Re: 1995 F-150 Build
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 3:23 pm
The internal sleeve portions on yours look way less rusty than the ones I've pulled apart.
https://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/
https://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=9000
Same, the ones I have taken out took much persuasion with a BFH just to get the nuts out of them.ChaseTruck754 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2020 3:23 pmThe internal sleeve portions on yours look way less rusty than the ones I've pulled apart.
no i still dont have seats lol
yeah man i was really surpised with how easily these came apartChaseTruck754 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2020 3:23 pmThe internal sleeve portions on yours look way less rusty than the ones I've pulled apart.
thats what andy had to do with his as well actually hahaChaseTruck754 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 20, 2020 3:31 pmI think the ease in which they came apart is due to how clean they were. I've tried the puller setup like you made with no luck. Had buddies who have used it on 70's stuff and had the puller work. Not me. Out of the handfull of 70's stuff I've done and the 3 broncos ('86, '87 & 96) all were rusty and a major PitA that put up a good fight. I've ended up drilling some, sawzalling others, chiselling one, etc.
thanks man! and yeah i am it has been awhile since ive driven it, my new seats should be here today though so hopefully that means i can adapt the mounts and get them installed by the end of the weekendhobbyturnedobsession wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:32 amI did the ones on my crew cab a while back. The 4 on the cab came out like yours, but the core support bushings on the battery side were a nightmare. I'm sure it took me longer to do the core support bushings than the body bushings. Great looking truck. I bet you're itching to drive it.
also yeah, i think the core support ones were the worst to me also, i removed the fenderwells, and needed a 1/2" impact/breaker bar and a 48" pry bar to lift them enough to get the new bushings in, so worth it though, my doors close like a brand new truck now and i bet the truck will feel a lot more firm while driving nowhobbyturnedobsession wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:32 amI did the ones on my crew cab a while back. The 4 on the cab came out like yours, but the core support bushings on the battery side were a nightmare. I'm sure it took me longer to do the core support bushings than the body bushings. Great looking truck. I bet you're itching to drive it.
I hear you. The driver rear had no form of a body mount left. my cab lines back up with the body lines of the fenders hahah. Did you go with rubber or poly? I did poly and they don't make noise, but the suspension bushings i did do some.S00TLYFE wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 11:45 amalso yeah, i think the core support ones were the worst to me also, i removed the fenderwells, and needed a 1/2" impact/breaker bar and a 48" pry bar to lift them enough to get the new bushings in, so worth it though, my doors close like a brand new truck now and i bet the truck will feel a lot more firm while driving nowhobbyturnedobsession wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:32 amI did the ones on my crew cab a while back. The 4 on the cab came out like yours, but the core support bushings on the battery side were a nightmare. I'm sure it took me longer to do the core support bushings than the body bushings. Great looking truck. I bet you're itching to drive it.
i ended up going with the poly one, ive used their bushings on every other vehicle ive owned and had great results, personally havent noticed the noise either but i figure especially with this thing is its an offroad truck, its going to make all kinds of noisehobbyturnedobsession wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 2:37 pmI hear you. The driver rear had no form of a body mount left. my cab lines back up with the body lines of the fenders hahah. Did you go with rubber or poly? I did poly and they don't make noise, but the suspension bushings i did do some.S00TLYFE wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 11:45 amalso yeah, i think the core support ones were the worst to me also, i removed the fenderwells, and needed a 1/2" impact/breaker bar and a 48" pry bar to lift them enough to get the new bushings in, so worth it though, my doors close like a brand new truck now and i bet the truck will feel a lot more firm while driving nowhobbyturnedobsession wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:32 amI did the ones on my crew cab a while back. The 4 on the cab came out like yours, but the core support bushings on the battery side were a nightmare. I'm sure it took me longer to do the core support bushings than the body bushings. Great looking truck. I bet you're itching to drive it.
I agree with you there. They hold up better than the rubber ones. Some have issues with the sound and the ride / vibration but I didn't notice anything different.S00TLYFE wrote: ↑Thu Oct 22, 2020 9:11 ami ended up going with the poly one, ive used their bushings on every other vehicle ive owned and had great results, personally havent noticed the noise either but i figure especially with this thing is its an offroad truck, its going to make all kinds of noisehobbyturnedobsession wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 2:37 pmI hear you. The driver rear had no form of a body mount left. my cab lines back up with the body lines of the fenders hahah. Did you go with rubber or poly? I did poly and they don't make noise, but the suspension bushings i did do some.S00TLYFE wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 11:45 am
also yeah, i think the core support ones were the worst to me also, i removed the fenderwells, and needed a 1/2" impact/breaker bar and a 48" pry bar to lift them enough to get the new bushings in, so worth it though, my doors close like a brand new truck now and i bet the truck will feel a lot more firm while driving now
thanks for the heads up Steve, i had initially considered that but Andy had done this already and offered to help, plus gave me an excuse to get out of the house and have some guy time haha...but definitely good to know for the future.ChaseTruck754 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 26, 2020 11:42 amThese are done now (and look good), for for those other tall guys out there, you should be able to flip the mounts upside down so the bolt holes on the brackets like these from Solo point down vs. up. As long as the bottom of the seat is still up 2" or more from the cross members on the sliders you should be good
Tried that the first time around. The bottom of the seat would get eaten up on the slider when moved forward and back.ChaseTruck754 wrote:These are done now (and look good), for for those other tall guys out there, you should be able to flip the mounts upside down so the bolt holes on the brackets like these from Solo point down vs. up. As long as the bottom of the seat is still up 2" or more from the cross members on the sliders you should be good