1450 Bronco rear leaf
Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 10:06 pm
Basic Stats:
Location: San Diego, Ca
1986 Bronco, with 96' front clip.
Fiberglass hood front and rear fenders.
Full 2" cage.
86 Bronco 1450 class 351w (393 Stroker - Carb), HEI, MSD 6AL, Ford Racing Crate, Iron heads and block, Aluminum intake, crappy hooker shorty headers.
C6, BW1345, B&M 80842 Pro Ratchet; Automatic Shifter
Rear: Coleman 9" full floater 35 spline n spool-5.13 ratio, 35's on 15inch wheels,Rear 3" Deavers SOA, anti-wrap shock.
Front: dana44 cut n turn, Double Swing arm steering, coilovers 2.5 ADS 450/450lbs springs, no bypass shocks front.
PRP seats, ADS Racing Shocks, Wilwood superlites II (rear), CNC dual master cylinders, UMP 4" (way to small for that engine), Fresh Air, intercom, race radio, 2 fire Ext, have a Fire suppression system to install.
38 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, double Holly red fuel pumps w/check valves.
oil, trans coolers,
When I got it was a mess, wiring everywhere, holes in the fire walls, etc.
The C6 Trans is a sledge hammer barks the tires on the 2-3 shift every-time.
The engine is strong has a mild RV cam (guessing), I say strong as I have 10 sec 750hp Charger, so its not that strong for sure but it does go. (If I could only put that charger engine in the Bronco! how ever its supercharged so thats a no go. --- hot rod dreams)
Goal: I want to race it in class 2000 and Class 3, Norra 500, and such. I don't have lots of money behind me, just my own blue collar money. Have some basic fabrication skills, and reasonable mechanic.
I'm hoping some of the many experts on here can give me an education going forward. I believe the suspension needs the most work (money).
First, it the rig too high? There is a lot of space between the frame and bump stops that is unused. On the rear is about 12" of usable space that is prevented. Front is a good 6" of uptravel that is prevented. It's always on the bumps, about an inch of uptravel before hitting them. Someone said that is good as it works like a sway bar. (I'm thinking sway bars work like sway bars) But, maybe I'm wrong?
Is there a post on setting ride height?
It seems that the rear shocks should be moved outboard to the leafs, more leverage.
Having spoken to Geoff at Giant Motor Sports, the future is to use his Link Killer set up.
Second, is to install a third seat which means a rear cage.
Third to move the spare tires further back and lower.
Location: San Diego, Ca
1986 Bronco, with 96' front clip.
Fiberglass hood front and rear fenders.
Full 2" cage.
86 Bronco 1450 class 351w (393 Stroker - Carb), HEI, MSD 6AL, Ford Racing Crate, Iron heads and block, Aluminum intake, crappy hooker shorty headers.
C6, BW1345, B&M 80842 Pro Ratchet; Automatic Shifter
Rear: Coleman 9" full floater 35 spline n spool-5.13 ratio, 35's on 15inch wheels,Rear 3" Deavers SOA, anti-wrap shock.
Front: dana44 cut n turn, Double Swing arm steering, coilovers 2.5 ADS 450/450lbs springs, no bypass shocks front.
PRP seats, ADS Racing Shocks, Wilwood superlites II (rear), CNC dual master cylinders, UMP 4" (way to small for that engine), Fresh Air, intercom, race radio, 2 fire Ext, have a Fire suppression system to install.
38 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, double Holly red fuel pumps w/check valves.
oil, trans coolers,
When I got it was a mess, wiring everywhere, holes in the fire walls, etc.
The C6 Trans is a sledge hammer barks the tires on the 2-3 shift every-time.
The engine is strong has a mild RV cam (guessing), I say strong as I have 10 sec 750hp Charger, so its not that strong for sure but it does go. (If I could only put that charger engine in the Bronco! how ever its supercharged so thats a no go. --- hot rod dreams)
Goal: I want to race it in class 2000 and Class 3, Norra 500, and such. I don't have lots of money behind me, just my own blue collar money. Have some basic fabrication skills, and reasonable mechanic.
I'm hoping some of the many experts on here can give me an education going forward. I believe the suspension needs the most work (money).
First, it the rig too high? There is a lot of space between the frame and bump stops that is unused. On the rear is about 12" of usable space that is prevented. Front is a good 6" of uptravel that is prevented. It's always on the bumps, about an inch of uptravel before hitting them. Someone said that is good as it works like a sway bar. (I'm thinking sway bars work like sway bars) But, maybe I'm wrong?
Is there a post on setting ride height?
It seems that the rear shocks should be moved outboard to the leafs, more leverage.
Having spoken to Geoff at Giant Motor Sports, the future is to use his Link Killer set up.
Second, is to install a third seat which means a rear cage.
Third to move the spare tires further back and lower.