GoFastBroncos.com

So thinking of how I'd like to build my hoopty and hoping some one on here can tell me why this could work or why it wont work. Worth it or not worth it?

I know when hanging radius arms allot of people will move wheel centers forward an 1.5" How far can you push the front forward before issues appear?

Any one doing something similar in the back? Off center spring perches and some fender trimming? Rehanging spring hangers and shackle mounts further back than stock? This could give you wheel base and allow room for a longer shock under the sheet metal. Probably can't go to far back before the diff meets the gas tank I'm sure.

I'm sure I'm sure I'm not the first to consider this. What do you guy's think? 3-4" longer wheel base possible?

1.5" in the front is doable.

Rear can go almost 3" before you start to hit the tank. Some creative trimming on the rear glass and it will all work out.

I've though about moving the rear axle back 10" and moving the fuel tank. I could live with a 115-117" wheelbase...

Custom glass and a linked rear suspension would be needed. It would require a lot of work... not that stretching the regular way doesn't.

Ugly huh?

I'm thinking I'm dicking with the radius arms and the leafs anyways to work on getting good travel numbers, if I can get any extra wheel base while putting it all together than rad.

The extra 3" really helps with the DS. On a bronco, thats like a 20% increase in length..........

I redrilled the perches and plate to move the axle about 2 1/2" clears the tank and it was minimal work.

philofab wrote:

Ugly huh?

Looking good Philo... love those APPs!

philofab wrote:

Ugly huh?

Thats about what ive been thinking of doing.. no overhang either. other than the 2500 dollar fuel cell i dont really see any drawbacks. i like that wheelbase alot. and you save like 20k in bodywork. Add 6.2 ls with a 6 speed auto and hang on.. The worst part would be doing the molds for the quarters. But i do have some nice steel cut off ones to start with.

philofab wrote:I've though about moving the rear axle back 10" and moving the fuel tank. I could live with a 115-117" wheelbase...

Custom glass and a linked rear suspension would be needed. It would require a lot of work... not that stretching the regular way doesn't.

I thought about doing this when I had my bronco as well and having the finders go past 13 inches or so with two spears right behind the tail gate face out...so it would still be enclosed cab longer wheel base and duel spares flat against the tail gate wheel face out. The side view would still symmetrical and you would not be able to tell from the back spares would swing down or out and tail gate would still open......but then I got a extacab f150 TTB and gave up space in the cab for wheel base and not a pro fab guy means loots of work I can't do....lol. I will see if I still have the pics I made it looks sweet to me.

Hey VS did you have to lengthen the drive shaft for 2.5" or was there enough travel in the slip yoke?

I was thinking that if some one took the time to design a fuel cell, fiberglass, spring hanger/4-link and drive shaft at +10" wheelbase it would be a desiralbe package.. I wish I would have done it.

Seabass wrote:Hey VS did you have to lengthen the drive shaft for 2.5" or was there enough travel in the slip yoke?

I don't know because I replaced the 8.8 with a 9" at the same time so I just had a buddy measure what was correct for that set up and build it for me. If you give me the stock driveshaft spec I can compare to mine. I have the giant 64 kit dont know if that effected the ds build,

Cool, thanks CS. I'll probably wait to do that when I do my springs as well. I'm running on borrowed time with my 8.8 so I may even wind up having to go down the same path as you.

Any one got more info on the front? What is the limiting factor?

Seabass wrote:Any one got more info on the front? What is the limiting factor?

Every combination of parts is different on pushing the front forward. The farther you go the more issues you have with steering and axle clearance. You will also run into the pivot with the passenger beam if you go to far forward.

I have considered using a Bronco body on my shortbed frame, moving the rear axle foward slightly to keep the shackles under the rear of the body, but also moving the body back 1 - 2". That way, the firewall area has more clearance, the weight balance gets better and if my measurements are correct, if I used links instead of leaves in the rear, the shortbed wheelbase would aalllmmoooossssstt fit under.

this is how i would do it if i built one...
use shortbed bedsides and not cut the body at all, move the fuel tank/cel back and let the overhang of the bedside cover that, and use that space for storage/spare tire etc

On my stretch the driveshaft plunge was the controlling factor. Zero plunge is the goal for the whole travel up & down. This is very important. With me keeping the E4OD that means a big stretch (17.5"). I recommend using the C6 then the stretch would be less (someone said 6" less?) for the same 3/8" plunge. With mine we still had to lower the transfer 1" to get my 3/8" plunge.
Less stretch has pros and cone. Like less weight and worse performance in the whoops. For a rear stretch stock metal fenders or glass will both work. For a rear axle moved aft like Brian is refering to then go glass so the wheel arch can be moved more easy than with metal. If you just want a track that avoids tire rub in the inside of the tub then push out the stock fenders for the simplest way to go.
PW

PaulW wrote:On my stretch the driveshaft plunge was the controlling factor. Zero plunge is the goal for the whole travel up & down. This is very important. With me keeping the E4OD that means a big stretch (17.5"). I recommend using the C6 then the stretch would be less (someone said 6" less?) for the same 3/8" plunge. With mine we still had to lower the transfer 1" to get my 3/8" plunge.
Less stretch has pros and cone. Like less weight and worse performance in the whoops. For a rear stretch stock metal fenders or glass will both work. For a rear axle moved aft like Brian is refering to then go glass so the wheel arch can be moved more easy than with metal. If you just want a track that avoids tire rub in the inside of the tub then push out the stock fenders for the simplest way to go.
PW

it might be a little cheaper to change the length of the trailing arms .. it really isnt that big of a deal to have a little bit of plunge if you have a bolt on yoke transfer case.

I stretched my 92 using 05 F150 springs. and got 4" of lift out of them. It moved the rear back about 3". I only need to trim the lower corner on mine. General spring has a good web site with most spring specs. That is where I did my research. I got the springs for 50 bucks apiece lfrom the wrecking yard low mileage with much better bushings. One word, smooth riding. I take my Bronco from Georgia to Colorado or Ark at the Superlift Park wheel the hell out of it and drive home. Minus a few u-joints. That seems to be my weak link right now.

Forgot to send a full view after pic. It rides much nicer on the freeway and steep desents feel safer.