95 F150 - Project Marilyn

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon May 09, 2016 11:18 pm

Thanks- I'd love to but I've got to stay working on this truck to get it up and running again!

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue May 10, 2016 10:08 pm

VintageIronFab wrote:Swinger mockup is well underway!! Huge Thank you to Yikes and RMC for really helping out the process!

Just putting this out there. A lot of guys try to line up the swingers with the axle pivot bolt to minimize bump steer. The issue is that the axle doesn't actually pivot on that line. If you were to draw a line from where the radius arm mount on the frame through the axle pivots that is the line your suspension pivots on. Notice the pitman arm is close to lined up with this line. Not many people realize this and can't figure out why they still have bump steer when their steering is lined up with their beams. I'm sure it doesn't effect like 98% of people. Just a thought.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed May 11, 2016 6:31 am

I see what you're saying but I'm not all together sure what you do to change that being that there are serious packaging concerns-- how does mine look? I can say that the input steering shaft doesn't move in the slightest as it goes through the travel and the toe change was about a 1/4" from what I could tell. I do know that the steering is pretty quick it's about 1 1/8th turns to the left from center and the same going to the right.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Wed May 11, 2016 3:47 pm

It shouldn't be too bad with your set up. Mostly just putting it out there for people to think about. You might find that the passenger side turns in a little less or even negative compared to the driver side. I don't think it's going to effect your truck any. That's interesting about the quicker turning.

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funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Wed May 11, 2016 4:49 pm

you can use the swingers to change your ratio vs changing the ratio in your steering box.

sounds like you have built in quicker steering in swingers, unless the new sag box has a different ratio in it?

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed May 11, 2016 5:03 pm

I honestly am not sure-- I bought the swinger and the pitman arm -- I remade a pitman arm for the Saginaw since it was different than the stock Ford box. The econoline box is either 4.25 or 4.50 lock to lock. I don't have access to my bronco to see if it's 2 turns either direction when everything is hooked up. Basically Yikes and I have the same steering setup - he seems to drive his Bronco everywhere so I will see if I like it after all. Before I did this swinger conversion I really was clueless on what all was involved but now I have a much better understanding of placement and things like arc ratios.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Wed May 11, 2016 5:04 pm

Are you running a steering quickener, I have a Howe Racing heavy duty unit 2:1 for my Bronco
And I plan to do a similar steering to yours.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed May 11, 2016 8:57 pm

I couldn't imagine wanting quicker than it is now honestly. Mine is stock from the lower steering shaft on up. Here's the pitman dimensions-- the swinger is the same to a 1/16"

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed May 11, 2016 9:14 pm

: image.jpeg (786.1 KiB) Viewed 2151 times

Needing the full-race steering look of course you gotta rock a QR steering wheel hub

Not wanting to weld the adapter I cut the center out of a JY wheel and turned it down to 7/8" -- the splined shaft and hub from Nexgen is a 7/8" version vs the typical 3/4". Just makes the whole assembly bolt on vs. weld on and allows all the replacement steering columns I need if I wear one out.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Tue May 17, 2016 3:29 pm

cool trick on the quick release!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed May 18, 2016 6:33 pm

Thx- it would prob work on about any wheel I would guess!

zachwabbit · Post by **zachwabbit** » Thu May 19, 2016 6:49 pm

That Sparco wheel looks suuuhwweeeeet

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Thu May 26, 2016 8:44 pm

Got the drivers side glass how I liked it. Hex bolt are just for mockup

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 4:55 pm

Some pics of the bumper I've been working on with a rolled front and a radiused 40" LED light bar. Building the frame horn style has been really tough with the radius. Hopefully it looks cool

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 5:10 pm

Anyone want to comment on which style end they like the best-- I marked the options A, B or C.....

yikes · Post by **yikes** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:18 pm

A+ an inch or so if you want to keep the fenders in good shape. Brush and fiberglass don't play well, which is why I built mine directly in front of them. Just have to scrape some green off from time to time.

RyanDS650X · Post by **RyanDS650X** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:30 pm

"A" gets my vote and Brian makes a good point.

biggiek · Post by **biggiek** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:38 pm

Are you running a bolt through the frame horns to mount? I just picked up one from a friend and he welded it to them... yet I would prefer to bolt it to the horn.

biggiek · Post by **biggiek** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:38 pm

Also looks great!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:31 pm

Well A is by FAR the easiest method so I'll prob go that route.

As far as the mounts - yes they are thru bolted but I may change that to some kind of a doubler plate so that 4 bolts hold it in place -2 on each side. If you look at Nubreeds trucks - that mount is vastly easier and faster to build vs what I did and quite frankly really strong. I would say my method is stronger but if his style is damaged its so much faster to fix-- mine gets damaged I'm building all new I would guess