Radius arms, weld-on or bolt-on?

[fordf100amc]

I'm building a 91 bronco race truck. Im building it to class 3 specs.
So I'm about ready to build the radius arms. Better to have them weld on or bolt on to the beams?
What do you guys think about the ruff stuff 1.25 heims, what other heims would you recommend for the radius arms?

[fordf100amc]

Im running stock length beams

[PaulW]

I'm building a 91 bronco race truck. Im building it to class 3 specs.
So I'm about ready to build the radius arms. Better to have them weld on or bolt on to the beams?
What do you guys think about the ruff stuff 1.25 heims, what other heims would you recommend for the radius arms?

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Mostly what I see for racers are J arms. RA welded to the beams. The exception is for the EB where most still use the stock setup - Yuk.
Anyway for a racer less bolts & joints - very good thing to eliminate failure modes.
PW

[Jasonj105]

Ive noticed the same thing. Is there any advantage to j-beams, other than less bolts to break?

[baja-chris]

I think welding is stronger and less likely to move and loose alignment. My yellow prerun bronco has the arms welded and it's got a huge amount of hard use and still has perfect alignment. When I used to run Rancho bolted on radius arms, the alignment was always messed up after a hard prerun, never knew if stuff was bending or bolts moving or what. Not sure i've ever seen a competitive class 8 or 3 run bolted on radius arms. Welding is the norm as far as I know.

[fordf100amc]

You guys that have run j bean are they hard to install since it is all one piece?
I'm running rancho arms right now and one broke so I'm thinking about the welded arms.

[baja-chris]

I had uniballs on both the beam and radius arm, no adjustment at all, on the class 4 race truck. It took a bit of work to get them back in but had them in and out every race. Was not bad enough to wish it was designed different. With a heim on the radius arm it's no problem at all. I guess you would not want your radius arm welded to your beam in an uncaged truck since the frame and chassis are likely to be bent or tweaked causing the assembly to spring when you remove it.

BTW, I'm not sure this is a J-arm. I think of a J-arm as the upper arm on a trophy truck that wraps around the front of the engine for a center mount.

[fordf100amc]

Ya my bronco is already fully caged. I'm building it to class 3 specs but I plan on racing in VORRA next year.
I'm going to do heims on the radius arm and still debating on a uniball or bushing for the beam end.
Do uniballs make a big difference?

[kylesgorter]

I've always been a fan of keeping them separate because radius arms if hit hard enough will bend and you want to be able to replace them easily. You could even carry spares if its an issue but I don't think it will be a ton of racers run them.this more standard way with no problems.

[Threat Motorsports]

Bolt is overkill as it is...No need to make more work for yourself if you get yourself into a into a pickle. If I though for a second that a J-arm set up was more superior we would build our kits that way. Its just not the case though...

[SteveG]

If I though for a second that a J-arm set up was more superior we would build our kits that way. Its just not the case though...

You sound like a graduate of the Burg Academy. [sarcasm]Clearly, if someone doesn't do it just like you, they're doing it wrong![/sarcarsm]. Give us a break, man.

Back on topic. Bolts or welds... they both work. I like bolts for reasons already stated, but there are a ton of welded examples that have been in service for tens of thousands of off-road miles.

[Agui-E7TE]

Nothing wrong with Camburg.. they have a great product that's dirt proven. Sure, Zaidenburg is a little outspoken and really proud of his products but the dude's actually really cool.

To be honest, I would just stick to keeping it bolted on and simply make sure you check the torque before, during and after a trip... or at the very least, carry a spare bolt or have buddies with Ranger's who can loan you a spare radius arm bolt and nut, just ask BajaBronco13

[Nick]

Sure, Zaidenburg is a little outspoken and really proud of his products but the dude's actually really cool.

I just want to see him and pistol pete in a fight to the finnish cage match! 2 men enter, 1 man leaves!

[Agui-E7TE]

Sure, Zaidenburg is a little outspoken and really proud of his products but the dude's actually really cool.

I just want to see him and pistol pete in a fight to the finnish cage match! 2 men enter, 1 man leaves!

Haha! I don't know.. Pistol Pete looks pretty F'n tough.

[bajascott]

mine is set up welded together.i did this on mine because it was less work for me to do when i built my front end. it has thousands of miles off road and over a 100000 of on road. i can unbolt and re install with little effort. i wont recomend it to my customers only beacuse i would want to be the one installing it.
it is all a matter of what you want to do.... BOTH ways work as expected.and both ways can fail in a bad ways.


my money would be on Pistol,but if it went the other way i know someone who jump in to help....

[fordf100amc]

I think im going to weld them up. I dont want any weak points. I already cracked a radius arm on the flange where the bolt goes through.
And if i break or bend the beams or radius arms that just means i get to build a whole new set.

[baja-chris]

Here's a couple photos from today showing radius arms welded to beams. Still need to add a pad for the air bumps which will be centered on the seam between the beam and the arm plate which is 3/16 4130 plate. The arms consist of three tubes of 1.75" 4130, plated on all three sides with 1/8" 4130, except the forward area where the shock mounts and bump stop pads are. I think this is stronger and less likely to move than a bolted on radius arm, but I know there are differing opinions.

[Nick]

Here's a couple photos from today showing radius arms welded to beams. Still need to add a pad for the air bumps which will be centered on the seam between the beam and the arm plate which is 3/16 4130 plate. The arms consist of three tubes of 1.75" 4130, plated on all three sides with 1/8" 4130, except the forward area where the shock mounts and bump stop pads are. I think this is stronger and less likely to move than a bolted on radius arm, but I know there are differing opinions.

Soooo nice!

[ChaseTruck754]

my money would be on Pistol,but if it went the other way i know someone who jump in to help....

or 2, or 3, or... heck - a TON of guys who would.

Personally I'd be ok if 2 went in an none came back out. Both are annoying as heck at most times

[Threat Motorsports]

If I though for a second that a J-arm set up was more superior we would build our kits that way. Its just not the case though...

You sound like a graduate of the Burg Academy. [sarcasm]Clearly, if someone doesn't do it just like you, they're doing it wrong![/sarcarsm]. Give us a break, man.

Back on topic. Bolts or welds... they both work. I like bolts for reasons already stated, but there are a ton of welded examples that have been in service for tens of thousands of off-road miles.

Wow Steve why so uptight? I was just stating facts... I never said it was wrong now did I? Was I really out of line on this one Steve????....Carry on....