GoFastBroncos.com

To purchase... Just shell or with all hardware minus glass. Where to buy on the internet? I've heard its a nightmare to replace a tail gate. Need for 96 bronco. Thanks

We’ll eventually replace the tailgate on Wilson with a fiberglass unit from Autofab.

The Autofab units are very nice. So much lighter.

When you replace it, take to opportunity to ditch the safety switch's.

BDKW1 wrote:The Autofab units are very nice. So much lighter.

When you replace it, take to opportunity to ditch the safety switch's.

Any other tailgate tips? I am about to toss out my non functioning rust gate for a functioning one.

BDKW1 wrote:The Autofab units are very nice. So much lighter.

When you replace it, take to opportunity to ditch the safety switch's.

Good call. Have you transferred everything yourself? I'm wondering what the time investment is.

The best tailgate is a working one you don't have to screw with. That said, I too have some tailgates to deal with. Jim & Paige's Bronco needs an Ehmke special, and Mom & Dad's Thanksgiving Bronco needs an OE rehab to include a new outer because the spare tire holder split the seam.

Sounds like we need an Autofab group buy. There's a paint shop right next door to them, so we can get the 'glass shells pre-painted and have a tailgate rehab weekend party at Rugged!

Steven?

1Hondalover wrote:The best tailgate is a working one you don't have to screw with. That said, I too have some tailgates to deal with. Jim & Paige's Bronco needs an Ehmke special, and Mom & Dad's Thanksgiving Bronco needs an OE rehab to include a new outer because the spare tire holder split the seam.

Sounds like we need an Autofab group buy. There's a paint shop right next door to them, so we can get the 'glass shells pre-painted and have a tailgate rehab weekend party at Rugged!

Steven?

Hell no. I'm not wondering how long it will take me. I'm just trying to figure out what it's going to cost to pay someone else to do it!

Yeah I don't want much to do with the mechanics of it either Steven. Wish I had that kind of time. Let me know if you find someone who knows what they're doing, I may give 'em a crack too.

But there's still that group buy thing......

ThrustMaster wrote:Any other tailgate tips? I am about to toss out my non functioning rust gate for a functioning one.

Yeah, put a brand new factory window motor in it. It really sucks ass when they die in the down position. Only slightly less in the up position.

1Hondalover wrote:Yeah I don't want much to do with the mechanics of it either Steven. Wish I had that kind of time. Let me know if you find someone who knows what they're doing, I may give 'em a crack too.

But there's still that group buy thing......

I can’t imagine the price of the tailgate will drop much, but I have someone in mind to do the swap for us. Maybe we can have him do both for us since the second will be significantly faster after having just done one.

OK please keep me posted.

Well, I've replaced everything except the window regulator and motor in mine. It's not SO awful.

If someone wants to replace my oil pan gasket, i'll assemble your tailgate lol.

Is the Autofab one up to the task of the same abuse a steel one would endure? Can it handle the factory spare tire gate? Do slots need to be cut for weather-stripping etc?

The factory tail gates aren't up to holding the spare. I would not attach the spare to any tailgate, much better to go to the bumper. If you put an aluminum panel on them the are pretty sturdy. You can stand and sit on them without issue.

BDKW1 wrote:The factory tail gates aren't up to holding the spare. I would not attach the spare to any tailgate, much better to go to the bumper. If you put an aluminum panel on them the are pretty sturdy. You can stand and sit on them without issue.

Some of the Desolate rigs with the spare tire support seem to be holding up 35’s ok. Same with a couple Solo rigs. Granted, these are single coil over leaf sprung trucks, so they’re not full race bashed rigs either.

The trick is to build a little “step” on the rear bumper that the tire rests some of its weight on.





Seems to hold up fairly well despite the body being on rubber bushings and the bumper solid mounted to the frame.

Tchajagos wrote:The trick is to build a little “step” on the rear bumper that the tire rests some of its weight on.





Seems to hold up fairly well despite the body being on rubber bushings and the bumper solid mounted to the frame.

That's exactly what i was thinking of! Good pictures of it too.

Travis
Are there any plain to make a kit for oem rear bumpers ?

The fiberglass “shell” of the tailgate won’t likely hold up to use of the factory tiregate hardware attachment. I’ve been using one of John’s fiberglass tailgates for over 4 years. Only issue i’ve had was that my limit/strap cables were not exact so it loaded the driver side pin more and pulled it in the glass shell. I bought it used and it saw lots of use before I put it my Bronco. Also the nutserts can rust/oxidize.. Mine seized up and I broke a few in disassembly. This might be just a one off since it was used. The insert I’m using is Sanatec HDPE flat”cutting”board. Easy to work with and perfect for cutting limes for that cold beverage.

Mine is bowed out from the center as if weight caused the bow when in down position. If you look down to the seal from the inside, there is about an inch in the center. Causing the window to not track up or down and the breaker goes off when trying to use the window. Anybody have any ideas on how to UN-bow a tail gate. I don't have tire mount on tailgate.its crazy to me how many problems these tail gates have.......

The issue I see with the add on tire support step Travis showed is what do you do with a different tire brand, inflation amount or tread wear? You're either going to be heavily preloading the hardware with a newer/more tread/highly inflated tire, or not have the support with the opposite. I guess it is a spare after all, so chances are the same tire will be there for years, but something worth considering.