65 Ford Falcon Squire Wagon

[SteveG]

Great link, Rick! I just might have to give that a shot. There's a place in SoCal that sells replica dark wood grain vinyl for these and they also refinish the trim. I don't know what the refinishing costs, though. I'm sure it's not cheap. The process on that link looks totally doable. I had figured something like that would work but I didn't know what product to use. Thanks for the link!

[SteveG]

Man, there's a ton of good info on that site, Rick. Thanks again.

[SteveG]

I took a break from working on the Bronco and wiring harness while I gather some info and decipher a few circuits.

The original plan was to strip off all the brushed primer and spray it after. I decided that was way too much work for a half, no make that sixteenth-ass effort paint job. The plan also included a brighter color but black is easy. I'm using ultra-flat black and for the moment painting the body roof and "wood" molding. Later I'm going to refinish the wood molding to look like wood again (using the method Rick linked). I ended up just doing a very quick wet sand and wet scotch brite job to clean up some of the brush strokes. It turned out surprisingly well for only working on it for about an hour.

I'll still be painting the roof gloss white but that will be later. For now I just want to make it more presentable.

I sanded the front fender and both doors in this picture... then threw a couple light coats on it to see how it's going to look,

[philofab]

It's all about the radial long board.

[SteveG]

It's all about the radial long board.

That would be perfect on this car. It's got lots of long and straight body lines.

[yikes]

Update?

[SteveG]

Let me go take a picture....

[SteveG]

I can't get a good picture. I'll do it tomorrow. I've only painted one side from the top body line down. I'm going to try to do the other side tomorrow and the rear of the car next week (which will require the removal of parts and some masking. So far the paint work has been drive-by style.

[SteveG]

Update picture for Brian. I still need to strip the primer from the script and put those back on. Both "Falcon" scripts broke during removal. Luckily the mostly irreplaceable "Squire" script made it out OK. Although one of the pins did break on one side, but hopefully it'll be OK without it.

I"m really looking forward to lowering it and putting some different wheels and tires on it... it'll make a big difference.

[johncharlesb]

If you plan on lowering it, you may want to look into the "Shelby drop" while you are at it. It will greatly improve the camber. These cars had evil positive camber stock. The modification lowers later cars (67+) about 3/4", unsure about the earlier cars. I did it on the Cougar, it was pretty easy, just redrill the top arm mounts 1" lower. The Cougar has been lowered too, about 3" total. Your earlier car upper arms needs to go both lower and back though. The templates are around online. If you can't find them I will see if they are on my old computer. If you want to get real serious you can get the Boss 302 chassis modification manual. It is available in reprint. I do have a scanned copy on my old computer, but it is really too inexpensive for that. It applies to the 1970 Mustangs and Cougars to run in A sedan, but a lot of the tech transfers over to the early cars. They do have a section on cutting the springs or you can get replacement ones. They both will get you to a slightly stiffer rate, around 600lbs if I recall correctly. Take a look at those shock towers where they meet the frame where you are down there, they are prone to cracking and pullling away from the frame.

[philofab]

I need to look through my junk. I think I have a good falcon emblem somewhere from a car I shaved a bunch of stuff on. If I can find it you can have it Steve!

[SteveG]

Thanks for the info, John. I'll look into that book. I've always found it amusing how these cars feel like they're going to spit you out of the seat when going around corners. I was already planning on the Shelby mod. A friend has the template, so it'll be easy. I also plan on a big sway bar on the front and a good set of mono-tube shocks. It's a bummer Bilstein doesn't make anything to fit this as they're my first choice.

To lower it I'll just cut the coils. I've had good luck with that in the past and I want more spring rate anyway. My concern is that I won't be able to get it as low as I want... might need to go air bags. The rear is easy... lowering blocks, mono-tube shocks and an air bag for heavier loads.

[SteveG]

I need to look through my junk. I think I have a good falcon emblem somewhere from a car I shaved a bunch of stuff on. If I can find it you can have it Steve!

Sweet!

[Phoenix0783]

To lower it I'll just cut the coils. I've had good luck with that in the past and I want more spring rate anyway. My concern is that I won't be able to get it as low as I want... might need to go air bags. The rear is easy... lowering blocks, mono-tube shocks and an air bag for heavier loads.

check out eaton detroit springs. I got springs for my Comet from them. You've probably heard of them, but dearborn classics has a bunch of stuff for old fords.

[johncharlesb]

Are you planning the Granada brake conversion and going over to 5 lug? If you do pull the Granada sway bar too. It should be 15/16ths. Not too easy to find Granadas anymore though. For shocks, many folks are running KYBs. I am not sure if you can use a Mustang export brace on your year Falcon, I know that some Falcons top braces are different. I cut a coil out of the '70 and it brought it down a bunch, oil pan clearance was minimal, around 4" I guess. I brought it back up a couple of inches. The top balljoint tends to bind if you go down real low.

The Pony cars are setup real loose to get them to power steer, many track cars don't have rear bars. Your car may be more balanced and may benefit from a rear sway bar too. Have you been over to corner-carvers.com yet? Tons of vintage tech there, but what a bunch of flaming arses. There is little to no tolerance of newbies, people that don't search, and the human species in general. There is a good vintage section at corral.net and althought the attitudes are better the tech is much lighter.

[SteveG]

Initially, front discs was one of the first things I was going to do. I was under the impression that the brakes were trashed and would need a major overhaul. Rather than spend money on drum brakes I planned on converting to disc. It turns out the brakes only needed to be adjusted and now they feel excellent. I hate drum brakes with a passion but these work so well that I don't feel the need to convert.

As for a 5-lug conversion, the only reason I'm considering this is for a better wheel selection. If I can find a wheel I like that will fit these hubs then I'll leave it alone.

When I get to lowering it I'll take baby steps. Maybe start with as little as a 1/4 round and progress from there.

[johncharlesb]

http://www.youtube.com/user/jzbandit#p/u/26/43nAModb1GI

[SteveG]

I've seen pictures of that thing. It's way cool. The wheel and tire package are perfect on it. I actually want a bit of a road race look, so that car is good inspiration.

[Wood]

lower that swagger-wagon already

[SteveG]

I just got home from a trip to Carpinteria and back in the wagon. Man is this thing a trooper! Once again she ran like a champ again with zero problems or hesitation. Although, it did start to smoke in Santa Barbara traffic. Which, as everyone knows, BLOWS! It took me about an hour and a half to make all but the last 12 miles. It took me at least an hour to cover those final 12 miles!

The valve seals are definitely bad and cause it to smoke at start-up sometimes or occasionally when I accelerate after it's been idling a while. That's exactly what it was doing in stop and go traffic (much more stop than go). It was a bummer but it was also fun to get dirty looks from the oh-so-green Santa Barbarians....

I think I'll throw some valve seals in it and if it still smokes I'll switch to synthetic so I can't see the oil burning!