1994 F150 (The wife made me do it)

[ChaseTruck754]

F49 I believe will be good, it's a 2.5 wide though but they seem to work well on the newer 150's.

I has thinking about just getting a set of F53's and see how that works.

F49's are for the newer trucks. F53's are the bolt on for the older trucks & work well. Granted the G2's (Giant/Deaver spring under 64's) are also "bolt on" although quite a bit more pricey with Geoff's hangers. They do work pretty dang well though from what I've seen. Unfortunately never got to try mine...

As for the shortening the wheel base - these trucks are a tad long at 139", but if you're going to go through the effort of shortening it I'd say snowball the sucker & link it.
Based on where the frame arches up for the axle at bump you'd have to cut quite a bit of frame out in order to shorten the wheelbase AND get decent bump travel. I'd bet you'd look & just say "screw it" and cut off the rest of the frame at that point.

As I said before - any way you go these trucks look good & seem to function well.

[tcm glx]

That's going to be awesome Pat. I say go 4" beams and rear end. Budget 40 spline floater rear. 17" wheels with big brakes. Stick with 35's unless your budget can handle custom fab'd knuckles. 64" leaf pack to get 22" of travel. 3.0-3.5 bypasses rear. 3" coilover front. Mild 3" glass. Full cage. Stock interior with 3g's. Smart shopping at LeDuc's.

I like this, do all except the cage, run it for a year, and then year 2 do cage and shorten it......hahah

[ChaseTruck754]

I'd say start with the cage. Unless you have much more self control than I do! With that list of parts I'd probably push the thing to where I wanted a cage before I drove it again.

[RyanDS650X]

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6387
Andy is selling his 3.5 BTF beams and radius arms

[ChaseTruck754]

I forgot about thise. Grab um!

[otter]

You guys are killing me.haha. Honestly if I was going to spend the coin for the 64's I would just link it. Then I would have to shorten it.

Brian- How can you use the words "Budget" and "40 Spline full floater" in the same sentence? haha.

I am leaning more towards 4 over up front. Still undecided on the rear.

[nubreed71]

Just for inspiration, here's what 4.5" over (2wd) looks like with 3" Autofab glass. My vote is for wider!

[otter]

nubreed- What springs are you running in the rear?

[cs_drums]

The difference in time and money to link and 64 kit is a lot. That being said you have dialed the link in a couple times do I'm sure your not worried but the addintiol cost of have extra set of shocks is a factor to consider.

JD fab is building the exact truck. Has the 64 kit and shortened wheelbase. Should be pretty rad.

[cs_drums]

For the front I think being it's a long truck I would error on the side of being wider. Maybe get the bitchen Mcqeen glass and max them out with your beams haha

[ChaseTruck754]

JD fab is building the exact truck. Has the 64 kit and shortened wheelbase. Should be pretty rad.

Build thread anywhere? If so - link?

[cs_drums]

They are not big on web/forum. I'll snap a few pics next time I stop by.
Camburg beams
Giant 64
Really clean tight cage work

[otter]

I'd like to see some pictures. Does it still have the stock frame rails? How much did they shorten it?

[cs_drums]

No build thread JD guys aren't big on forums/web stuff. I'll try and snap some pics if it's there next time I stop by. It's got Camburg beam/rads, 64s, 9"ff and some seriously nice cagevwork

[cs_drums]

Stock frame rails. Customer shortened it before he brought it in. Section it right after the cab. Not sure how much. Boxed frame rails to a little past the section.

[nubreed71]

Damn, I'd like to see that too. Might have to go by their shop and check it out.

Pat, the rear setup on mine is Deaver F53's, some extended shackles (6.5" eye to eye if memory serves) and some revised upper shock mounts to allow a 2.5" x 10" weld top 9100 to fit under there. It gets 16" of travel and does pretty good for what it is...but at full bump I'd imagine the shocks are leaned over pretty far horizontally. I'll most likely end up going to either the same current spring/shackle setup and some 2.5x17" 9100 four tube bypasses and a bedcage that hugs the perimeter of the bed for max usable bed space, or will swap out the F53's for a Giant 64" kit if I can find a good deal on one.

[cs_drums]

I just remembered your bronco build thread. Stop kidding your self..... this thing is gettting links!

[otter]

haha. See that's snowball I am trying to avoid.

Stock bed Cantilever F150 anybody?

[cs_drums]

It was between that truck and a bronco when i was deciding what to build and it just so happend o got a good deal on a bronco. Honestly i think if you want to keep it simple then the 64 kit is the way to go. Yeah its not the cheapest set up but it is tons of bang for buck and it is as simple as bolt on. Notch the frame and your at 20+" travel. I would deffinitly shorten the wheel base before anything and I only say deffinitely because as happy as I am with my bronco I do regularly kick my self for not stretching it first. Cause after everything else is done there is way to much to refigure. My $.02

The front is easy.. beams arms steering.
The rear.. Section the frame before the front spring hanger, 64 kit and notch
Cage, bronco gas tank, and full glass. Then all the bells and whistles

[Rmc]

Eyeball the driveline on your truck as we'll ,from what I recall on a friends truck he had issues with the carrier bearing.