GoFastBroncos.com

who sells longer axles for ttb i am building a set of beams and will need to get the axles made. i can get the axle blanks and was goin to stop by currie to see if they can spline them but can you guys think of anybody else.
thanks

home made works fine. it's easy. go-fast front axles are under much less stress than compound low range rock crawler axles.

take two sets of junk yard axles. cut them each so the pieces will make up the length you need. v-cut the ends and place them in a piece of angle iron to align them and weld them up. for racing put a sleeve over the assembly (before welding) with a few holes drilled in the sleeve. weld up the v-cut. grind it round so the sleeve will slip over the seam. center the sleeve and weld it to the axle through the holes. best is to grind out the ends of the sleeve as if you were going to fit it to a tube then weld the end of the sleeve to the axle and the weld will not all be in one radial spot because you have ground the sleeve out.

don't have a picture but it would be more descriptive than these words.

There is nothing special about the axles except the one that goes into the pumpkin on bolt on axle 3rd models. Anyone that makes D44 axles can make them. Call Dutchman. I know they can for sure.

As Chris described...

was discussing this with a buddy today. Has anyone ever looked at taking the 31 spline axles out of a Chevy axle and having the, cut down and re-splined to length? Since only the inner axle would have to be lengthened and Summers Bros. will re-spline the axles for $20 ea. (according to my buddy) - why is this not an option people look at?

Heck - you could take the longer axle out of the TTB and re-spline it to use as an "extended" one on the short side and then only have to get one Chevy axle to re-spline. Still the Chevy axles don't neck down near the yoke like the stock TTB axles so it is a bit stronger to just do both Chevy.

Personally I've never messed with widening a TTB as my "go fast" stuff has always been 2wd or stock width so there may be something my buddy and I weren't seeing that will prevent using the chevy axles, but still I thought I'd throw it out there.

Oh yeah - and if you guys still want to cut and extend ones the way Chris described and don't feel like trying to pull the axles out of a junk yard truck to get the 2nd set - contact me. I can sell you some stock ones...

Aftermarket axles, replined straight axle axles, and welded axles are all options that work.

From the FAA repair manual. For tubes as shown
For a tube the sleeve thickness is usually the same as the parent tube wall thickness.
For a solid shaft homework required to find the wall thickness of the sleeve.
Find the formula for stress in the solid shaft then size the tube sleeve for the same stress.

The details shown are exactly the same for tube or shaft. A close fitting sleeve using weld clearance is acceptable. For a 2 piece sleeve put the sleeves in the vice and make the sleeve fit tight against the shaft. Note the callout for a rossette = plug weld.

I looked and looked and my Roark text book is gone. It is the mechanical engineers hand book for stress formulas. Dirty trick. I bet someone took it off my desk at work - long time ago!. Here is the book
http://www.amazon.com/Roarks-Formulas-S ... 0070725411

Paul

I have used this method on numerous things around the farm with what ever tubing I could find that half way fit. It works very well. Never had a failure.

If you are running twin-traction beams that have been extended, where did you get your axleshafts?

My beams have been extended 4" on each side -- I need to get my hands on some new shafts and am open to suggestion. Any advice is appeciated-

I have the 4" extended Camburg Beams and I went to Solo Motorsports for mine. TIP: Before putting them back in remove a large portion from the center u-joint yoke, otherwise the u-joint will limit your travel a great deal. It's also easier to do this on the workbench and not laying on your back under the truck.
Here's a link to what I'm referring to (LOOK at the very bottom of this page):

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazin ... apring.htm

I would also remove more than what is shown.

i cant find pics of the ones i did for Trevor maybe he can snap one or two
like said before 2 sets and sleeve them. i dont do the v cut but basiclly the same thing...

Here are the axles that Scott did for me

thanks trevor!

Squarehead wrote:If you are running twin-traction beams that have been extended, where did you get your axleshafts?

My beams have been extended 4" on each side -- I need to get my hands on some new shafts and am open to suggestion. Any advice is appeciated-

CTM

http://www.ctmracing.com/

Since the junk yards are full of old F150s and Broncos that have never been used in 4wd that is the place to get your axles. Take your chances. I bet the first ones you get will be like new. Tehn follow the instructions in this thread. No big deal at all.
PaulW
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Squarehead wrote:If you are running twin-traction beams that have been extended, where did you get your axleshafts?

My beams have been extended 4" on each side -- I need to get my hands on some new shafts and am open to suggestion. Any advice is appeciated-

what size tubing did you use for the sleeve?

Wondering what the options are for front axles if you extend front beams by 2 or 4 inches per side. I have seen axles that have been extended by fabricating a spacer to add length but not sure how well that will hold up. Other than that what is price to buy a new set of extended axles?
Thanks.

robjs111 wrote:Wondering what the options are for front axles if you extend front beams by 2 or 4 inches per side. I have seen axles that have been extended by fabricating a spacer to add length but not sure how well that will hold up. Other than that what is price to buy a new set of extended axles?
Thanks.

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Don't think any axle people will take on a one shot long axle. Your best be is make your our out your pares There are threads on gfb that tell you how. They end up stronger and last.
PaulW

Dutchman will make them.

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