Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
- TrevorPiggott
- Posts: 134
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Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Right now my dad and I are putting J40's on the Bronco and it looks as though the shackles may hit the crossmember, do we need to cut part of the crossmember or should we be fine?
Thanks
Trevor
Thanks
Trevor
Be nice to me, I'm learning....and slow in the head...
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
yes you have to cut it.
Mark Kiefer
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- TrevorPiggott
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:16 pm
- Bronco Info: 99 F250 and a 1994 I started building but spends too much time sitting untouched...
- Location: Folsom,CA
Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Thank you Mark
Be nice to me, I'm learning....and slow in the head...
- philofab
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
The other option is to move the hangar down.
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- TrevorPiggott
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:16 pm
- Bronco Info: 99 F250 and a 1994 I started building but spends too much time sitting untouched...
- Location: Folsom,CA
Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Right now we are trying keep the right height on the lower side so we went with cutting out the crossmember.
Be nice to me, I'm learning....and slow in the head...
- Polarcub
- Posts: 1949
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
You don't have to trim much about 1/2" on the lip
Jeremy
- 1971Ford
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
What do you guy's think about moving the hanger down so the lower 2 bolts bolt through the hitch receiver? It's beefy stuff, just wondering if there would be any negatives to this not that were going to do it anytime soon.
-Ryan Piggott - 1971 F250 race truck #871
Brothers '94 Bronco prerunner
Brothers '94 Bronco prerunner
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vegasff13
- Posts: 46
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
That is how the solo shackles work, except they include the bracket that mounts to the frame and gives a mounting point for the lower two bolts.
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TPiggott
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Won't lowering the hanger down raise the back end another 2"? Also, will the J40's settle a bit over time? With the Camburg 6" shackles and the stock hanger location, the back of this thing is at least 4" higher.
- hobbyturnedobsession
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
what do you have up front?
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- TrevorPiggott
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:16 pm
- Bronco Info: 99 F250 and a 1994 I started building but spends too much time sitting untouched...
- Location: Folsom,CA
Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Up front is stock except for 2.5 inch lift coils.
How much will adding Deaver 5.5 coils help pinion angle (if at all)?
How much will adding Deaver 5.5 coils help pinion angle (if at all)?
Be nice to me, I'm learning....and slow in the head...
- Polarcub
- Posts: 1949
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
They will settle some but not much, I have several thousand miles on mine with a good chunk of that being in the dirt and they are pretty much where they started.TPiggott wrote:Won't lowering the hanger down raise the back end another 2"? Also, will the J40's settle a bit over time? With the Camburg 6" shackles and the stock hanger location, the back of this thing is at least 4" higher.
WRT to the coil question and pinion angle the front will have little effect on the rear pinion angle. The amount of lift in the J40s is the biggest factor for you. I am assuming you did not put the factory wedge back in? If you did than that also adds about 3/4" or so. I moved my perches to adjust the pinion angle and get the rear down a little bit.
Jeremy
- hobbyturnedobsession
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
youll still be stink bug but not bad. I have that setup. J40's with the rear end rotated, 5.5 springs up front, and no shims. Its really close. Much better than what your seeing on your truck now.
I'm just here for the views. It helps me feel wanted.
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TPiggott
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
We did put the factory shim back in and the pinion angle does not look too bad but Trevor is saying he has a vibration now that wasn't there before.
- hobbyturnedobsession
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Thats pretty normal with those springs. If you buy a new set of perches, cut the old ones off and align the drive line with about 1 degree angle for load, and weld on the new perches itll go away. what year is it again? I haven't tried it yet but I'm going to, drop the transmission crossmember about an inch, thatll help with the double cardan joint if it has an e4od.
I'm just here for the views. It helps me feel wanted.
-
TPiggott
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:24 pm
- Bronco Info: My son has a 1989 Bronco we are building into a pre-runner for my other sons 71 Ford desert racer
Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
It is an '89. I don't have a welder that can handle re-welding the perches so I am trying to avoid that. I am tempted to put another wedge in there.
- hobbyturnedobsession
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
so its a c6. those wedges are no good. I tried those and i broke the shim nipple and snapped a driveline and the mount that holds the drive line on the rear end. My advice, spend a little extra to have a good place have it done.
I'm just here for the views. It helps me feel wanted.
- SteveG
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
What kind of a welder do you have?TPiggott wrote:It is an '89. I don't have a welder that can handle re-welding the perches so I am trying to avoid that. I am tempted to put another wedge in there.
Sho nuff,
SteveG
SteveG
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TPiggott
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- Bronco Info: My son has a 1989 Bronco we are building into a pre-runner for my other sons 71 Ford desert racer
Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Just a cheap mig. not good for anything over 1/8"
- Polarcub
- Posts: 1949
- Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:53 pm
- Bronco Info: 95 Eddie Bauer and 95 XLT still in the shop........
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Re: Camburg shackles/cutting rear crossmember
Every truck is different for sure, sounds like the best bet would be to relocate the perches. I had to put the factory shim in with the +3 springs. I had a bad vibration until I did that. I relocated my perches before I went to the J40s.TPiggott wrote:We did put the factory shim back in and the pinion angle does not look too bad but Trevor is saying he has a vibration now that wasn't there before.
Where are you located you might be able to get some help form someone on here with welding the perches on. Can your mig go flux core without gas? That should take you up to 1/4" range for welding purposes.
Jeremy
