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Figured I'd start this thread, seeing as how a factory alignment will not really perform as well on our rigs vs. a stock truck. So what specs is everybody running? Specifically Caster. I'd assume that most of the daily drivers will be running as close to 0 degrees of Camber for tire longevity as possible, and toe is an easy one. I know that the factory specs for caster vary between 1-4 degrees and i have seen some specs that go from 2-6 degrees. Also, the more positive you go caster wise the more stress you put on your tie rods, as they now become a load bearing point in the suspension, instead of being just steering linkages. What is everybodies thoughts?

I generally like 5-9 degrees caster and a little bit of positive camber. I've found the truck will not wear tires very bad due to front end compression under braking and the caster makes it very stable. Don't forget to correct toe in for camber. Positive camber needs more toe in and negitive camber needs tow out. A lot of this is dependent on how YOU like your trucks to drive.

Ford settings work just fine. Slight negative camber is also good.
PW

SandStallion wrote:Figured I'd start this thread, seeing as how a factory alignment will not really perform as well on our rigs vs. a stock truck.

Why wouldn't stock specs work well on our rigs?

I've tried a bunch of different alignment specs on my truck and in the end I went back to stock specs with about 1/2 degree positive camber. It drives best and wears the tires best. Since replacing the coils I have only set toe and have not corrected camber. I'm guessing it has around 1-1.5 degrees negative camber and I hate it. It doesn't track as well and I can feel every block of tread as it contacts the ground.

If you've got all the right parts on your truck you should be able to take it to any decent alignment shop and just tell them "Align it". There should be no need for big eccentrics or fancy specifications. Keep in mind that I'm assuming this is for a street driven vehicle that also sees off-road use and not a purpose-built prerunner or race truck.

Caster is determined by the radius arms and ride-height. You should only have to adjust to correct a caster lead.

Camber (in my opinion) should be as close to zero as possible and a bit positive is beneficial on the street.

Toe should be zero or hair in.

Steve and Pual are correct but Ford Specs are wide enough to drive a truck through. A little pos. camber up to 1/2 degree positive will help to even the wear. As for caster I know many like to run higher than spec but running on the high end of the spec will help the vehicle track - 4 degrees as opposed to 1 degree.

damon1272 wrote:Steve and Pual are correct but Ford Specs are wide enough to drive a truck through. A little pos. camber up to 1/2 degree positive will help to even the wear. As for caster I know many like to run higher than spec but running on the high end of the spec will help the vehicle track - 4 degrees as opposed to 1 degree.

It sounds like you probably already know this, but there's a big range because the ride-heights vary so much. Taller ride-height=less camber (assuming the same radius arms).

I think caster on my Bronco is around 5 degrees... again, determined by the radius arms.

SteveG wrote:

damon1272 wrote:Steve and Pual are correct but Ford Specs are wide enough to drive a truck through. A little pos. camber up to 1/2 degree positive will help to even the wear. As for caster I know many like to run higher than spec but running on the high end of the spec will help the vehicle track - 4 degrees as opposed to 1 degree.

It sounds like you probably already know this, but there's a big range because the ride-heights vary so much. Taller ride-height=less camber (assuming the same radius arms).

I think caster on my Bronco is around 5 degrees... again, determined by the radius arms.

There is only ~2 degrees adjustment with the eccentrics assuming you don't need lots of camber correction. If your building your radius arms it's whatever number you want them to be... and I like a lot.

how would you adjust camber on a stock Bronco??

whoops. i meant caster.

Becks_Bronco wrote:how would you adjust camber on a stock Bronco??

whoops. i meant caster.

You would have to cut the radius arm and rotate the end... like John/Autofab does for his basic kits.

Becks_Bronco wrote:how would you adjust camber on a stock Bronco??

whoops. i meant caster.

You can make minor adjustments with the eccentric at the upper ball joint, but you should only have to adjust to correct a caster lead.

I got a set of Specialty products Caster/Camber Bushings, they are a 2 piece design, +/- 3 degree, PN#24130 and supposedly you should be able to set your alignment to pretty much whatever you want. I had them set Caster at 5.5 on passenger side and 6.0 on drivers, .2 of positive camber L&R, and .15 of toe in. Gonna take it to the beach tomorrow with the guys from up north and see how she feel. So far around town it tracks totally straight, road crown included. I like how my alignment guy says "Try it before you pay for it, if you dont like it, ill reset it."

i need to check some specs on mine (namely center the steering wheel and check toe-in and camber).

i'm comfortable doing the measuring measuring, but i know for instance if you back up the suspension shifts and your camber and toe change.

is it acceptable to put the beams up on jackstands and get the tires off the ground and then take your measurements?

Don't jack it. Move it forward into the spot your going to measure at and try not to use the brakes to stop it. Measure caster and camber with an angle finder, and adjust them to your liking. Then adjust tow in. Move the vehicle back and forward again and recheck.

Good advice from Philofab.

Running quickly as a street/dirt rig should one use the Factory alignment specifications or is it more desirable to change things particularly in light of 35-inch to 38-inch tires?

Dust, your posts always have at least one thing that confuses me. "Running quickly as a street/dirt rig...." I don't know what the hell that means.

I always align to Factory specs and put camber slightly positive.

SteveG wrote:Dust, your posts always have at least one thing that confuses me. "" I don't know what the hell that means.

I always align to Factory specs and put camber slightly positive.

"Running quickly as a street/dirt rig...." Sorry. would "NonRace" Application be easier...

I aligned to factory specs, added caster to get to just under 6 degrees. Stock was about 3 degrees caster on my Bronco.

I'm a mechanic by trade, so I understand the basics of aligning vehicles. However I can't get my Bronco's right front camber to get within specs. It's 1.5 degrees positive. I tried a moog adjustable cam to correct it, adjustable from 0-3.2 degrees, but there isn't enough movemnet in the ball joint it appears to use the full adjustment of the cam. It just will not go all the way. They're solo beams, the only thing I can think of is that they didn't add enough to the lower ball joint when they cut and turned them. I have 4 inch pro comp springs up front, they've settled for sure. I've driven the truck well over 5,000 miles since putting the lift on. Am I missing anything? I'm eating the right front tire up.

Hmm, that is the shorter of the beams so it gains camber quicker. If the C+T was done correctly you should have 0 degree or close to it for alignment eccentrics.

Have you called Bobby? I assume you got the beams directly from Solo and did not buy them second hand?