GoFastBroncos.com

I've discussed this with other members on here in the past and was hoping we could see some pictures of people's steering setup to see how they work. Here's a photo to show what mine looks like with a drop-pitman arm.

Lets see more...

The yellow line is what I would arbitrarily say is where stock would be. Red is with 4-inch and green is with a 6-inch drop.

Keep in mind this is just for a stock width C&T TTB.

You already know what I'm going to say...

I dig those jack stands btw.

I don't actually. I've got a short term memory and if we were at odds about this, it's all gravy.

Jack stands are cool for sure. Unfortunately they aren't mine. They're some of the ones that Solo Motorsports has.

Lets see more pictures because I'm simple minded and love pictures, haha!

You remember augi I went on and on about unlike radius's not jiving reguardless of their pivot origin point. Just let me build you some swings and call it done. Start collecting hiems.

I'm going to say - looks like someone's bronco is getting some work done - nice!

And I too dig those stands. I need to replace my non folding ones with folding ones like those.

I think there is lots of info in this thread regarding steering..

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... =15&t=4894

I have the stocker with a tie rod flip. Have yet to do any real testing but seams fine from my veiw. Heres a shot of full bump. I cant find one atm of full droop but i will keep looking.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:I'm going to say - looks like someone's bronco is getting some work done - nice!

And I too dig those stands. I need to replace my non folding ones with folding ones like those.

Hey Steve! Had a bunch of work done by Solo Motorsports and I've wheeled it a bit. I really dig it. I don't go too fast in my opinion but it did great in the desert the last few times. I went with 12-inch stroke Bilstein 9100 coilovers with the special Tony Rojo valving (I kid you not, the card for the valving actually says Rojo Valving). The spring rate is 350 over 450 and it feels really good both on and off-road.

That was what Bobby at Solo Motorsports recommended and I have been happy with it.

I still need to give it some lower end grunt though. Probably will end up doing 4.56 since I still like to crawl this thing around on trails.

Cool deal Agui. Good to hear it got some love & you're getting to enjoy it.

robertcrav wrote:I think there is lots of info in this thread regarding steering..

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... =15&t=4894

Thanks Robert. I read through the whole thing and it made me a little more confused.

... maybe a swinger steering in its future, well - once I finish My '71 GMC SAS, my Mustang's T5 swap... oh, and lets not forget the rear gears on my '79 Bronco.

Hey Augie I know its been discussed but take a look at jbfabs truck. The tie rod flip maybe something to look into as well. I mean you need to check for clearance. Itd ease the angle on the outer tie rod ends.

Hey Augi, just wasn't sure if you'd seen that thread

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Hey Augie I know its been discussed but take a look at jbfabs truck. The tie rod flip maybe something to look into as well. I mean you need to check for clearance. Itd ease the angle on the outer tie rod ends.

I have considered this method as well but then its a whole new ball game. Currently I feel like its sitting in the sweet spot by eyeballing it but if I flip the TRE's, I won't really know what to do. At that point a swinger steering might be more beneficial.

I might just get the ambulance steering upgrade and run one with the stock pitman arm on one trip and see how I like it.

robertcrav wrote:Hey Augi, just wasn't sure if you'd seen that thread

No, I meant thanks for the heads up with the link. I read through it while not working hard at my desk today.

Augi bs aside: the factory tie rod configuration radius length will intersect. The raising and lowering of the pitman arm and the tierod flip, or through bolted hiems like mine on factory stuff will all have the exact same characteristics. All your proposing is raising or lowering the inevitable to a different height in the suspension stroke. It will still toe in or toe out the same amount because the radius's remain the same length. Your actually asking what's the best place for the toe change to happen at.
I say:beats me its a catch 22.

Rmc wrote:Augi bs aside: the factory tie rod configuration radius length will intersect. The raising and lowering of the pitman arm and the tierod flip, or through bolted hiems like mine on factory stuff will all have the exact same characteristics. All your proposing is raising or lowering the inevitable to a different height in the suspension stroke. It will still toe in or toe out the same amount because the radius's remain the same length. Your actually asking what's the best place for the toe change to happen at.
I say:beats me its a catch 22.

That's a great point. Didn't really think of it like that.

I wonder if it would even be something I could feel while hitting some whoops. This does however push me towards going with a swinger steering setup.

Guys-- I built a set of Jack stands that are about 30"ish tall (I'm in ND now so I can't measure) about 8 years ago and they are a super lifesaver and a huge asset around the shop. Mine were made of round tubing which I wouldn't do again to how much work it is to notch but that's another story. Buy the tubing --mine is just 1.5" HREW .120 -- triangulate everything and then use about a foot of about 1"ish Acme thread with a cradle of sorts on one end --for adjustment add some Acme nuts, then weld on about 6" long bolts to the nuts for handles to be about to adjust the height, then add some phenolic knobs and some paint to snazz up the project. Those that Solo are really nice but in an afternoon you have a super nice asset for easily have the price. If you leave off the Acme thread for adjustment its even easier and faster.

As far as the gears go and an OD trans-- go with the 488's -- I have the 4.56's and a 35" tire and theres no reason to not have the taller gear with an OD-- a C6 4.56 is fine. I should have gone with my gut on the 4.88's but didn't and I do regret it.

VintageIronFab wrote:Guys-- I built a set of Jack stands that are about 30"ish tall (I'm in ND now so I can't measure) about 8 years ago and they are a super lifesaver and a huge asset around the shop. Mine were made of round tubing which I wouldn't do again to how much work it is to notch but that's another story. Buy the tubing --mine is just 1.5" HREW .120 -- triangulate everything and then use about a foot of about 1"ish Acme thread with a cradle of sorts on one end --for adjustment add some Acme nuts, then weld on about 6" long bolts to the nuts for handles to be about to adjust the height, then add some phenolic knobs and some paint to snazz up the project. Those that Solo are really nice but in an afternoon you have a super nice asset for easily have the price. If you leave off the Acme thread for adjustment its even easier and faster

yup, if you can fab they can pretty easily be made. I have 2 home fabricated ones here & 4 purchased.

yes you can build them for less than buying, but it does take a bit of time to build them. I've found a set or 2 used & jump on them when they come up. Almost as cheap as building them yourself and waaaay less time involved.

I'm just after the folding ones now as space is at a premium since I downsized from a shop to a garage.

I just dig the folding idea and also that type have the handles to crank it up. I've been wanting to buy a few of those.