Uniball Beam Pivots

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Fri Jan 03, 2014 1:29 pm

Thanks Philo!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:10 pm

Hello All,
I am wondering if these uniballs are what I am looking for?
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Uni ... _1613.html

then use these:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Red ... _1716.html
-- On the beam pivots do you all like using 5/8" or 3/4" bolts??

Looks like I can get all the pieces I need for about $135 delivered

The only question I at this point I dont think I understand is the turning down of the parts.. do you turn down the cups or do you turn down the uniball itself?

Thanks for the help-- starting to get some parts to start the work!
Matt

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:48 pm

You'd turn down the cups.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:31 pm

1.400 oal is the cup width as I recall after machining.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:17 am

How did these uniball cutouts turnout? I am going to wrap the ends after I get the cups installed-- figured 3/16" would be about perfect.

Thanks,
Matt

Travisfab · Post by **Travisfab** » Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:37 am

Run it! Mine arent even wrapped

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:44 am

Funny -- I was curious if anyone had been able to look at this-- Im about to head over to a guy a mile or so from here with a lathe to have them turned down to 1.40" -- I am wanting to bump the front end forward as far as I can.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 9:23 am

Just wondering before I weld it up if this uniball depth --I am wanting to push the front end forward just about an inch fyi-- I had them turned down to a 1.4" width also.

Thanks!

baja-chris · Post by **baja-chris** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:15 am

Does that fit inside the pivot bracket? As the suspension cycles, the beam rotates...

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:04 pm

Yes it does-- what do you think of this clearance? I havent cycled it. If I am wanting the front end forward-- the pivot would have to be more to rear correct-- because as the beam cycles it will rotate forward and down. Sorry just trying to keep up a very quick pace as I have 9 days and 58 minutes to go

1st pic is max angle in the stock bracket
2nd is just showing you the difference in total width comparing the two pieces.

Post by **SteveG** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:05 pm

Tack it, install beams, radius arms, knuckles and steering and cycle. Weld it up when everything is good.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:06 pm

X2 on what Steve said.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:33 pm

Like the guys said - tack & cycle is the only real way. It may not sound fun in the beginning & it may take longer, but it's certainly better on time than thinking it'll work & being just off & having to take it apart & fit it/do it over

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:33 pm

oh and most suspension stuff works this way unfortunately. I can't count how many times I've cycled stuff over the years. Seems like you just do it over & over again

drewbee88 · Post by **drewbee88** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:45 pm

ChaseTruck754 wrote:oh and most suspension stuff works this way unfortunately. I can't count how many times I've cycled stuff over the years. Seems like you just do it over & over again

This. You get tired of putting it together and taking it apart again, but by the end you will be really fast at tearing down and putting it together. I can get mine assembled by myself in about 20 min minus brakes.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:34 pm

I agree with exactly what the others have said. There is no blue print for custom work. Each has there own dimensional quirks ect. Stuff gets bent and you can't tell till its measured up properly. It's not gofast or gofun but definately necissary, at bare minimum for peace of mind.

Post by **SteveG** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:55 pm

Proper cycling is one of the reasons good fab work is very expensive... fit, tack, assemble, cycle, adjust, repeat, repeat, repeat. It's also the reason good kits are so expensive. All the hard work is done... bolt it all on and go play.

You've got a ton of work into your rig, take the time to cycle it and do it right the first time!

Travisfab · Post by **Travisfab** » Thu Jan 23, 2014 12:53 pm

Cycling trucks with 20" of wheel travel is just so much fun!

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Fri Jan 24, 2014 11:20 pm

looks good

uniball are pretty forgiving ... Should be able to go 1 1/2 plus forward easy

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 12:31 am

well I just basically guessed on the uniball placement and you are right they will swing forward much further than really possible to use. I think I put the cup at 1/8" in front of the beam face for the driver and passenger side. Its my thoughts that if you are pushing the beam forward the centerline of the beam needs to be more to the back of the pivot mounts so they clear everything. Again the uniballs are really forgiving and I think it really doesnt matter much in the end-- but hey I am a total TTB newbie-- but an expert in training

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