Dana 44- Open, LS - Thoughts on your setup??

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue Aug 30, 2016 12:00 am

What's the part number on the truetrac you guys run and do you have to use the spring in the slip joint trick?

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Tue Aug 30, 2016 1:58 am

Since I am running a 408 stroker, I wonder if that pump will keep up with me shooting for 400-500hp

David...

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Tue Aug 30, 2016 1:59 am

Wrightracing.net wrote:Since I am running a 408 stroker, I wonder if that pump will keep up with me shooting for 400-500hp

David...

Sorry wrong thread, Steve, can you delete this please.

David...

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:33 am

In my case, I will be running a bolt on passenger side axle, so no need for the spring trick. I just picked up a third member with the axles for $150 on Ebay. I just need 4:88 gears now.

David...

arse_sidewards · Post by **arse_sidewards** » Tue Aug 30, 2016 4:02 am

Tchajagos wrote:What's the part number on the truetrac you guys run and do you have to use the spring in the slip joint trick?

I do spring outside the slip. I just happened to have a spring that was the right size to go over the splines but not slip over the axle and was about the right rate. I didn't feel like digging through my bucked of springs to find something else and was in a time crunch (as in I literally slapped it together, went around the block, fixed some rubbing brake stuff and then went on a road trip the next AM) so welding the cap and putting a stiff spring in was out of the question. I like the outside spring better because it's got enough space to 100% guarantee it won't bind in full droop. Next time it's apart I'm gonna buy/make a set of split shaft collars (old connecting rods work well) for the axle and yoke because I'm concerned about the outside spring riding up the axle shaft in the long term. All this mess resides within the boot. I've thought about DIYing a bolt on retainer onto a later housing but further investigation will probably wait until I slice and dice a different D44 for a different project. Without massive drop brackets there really isn't enough down-travel to get the beams at an angle where the slip joint will fall out. At best they're pointed at 10 and 2 with the beams fully compressed. You'd need to get them much closer to 11 and 1 before things can fall out. That would require tons of frame clearance and massive drop brackets The real concern is the slip yoke binding, pulling the shaft mostly out of the diff and then stripping splines. I haven't measured specifically for spline engagement any time I've cycled so take this with a grain of salt.

Phoenix0783 · Post by **Phoenix0783** » Thu Sep 01, 2016 9:54 am

Tchajagos wrote:What's the part number on the truetrac you guys run

Depends on your gear ratio

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Thu Sep 01, 2016 1:59 pm

Phoenix0783 wrote:
Tchajagos wrote:What's the part number on the truetrac you guys run
Depends on your gear ratio

4.10s

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Thu Sep 01, 2016 2:00 pm

I picked up this one but the guy said it was out of a jeep d44. I'm hoping it will work for the front. If not I will just resell it to a jeeper.

S00TLYFE · Post by **S00TLYFE** » Thu Sep 01, 2016 2:32 pm

I've heard people run the factory limited slips (can't think of name right now) has anyone ran those? Can you run them with 4.56? Haven't been able to find that out. Trac loc I think they're called.

LvSteve · Post by **LvSteve** » Thu Sep 01, 2016 8:26 pm

Truetrac part number 913A592

http://www.summitracing.com/search?Sort ... rd=913A592

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 4:27 am

I'm running a Trac lok up front with 4.88. I like it so far. I for sure wouldn't do a locker, the limited slip makes it hard enough to turn.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

arse_sidewards · Post by **arse_sidewards** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 5:15 am

birdco85 wrote:I'm running a Trac lok up front with 4.88. I like it so far. I for sure wouldn't do a locker, the limited slip makes it hard enough to turn.

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The automatic (lunch-box or Detroit) gives no resistance when you're not on the gas hard enough to lock it up. The LS has the same amount of resistance all the time because the clutches in it are always trying to prevent the side gears from spinning at different speeds. That's specifically why I selected a lunch-box (the price was a nice bonus, but I still could've found a Junkyard D44 LS cheaper). Traction when I need it but it acts like an open diff when the transfer case isn't engaged.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:31 am

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Tru-track LS does not have any Clutches in it? That was a selling point for me, mo friction additives to deal with and rebuildable. I have not put mine in yet but I have drove a friend's with one up front in the sand and Dirt roads. I felt the front end was more responsive in turns over my open diff in the Bronco. I personally don't think it was harder to turn off road.

David...

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:37 am

Typo, need edit, mo = No Friction Additives needed.

David...

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:09 am

Correct, no clutch's in the Tru-trac.

Although, there is these....... http://www.wavetrac.net/

Similar to a Tru-Trac but it has a speed sensitive clutch in the middle. I am unsure how long a clutch of that size would hold up off road though. Street cars rarely lift a wheel while WFO.......

arse_sidewards · Post by **arse_sidewards** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 3:50 pm

I forgot that the TT was the one without clutches. If you can't lift one wheel and spin it fairly freely you're going to get a lot of feedback and it's gonna want to go straight. Obviously there's a lot of room for fine tuning based on limited slip design but that's the gist of it.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:07 pm

Just saw that broncograveyard sells the springs for the axle

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/ ... nfo/32009/

JonMac31 · Post by **JonMac31** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 3:04 pm

So I think this was answered in a previous comment... but being new to lockers and such I am going to ask again in hopes to gain clarification.
I have manual locking hubs up front - so if I were to put a locker up front in the D44, then:
Hubs are unlocked = technically "open" differential
Hubs are locked = utilize the locker

Is this correct?

arse_sidewards · Post by **arse_sidewards** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 3:24 pm

JonMac31 wrote:So I think this was answered in a previous comment... but being new to lockers and such I am going to ask again in hopes to gain clarification.
I have manual locking hubs up front - so if I were to put a locker up front in the D44, then:
Hubs are unlocked = technically "open" differential
Hubs are locked = utilize the locker

Is this correct?

Hubs unlocked = 2wd

JonMac31 · Post by **JonMac31** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 3:33 pm

arse_sidewards wrote:Hubs unlocked = 2wd

Lol, Doh! Total blonde moment there...

Okay, so if the hubs are then locked - but 4 wheel drive is not engaged, are you still using the locker?

I guess what I am trying to say is if I have a locker in the front and I want to drive around town with the hubs locked (due to snow or whatever), will the locker be engaged? Or does it not engage until I push the 4wd button?

Sorry for my lack of knowledge! This stuff is still so new to me...