Nighthawk!

[birdco85]

Well i was cleaning the garage and found the dust cap for my slip shaft on the ground... Not sure why it would've popped out. The thought didn't bind at all. Are there any options other than full disassembly again?

Too much droop or using a spring as a c-clip eliminator.

My Bronco body is shifted to one side also. It has been repaired on one side so it's probably been in an accident or rolled. Hoping new body mounts fix it, if not I'll figure something else out.

Yeah I figured when I was cycling everything for the straps is when it happened. And I bought the springs from bronco graveyard to do the c clip eliminator but decided not to put it in until I do gears. Damn. I'll run it this weekend then pull it apart again to fix it. Sucks that everything needs to come off again. At least I put a drain in the differential.

And I did the frame measurement thing to the ground in a bunch if different spots and measured diagonally. It appears to be straight. Hopefully it's just loosen the body mounts and straighten it out.

[birdco85]

Well maiden voyage has been pretty successful. Did about 100 dirt miles yesterday. A little of everything, rocks, sand, and fast dirt roads. Bronco has soaked everything up. Gonna soften the valving on the front, maybe a 30/60 stack. It's a 50/70 right now. The back did awesome though.

Also got it aligned just before I came, passenger side kept the 0* eccentric, driver got a 1-3/4* . It's sucked the tire in a ton so now they are pretty much even. Still a little off. A collision place looked at it and said the body definitely isn't square with frame and they qouted me 2 hours to fix it. $100 total. I'm gonna see what they would charge to just put poly body mounts in. The factory ones are pretty squished.

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[birdco85]

Well now the back window won't roll down the last inch or so so I can't open the tailgate. Time to do some research

[Rmc]

The window motor is tripped off the tailgate closed switch. Sounds like while you were romping it it came just a little unclosed on the drivers side clasp. When this happens to me I remove the center cover, unlock the tail gate by hand then push the bottom in with one hand and twist the key to get it all the way down with the other hand. One of these days I'll jumper out the switch to always read tail gate latch closed.

[Rmc]

Push the switch plunger* not the bottom typo above.

[birdco85]

Thanks RMC. It started working again. I'm gonna pull the tailgate cover off to check things just in case.

Also, I'm having trouble getting the tank full, I can only fun the filler on the first click, if I go any faster it just clicks off. Plus, if I try to top it off it just comes out the filler neck, but the tank still isn't full. Any ideas?

I've been talking to mirage as well about shock tuning. They suggested leaving the 50/70 (.010/.012) stack up front with a flutter on compression. They suggested a 90/90 (.015/.015) in the rear and adjust the bypasses accordingly. I'm also putting a standard check valve in place of the gold valve on compression. Eventually I'll have Fox add a tube on them.

So any ideas on the fuel vent problem?

[Rmc]

Vent tube sounds kinked or clogged.

[birdco85]

The evap vent?

[birdco85]

Well got the seats Jon, awesome and super comfortable! Gonna call Mastercraft tomorrow to see how much it would be to freshen the driver side and add lumbar.

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I also checked the charcoal canister for the evap and it was just hanging by the lines. The top was melted away from what looks like battery acid and the mounting tab was rotted off. Also saw that the evap line entering the TB was totally rotted. Replaced that and jb welded the canister and was able to mount it again. I wonder if that will help the fuel fill issue.

[birdco85]

Forgot to mention, revalved all shocks. Fronts are 50/70 (.010/.012)with a flutter on compression. Rears are 90/90 (.015/.015)with the standard check valve now in place for the comp tubes. The original valves in the bypasses were a 35/60 (.008 first 2 shims then .010/.010 first 2 then .012) so if the front is still too stiff I'll throw those stacks in the front. I found out when putting the flutters in that the driver side had a 30/50 (.008/.010) and the passenger was a 50/70. Glad I took them apart. Both bearing caps said 50/70.

Heading to ocotillo wells this weekend so I'll give it a good shake down. Guys trip so I won't have to worry about the kids in the back!

[birdco85]

Well Mastercraft moved to Indiana. Now a $100/seat tune up is now $300 Ish with shipping. I'm really ticked about that.

I need the seat cords tightened for the driver seat. Anyone know how to do that?

[dtbback]

Dang that sucks!! Shipping is a killer.

[birdco85]

Well got my last minute prep stuff done for this weekend. Tow hooks on the front and relocated the front reservoirs. They were hitting the intake tube and running a dent into it.

Anyway, I'm gonna video it this weekend so I can tune the shocks better. And I'm diggin the sleeper look. Just want to do the back bumper.

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[dtbback]

Looking good!!

[jkrell]

Seats lookin' good in there! Bummer about the cost of a tune up! I bet its not tough to just tighten them up a bit, but really they seemed comfy and good to me so i'm surprised you want to mess with them.

[birdco85]

They are comfy. Only things are I usually need lumbar and the foam for the driver seat bottom outside bolster could be replaced. Sitting in both you can tell the passenger is definitely tighter for obvious reasons. Just wanted it freshened up.

[birdco85]

So I've realized I need gears in this pig. Going to do 4.88 and a locker. Question though, I'm not pushing high horsepower so would one of the lunch box lockers be fine? I don't want to put too much money into this because a 9" will happen eventually. I'm sticking with 35's and have no plans to go bigger.

Any thoughts? Or should I drop the cash for a Detroit.

[dtbback]

I just picked up some 4.56s from Tony. He said that they were plenty for running 35s with the E4OD. Also when I spoke with him he said that he was going back to alimited slip from a locker in the rear because he didn't like how the locker would engage/disengage when he was driving on the road. Also he said that when he had the limited slip before that he felt it was more than up to the job.

[Tanner287]

Yesterday was really the first day on the bronco since its been back together and I didn't do many dirt miles cus of my sink hole adventure but I put on a few street miles, 2 times the rear end kicked at me, pretty hard. I thought something was wrong but a buddy told me that it was the locker. I wouldn't like that if my bronco was more of a street truck

[De$ertBronco]

i have 4.88's and a yukon locker with 35's... i love driving mine with the 4.88's! lots of power off the line and under 3k cruising 70-75mph on the freeway. the only time you can really feel my locker engage is punching it in a turn. driving normal in turns doesn't really lock up and jerk you and you don't hear/feel all the ratcheting i am used to with my past lockers. pretty stoked on the yukon!