mounting point... keeps the arm from wanting to rotate on the radius arm/axle-housing bolts.

Hmm. I haven't experienced the rad arm to beam bolt loosening up before. Are you speaking from experience or heard it from someone? Was locktite and/or a lock washer used in these instances?

I like the cotter pin idea but don't wanna drill the holes. I'm seriously considering it but still not convinced locktite and lock washer won't do the trick.

[Kel Fab Creations]

Safety wire...

I like it! Seen one set up like that before & had forgotten about it.

What!? I haven't seen anything like this before. Thought I was the first. Dang it.

[SteveG]

Hmm. I haven't experienced the rad arm to beam bolt loosening up before. Are you speaking from experience or heard it from someone? Was locktite and/or a lock washer used in these instances?

Well, all but one pair or radius arms I've used had the third mounting point so, no, not really personal experience with that. I have had reports of the issue from plenty of reliable sources, though. Unless the truck is exceptionally rigid, the distance between the corresponding radius arm and axle-housing pivot changes slightly and the beam and arm are squeezed and spread... wanting to rotate on the arm/beam bolts. Once my brother's Explorer is dialed in, I'll add a third mounting point to the front of the radius arm so I don't have to deal with it later. It's a little more work but cheap insurance.

[Kel Fab Creations]

Cool. Thanks for the insight Steve.

[Rmc]

I like it. I recommend some sort of lock for the bolt? I'd consider drilling the threaded portion of the bung/coupler and bolt to use a cotter pin.

What is used on machinery is a drilled and tapped set of holes for set screws, once the bolt is at full seated position u take a drill and " dimple" the threads, at which point the bolt cannot back out, u use pointed set screws and there's an turned grove in line with the centerline of the set screw holes, u take a hand file and notch the set screws when there tight, in a v shape then run a wrap of safety wire over both set screws. Nothing can back out ever unless safety wire failure.

[Rmc]

I like it. I recommend some sort of lock for the bolt? I'd consider drilling the threaded portion of the bung/coupler and bolt to use a cotter pin.

What is used on machinery is a drilled and tapped set of holes for set screws, once the bolt is at full seated position u take a drill and " dimple" the threads, at which point the bolt cannot back out, u use pointed set screws and there's an turned grove in line with the centerline of the set screw holes, u take a hand file and notch the set screws when there tight, in a v shape then run a wrap of safety wire over both set screws. Nothing can back out ever unless safety wire failure.

Not shure if I mentioned the set screws go cross wase to the bolt u want clamped, but a lil loctite and a lock washer sounds like a lot less hassle .

[Kel Fab Creations]

I appreciate all the bolt locking options everyone but I'm gonna stick with my original plan and keep an eye on them. I'm really curious if they will back out without a cotter pin, set screw or safety wire. Gotta put it to the test to know for sure.

[ChaseTruck754]

Safety wire...

I like it! Seen one set up like that before & had forgotten about it.

What!? I haven't seen anything like this before. Thought I was the first. Dang it.

Don't think the one I saw had the tube clamp things - I think it was a threaded bung on either end of a tube. Might have had 1 tube clamp in the middle but can't remember.

Still I have seen the bolts threaded into the crossmember thing.

[Rmc]

If it was me I'd use the removability of that crossbar a a starting point for an under engine/trans skid plate. Cool idea btw kel looks good.

[Kel Fab Creations]

That thought has crossed my mind. Thanks for the heads up.

[Travisfab]

This may be a good option is you're concerned

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/BOLTLK.html

[ChaseTruck754]

Only problem I can see with those is they'd have to be used on the bolt head - not nut and making sure the nut is turned the exact same way each time could be tricky. Still, for things you don't take apart very often they look kind cool. You just gotta hope the bolt you use to keep that tab on doesn't come loose/out - haha

[cs_drums]

What about nordlock washers. I watch a video on those things and they out performed all the other options available. I think I may run them on all my steering.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... rfqLineId=

[ChaseTruck754]

Got those on the bolts I used as studs for the rear hubs on my crew cab (along with green lock tight for extra insurance) and they are pretty cool. Might work well.

[Kel Fab Creations]

Those washers are cool! I'm gonna get some for the rad arm to beam bolts too.

[Rmc]

Waste management uses florecent green ones on their lug nuts, I've wondered where to get them, I like em.

[jkrell]

Cool design, buff. Only down side I see is the inability to shank out the bolt. Maybe if its an option on design version 2.0 you can get the threads recessed a bit so bolt shank can pass through both sides.

Shanking out the bolt is still doable but would be pointless with this configuration. The nut is now welded to that side so it doesn't really matter if any part of the bolt is in contact with the plate. The bolt is 3/4''. The hole in the plate could be 1" big and it still wouldn't change anything.

With that size bolt in that application I dont it will be an issue...but the benefit of a shanked bolt is that it takes the load bearing off the thread and thread transition area because the shank passes through both shears and the load rides on the shank (strongest) part of the bolt. In your application the load is on the thread transition point since the nut is held fixed...but like I said doubt it will be an issue with that size bolt.

Great parts by the way, I really like your work.