Re: Camel Joe Bronco 78
Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:27 am
Looking good!
https://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/
https://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1150
Thanks for the info that's a good write up! So after a bunch of re search and asking around I decided to go with the ORW kit. It's a speedway bar with deeper splines so you can run 2 arms per side to prevent stripped splines. My plan is to run it under the spare tire in that open tube on the back half. That has been the plan from the beginning so I hope it works out in that spot. I also got the fuel cell and filler/splash guard all done the way my rulebook said. Did more tubes on the back half and engine cage, and made a quick trans cooler mount up front with a free cooler I had at the dealership. Going to try to finish installing my dual stick kit on my transfer case tomorrow and do some more fab work.Rmc wrote:Ok so the lowdown on sway bars is the larger the dia the higher the resistance to flex. Most recommend buying full diameter at say 31 splines or whatever and test it, turn it down on a lathe, test it... Repeat till it's the way you want it. I called currie in the past due to the affordability of their kit. I told them it was for a 4 linked truck and they talked me out of it saying I'd fatigue the bar quickly and it would fail. The guy explained it was for lighter weight vehicles. So I know that dosnt really apply to your application but remember there's no real weight in the back of a linked truck. I looked at pretty much everyone's kits, parts, ect. And what I concluded was buy ruff stuff bar ends ( they sell splined blocks to base the link arms off when fabricating your own arms) and get a speedway bar due to much better length availability. Speedway has a bit more flexibility when choosing the bar length so this availability of different lengths better solves the packaging issues. Mounting a more generic bar or kit kinda makes life harder for the builder cause the more generic kits are standardized to jeep frame rail widths. If I were in your shoes if figure out how and where you want to mount it as step one, the the actual bar you end up buying will have taken into account the packaging restrictions due to your chassis design.
So please understand I'm not telling you don't get either kit instead I'm sying figure out how and where you plan on mounting it and choose the bar accordingly. Actual torsional resistance applied can be dealt with in the testing phase of your build. I'll grab you a link to the bar ends and bars.