Trevor's 94 Project

[1971Ford]

Been slammed at work building racetruck stuffs during the week and welding ultra-4's back together on the weekend.


Was able to spend today eating grinding dust though. Because i seem to care more about the fab on my trucks than actually using the trucks for what they're intended for... i decided to re-do much of the welds on the TTB that the builder of them laid down many moons ago. In addition to fixing numerous issues. Couldn't stand them. Gouged out the radius arm welds and half of the TTB welds, cleaned them up the best i could without dumping too much time into them, opened up the passenger TTB axle shaft hole, plated the bottom of the driver TTB, and added bump strike pads to the radius arms.
Still have to re-do the coilover tabs, box the passenger side TTB, chase the radius arm bolt holes, and cut the bushings out and weld in uniballs.

Picked up the 4.56 gears and such for the dropout. Hoping to have it back sometime this week with fresh gears, seals, etc.

Also got all 5 35" BFG AT'S mounted to the new wheels. The weight difference between the 35 BFG AT on outlaw II vs the locked 37's that were on it is insane.... i can't wait to drive it with epicly lighter tire/wheel combo. On top of a new proper functioning front end.

















"But bro, it's TIG"

[Wrightracing.net]

I like the old Outlaw 2 rims. I have a set of 5 of them with 35" Baja TA's on them that are fly cut and drilled for 5/8" studs for my Bronco. I also have some Craigar Black soft 8 rims which I like also.

I have considered the 37" tires but I am not sure. I like to go fast and the Bronco would be prone to problems with the heavier tires.

[ChaseTruck754]

Because i seem to care more about the fab on my trucks than actually using the trucks for what they're intended for...

Hey now - I resemble that remark

New welds do look much better though!

[1971Ford]

hmm

[Wrightracing.net]

Are those the Dana factory welds? We cut the factory cup out and replaced it with a 7/8" uniball cup and plated the open side of the beam. All Tig welded.

[Rmc]

The way I did that job recently was I took a 5/8 bar and turned the diameter down on a portion to 1/4". I used the rod as a guide through the center bushing for self allignment. I put the guide rod in the holesaw arbor, then put it in the drill press. I put the rod through the bushing eye and cut away. I moved it to my mill due to noise but it worked well.
The bottom one is just post holesaw cut, the one on the top is after hitting the inside remaining material with the flap wheel. It may be too late but if not you may consider this process. Hope it helps.

[Rmc]

You'll want the guide blank longer than the holesaw by an inch or so to help make lining it up easier if you decide to try it this way.

[VintageIronFab]

Nice welds man!

[philofab]

Well, that's a new way to do that.

I've done it with the hole saw and also with a torch. The torch is the fastest and you can't even tell after it's welded.

[1971Ford]

I thought about rigging up the home saw in such a way but worried it would turn into a waste of time being that the home needed is the same diameter as the wall of the bushing deal do I went at it with the plasma and cutoff. One side is done and the other is close. Lots of fire grinding! The home saw looks very clean nice job

[1971Ford]

Lathe'd down the cups, lathe'd down some misalignments, measured out for the uniballs to replicate old bushing placement (hopefully i nailed it as i well as i think), tacked in the uniballs, cycled the beams on the bronco, celebrated an extremely smooth cycle from bump to strap with no changes or clearancing needed, welded the uniballs in, and boxed the passenger TTB.
Now i need to do some more gouging/welding, and re-do the coilover tabs and the beams are done. Then some frame pivot plating, and powdercoat and i can drop the freshly geared third in and reassemble the whole mess... and begin on the rear.

[Wrightracing.net]

Looks good!!!!!

[Baja]

Awesome

[1971Ford]

Plated all the beam pivots on the frame.
Cut off the old quick and easy shock tabs. Made new tabs. Much mo betta.
Cleaner, stronger.


Now all that's left is a tad bit more clean up, powder coat, and re-assembly. After I re-paint the frame and paint the engine cage..

[1971Ford]

Didn't get the beams back from powdercoat yet, and headed down to so-cal this weekend so i'll have to get it together early next week.
Did get most of everything else done up front though.

Machined 2 sets of delrin bushings for the engine cage crossover


All TTB pivots plated and cleaned up


Can never have too many core support braces...



Stripped all the old paint off the frame, prepped and re-painted the frame as well as the engine cage. That was quite tricky.
Also built a mount for the big fuse box, mount for the smog vacuum things and a mount for the charcoal canister

[-JD5353-]

Super nice work. What paint did you use for the engine cage and frame that looks really good.

[ChiroMatt]

Awesome work!

[1971Ford]

Thanks
It's just 2 in 1 rustoleum rattlecan

I'll get better pictures up but got the parts back from powdercoat, geared diff back, and assembled the front end and drove it.
This thing is so epicly fun even on the street. Kills me

[yikes]

Broncos....epicly fun.

[1971Ford]

Mounted the third seat today. All removable using the factory bench mounting points so the bench can be put back in, or everything pulled for camping. Bummed i wont get to enjoy fun 3 seat whoop eating parties.



Had to cut the hangers off to 360 weld the b-pillar.
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