How to mount bead locks

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:06 pm

You'll find most tire shop charge a lot to mount bead locks so here's a step by step for the ins who have never been through this labor of love.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:08 pm

Spray the tire down with dish soap and water mixture so it's good and slick. As you can see here I wet the bead edge with a spray bottle filled with soapy water.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:10 pm

Lay the tire over the rim at an angle, then grab the wheel and pull toward the low lying edge firmly.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:15 pm

With your knees slowly work your way to the tires far edge watching the bead slide down. Keep an eye out for the wheel sliding agianst the bead sliding the wheel away from the edge you pulled toward previously. If the wheel shifts get off and agian pull the wheel toward the low lying edge of the bead. Climb back on and begin the slow knee walk toward the tires far edge. If done correctly the tire will slid over the upper lip of the wheel.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:19 pm

At this point grab a 3 lb dead blow hammer to help persuade the upper bead to seat in the reduced diameter of the wheel where the lock ring pinches the bead. Once the inner edge of the bead has been seated all the way around the upper bead diameter place the lock ring on the wheel sandwiching the tire between the wheel lip and lock ring. At this time start 4 bolts at any random equidistant 4 points.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:22 pm

Anti-sieze every bolt and install the washers. Anti-sieze is a critical step due to the bolt holes on the lock ring being through holes on most brands. This exposes them to corrosion and removing them at a later date is no fun when they've rusted into position. Also removing broken bolts is not real fun but that's another matter.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:25 pm

Torque in an alternating pattern to 18ft lbs with a torque wrench. Then repeat the process at 20ft lbs. once all at properly torqued grab an air chuck and start filling the tire. Stand the tire uprite and spray the rims full diameter as well as the bead of the tire.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:27 pm

With the air chuck filling the tire hissing air grab the tire with both hands and push the rim with your knee or your foot. This works ok if the tires aren't too old. Stiffer tires may require another measure which I will cover at the end.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:32 pm

The bead will seat and start sliding over the wheel toward the exposed wheel lip. FOR GOD SAKES KEEP YOU FINGERS OUT OF THE SPACE BETWEEN THE TIRE AND WHEEL AS IT FILLS!!!
At this point 1 of 3 senerios happen. 1st it slides over nice and gently, 2nd a loud pop can be heard as the bead seats or the 3rd highly unlikely senerio but still possible the tire expoldes and you go flying through a wall with shrapnel injuries.
I have mounted many many tires in this manor and no shrapnel so far.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:36 pm

So on very stiff sidewall tires you take a flat strap and place it evenly over the middle of the tire. Wrap the strap around a metal bar and begin to wind the strap tighter and tighter. This will force the center of the tire inward which deforms the shape of the tire forcing the beads to move outward. While filling with air after the dripping wet bead begins to seat allow the air pressure to unwind the bar with you adding light resistance. Once the bead has moved over the rim an inch or so remove the bar. The seating of the bead will follow shortly after.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:42 pm

The strap method also works really well with non beadlock wheels after you have blown a bead in the desert. Remove the tire, add the strap and wind it up. Start filling when visible contact has occurred between the bead edge and rim. Unwind as the air pressure increases.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:43 pm

The end.

robertcrav · Post by **robertcrav** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 10:12 pm

Nice work sir

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 11:34 pm

Thanks Rob!

Post by **SteveG** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:42 am

Good write up. They're not all that hard, just take time....

baja-chris · Post by **baja-chris** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:44 am

Now how do you unseat the bead without a tire machine? Have tried parking the front of a diesel pickup on the sidewall, no luck. So I always end up taking them to a tire shop to break the bead.

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:54 pm

so easy to put on so impossible to take off... yep

I did the 5 gal bucket trick and a shit load of soap but that sucks.... even with me being 290 ish took me forever to do one.....and to the tire shop I went after the one.....hah

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:32 pm

Tire shop or cut them off lol I agree it's a mission to remove them.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:04 pm

I took one of those drive on car ramps and put the high side on the tire next to the bead and drove the truck up on the ramp, it popped the bead right off.

The red ramp under the Bronco is what I use.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:28 pm

Oh like used the ramp as a downward press of sorts?
I saw a vid of a guy using a high lift jack under his bumper for a similar method. Basically a big foot downward press right up near the bead