96 Bronco - Project "Cheryl"

hobbyturnedobsession · Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:20 pm

Tony brings a valid point. You'll need a cross brace that ties it in.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:09 am

what do you all have in mind?? I could delete the center point and then just bolt them to the side plates?? Im using 1 3/4"-.120 wall tubing. I could bring it into the crossbar that sits right in front of tube?

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:16 am

I think most of them like that have flange plates at the ends that bolt on like your saying. I've seen a few the way you did yours though too. I've never ran one so I have no idea. Look at a picture of threats and make one. I haven't heard of one failing yet.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:45 am

Yea I just looked-- thats stupid easy to make!

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 2:15 am

The one I got from John at Autofab almost 20 years ago is just a 1.75 .120 dom tube with 3/8 plate flanges welded on the ends. It also has matching plate to go on the outside of the frame and has 3 5/8 grade 8 bolts through the frame on each side. I ran 10in stroke Bilstiens for many year until the new ground up build.

I could jump at pismo all day long. Never broke the rear but the front was weak Rancho radius arms I had to plate and reweld.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 3:44 am

Start of the front bumper frame mounts....

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:22 pm

I had a set of 4.56 gears put in my rear end-- well worth the $150 labor bill. When I got it home I took off the cover to pull the axles because one of them is bad. Go on youtube to see the process. The rear end looks nothng like the factory rear LSD. What I found was this-- and after some interweb verification I am about 99% sure I have a Detroit Tru-trac-- is that GREAT or what !!!

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 8:13 pm

You got it on wheels agian?

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 10:55 pm

Painted up parts ready for install...

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:22 am

Nice!!

DirtFiend602 · Post by **DirtFiend602** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:51 pm

That is either a torsen t2 or truetrac... either way a fantastic rear diff setup!!! I just recently had my first experience with the worm gear style diffs... and I dont think ill ever go back to anything else... supports up to 500 hp... no replaceable parts to go bad... and you get the open wheel effect around corner... those spur gears rotate around the worm gears until rotational force is applied to the yoke then everything binds and rotates the whole carrier... so cool!!! Only downside ive found is when articulating if a rear wheel comes off the ground you lose all traction... but grabbing a little rear brake allows the torque transfer again... awesome!!!

DirtFiend602 · Post by **DirtFiend602** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:53 pm

on a second look it looks like a detroit locker, i dont see the worm gears

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:24 pm

Well I was pulling the motor mounts because I had a set of the sexy bushing style on hand --- looks like it was about their time

I was able to get the final gunk off the engine where the old mounts died-- yep those gloves are super sweet

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:27 pm

Ponied up for the racey rotors-- never used a drilled/slotted rotors so I look forward and getting an idea about how they work.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Thu Feb 06, 2014 3:33 pm

Watch the rotors fro cracks between the drilled spots. Not sure if it's still a common problem, but it was about 7 years ago when we were 1st using these.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:27 am

Got the rear stance done and the trussed rear diff buttoned up...

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:29 am

Looking good

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:38 pm

Pics of the front bumper. For the skidplate I can bend up to 32" in my press but the i.d. of the bumper is 33.25"-- imagine that something going off without a hitch

Gonna see tomorrow if a place I buy steel from can bend the full 33.25" skidplate. The side pics look like I totally whiffed the front bumper angle in regard to mirroring the front fender-- I actually went out and double checked it to make sure and its dead on-- not sure why the pic looks so off

Not sure about the flare holes on the front or not??? Pretty stoked when I hit 4 bends in a row that are just dead on perfect-- sorry for the gloaty pic - ha!

tcm glx · Post by **tcm glx** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:44 pm

That looks good!!!!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:00 pm

Got my C&T beams all mounted up. Did everything with a zero cam and have just a tad of positive caster with the front end sitting a tad too high in the front-- once the coils settle or swapped its about perfect. Gonna have to get an official alignment to see if I was spot on or way off

96 Bronco - Project "Cheryl"

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Start of the front bumper

Big Discoverty!

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Painted up parts

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Dead Motor Mounts

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Rear end almost done....

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Front Bumper Pics.....

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Beams!