Josh aka greaslifes 86

[93Broncobuff]

Yeeeeeaaaa buuddy!!!! Looks killer!!!!

[323bronco]

Looks good josh !!!!

[greaslife]

Ok now after remarks. What's the best way too see if my tubes are straight after welding the truss tube I really don't want to f things up but if I do I have another housing too start with.

[Rmc]

Measure up the flange diameters, either get a piece of tubing that's straight to pass through or machine reducers for the end caps and pass a bar through. You can use solid stock or tubing but the important thing is making sure the housing is straight. If its a little bit warped you can heat half the diameter of the tubes with oxy/ace and then cool it with soaking wet rags to shrink the tube via the heated side in the desired direction. If its super warped it would need to be put in a big ass press. This job is not for the faint of heart because there's no turning back after you put heat into it. I was going to weld the tubes on mine, do a single bar, 2 small verticle bars between the tube ends and the truss bar and call it done. I was trying to minimize heat input and shrinkage. Ideally it should be put into an allignment jig before the process is started, but at the same time if trussed on the underside I think the trucks weight should squish some misallignment out.

[greaslife]

RMC I think you and I need too hook up for some beers and talk fab.

[Rmc]

Don't assume for a minute my crude ass methods qualify as fab lol

[greaslife]

Don't assume for a minute my crude ass methods qualify as fab lol

Compared too mine you'll feel like a rockstar

[cs_drums]

You can also cut the ends off then weld then in straight with a thru rod. Most rear end shops can do it. If you start by preloading the axle then it cuts down on warping. If you play it in it will warp. Get a length of Chanel than spans from one end to the other then put a bottle jack between the chain and the center section. Crank the jack up to preload. This will help but you still want to use a thru rod to make sure everything is straight.

[greaslife]

Think I mite just add some small tube from the housing too the truss bar and call it good.
Whys the chances of me already being out of alignment.

[cs_drums]

Its not bad to just have a shop do it. I want to say it was $100 to have the end cut and put on straight. I have the guys number that did mine if you want it.

[greaslife]

Thanks man just got put on a wicked tight budget basically I can't spend any more money on it for a while. That's what started this hole thing . I really want a 9 inch and rather not deal with the 8.8 but it's what I got on hand so I'm roiling with it. Just trying too help it last.

[Bondobob]

Before I welded the truss on my Dodge I practiced on an old 8.8....Used a mig with ER70, pre-heated with a map gas torch tested temp with a Harbor Freight IR temp gun. At 350-375. Made a hot pass on the cast and used a needle scaler to peen it right after I set the gun down.....Then slowly let it cool keeping Map gas torch on area and using IR to validate temps from 375-350-325-300-275-250-225-200 in 3-5 minute increments.. Not scientific but hey so far so good, we will see if my truss holds up in Pismo next weekend.

[Rmc]

Sounds like you did it correct to me Bob. It should have cracked upon cooling if cooled to quickly I would imagine.

[Rmc]

What about a gusset to the truss that utilizes the diff cover bolts holes to support the center section? Like this Chevy rear end.

[ChaseTruck754]

looks like that would work.

How does it work with the diff. cover sealing or getting it on/off though?

[Rmc]

Gusset I would imagine goes on the back of the cover sandwiched. Just grind the little lip on the cover and good to go. Don't forget the gasket sealer but this would limit heat input to the center section and the trucks weight would probably squish out the small amount of draw ( warpage) added by the truss. It could be fashioned to be bolt on on both sides if he wanted to invest the time drilling and tapping. I don't think 4 small circles would cause a whole lot of shrinkage anyway but if the center were welded long wise you bet it would warp.

[ChaseTruck754]

I was gonna say - it would have to bolt to both the truss tube & the cover to get the cover off & on it seems.

[Rmc]

Lol well.. Easily at least. Prybar? Lol.
Ya I would take a strip of 1/4 plate and weld it in. Either cut it in or bend it to have 2 radius's and bend it like 20 degrees or something. Similar to a vw steering box mount.

[ESHALLBETTER]

I would make the diff cover bolt flange from 3/16" steel, and have it extend up and bolt through some slugs in the tube. I would then fabricate the diff cover out of .125 steel welded to the diff cover bolt flange. Does this make sense? Maybe I can find a picture of somthing similar....

[ESHALLBETTER]

conceptually the same as this...