5/8s Wheel Studs

[yikes]

It's as simple as pulling your hubs and axles and taking them to a shop. Really nothing to be afraid of. I would say a total of 8 hours of your time all included and $350 or so dollars including machine work. Those wheels are awesome!

[Bootleg1]

You can use mag wheel lug nuts with the inner shoulder until you decide to replace the studs.
They have a 5/8 inner shoulder. Just make sure you get the shoulder in the correct length so they don't bottom out on your hubs.
Those wheels are too cool to shelf.

[Nick]

You can use mag wheel lug nuts with the inner shoulder until you decide to replace the studs.
They have a 5/8 inner shoulder. Just make sure you get the shoulder in the correct length so they don't bottom out on your hubs.
Those wheels are too cool to shelf.

This!

[Rmc]

I guess I was mis understanding, I thought someone wated to upgrade for stud benifit only on stock components, more or less I was going to talk you out of it depending on remaining material on the flanges. As far as getting wheels to fit, as stated sleeve type lug nuts, wheel inserts, or the previous are all alternatives. The sleeve lug nuts and pressed in wheel inserts are the most cost effective. Nice score on the wheels.

[robertcrav]

You weren't misunderstanding Robert, I was wondering about the upgrade as not only an 'upgrade' but also to fit the wheels.

The shouldered lugs completely slipped my mind... Hrmmm

[crisis88]

Thanks B. I may hit you up for that info.

[ESHALLBETTER]

Can't speak for the rear since mine isn't stock, but I have 5/8 studs in mine. All points made are valid points, but I'm not worried about the .063" less material, there is plenty material there in my opinion.

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[Rmc]

The last set I did was not 5/8 btw it was 7/8 or 13/16 or some crap rediculious. Basically this dude I know bought some wheels that came off a trophy truck. There was less than .100 left to the shoulder, this and a very strong " no dude you can't run these in stock flanges" led the dude to get wheel inserts installed. But your correct from 9/16 to 5/8 is no biggie in comparison. It should be easily do-able given there not oddball flanges. I myself on my own ride( not that I'd advise others, due to me being aware my saftey is at my own risk) would do it with a hand drill with an appropriate drill bit without worry, granted I'm not racing and I may not be too bright. But I still would do it because hole roundness I would disregard as well as perpendicularity for 2 simple reasons. 1st the shoulder on a press-in stud will correct any flatness condition (perpendicularity of the stud to the flange) and .030 per side is a very small number. It's 3 human hairs depending on hair color ( no bs there). I also know for a fact that the drill will follow the path of least resistance aka self center. The knurl will correct centering in an out of round hole. Do as you like but my old bucket of bolts is not aerospace. Brian is right, know this, but I'm ok with minimal risk hack job sh!t from time to time. Now if they were high dollar axels in question you bet I would do it the right way. I hate to sound so backwoods but its just my take on the question.

[Rmc]

To the same point I opened up my factory leaf spring plates from 9/16 to 5/8, am I taking additional risk.. You bet but ill take my chances. Numbers like .030 per side are a hell of a lot less risky than the usual 5 to 7 beers I'd roll around foaming up in my stomach back in my prime. I still say Brian is right though guys, if you don't want to worry do it right the first time.

[Rmc]

I say back in my prime lol well I'm not that old but I mean back in my power boozer days.

[cs_drums]

I think the work is well worth the piece of mind, We had all six 1/2" studs sheer on my buddies toyota and the wheel came off at 50-60mph.. no bueno.
The wheels are the most work to machine and you already have that done. go for it!

[robertcrav]

These things are beef! 7/8" thick center, 4.5" bs, 17x9

[cs_drums]

I just saw them on craigslist with 37s is that the old add or are you contemplating selling them? Are you gonna run the 37s?

[robertcrav]

I just saw them on craigslist with 37s is that the old add or are you contemplating selling them? Are you gonna run the 37s?

I bought them this weekend, and seperated/sold the 37s Saturday....Seller worked with me and put me in touch with a buyer that just wanted the tires.

not planning on 37s in the near future... I am contemplating, but haven't decided, and I've had a couple members pm me with interest if I do go that route.

[Baja]

You can use mag wheel lug nuts with the inner shoulder until you decide to replace the studs.
They have a 5/8 inner shoulder. Just make sure you get the shoulder in the correct length so they don't bottom out on your hubs.
Those wheels are too cool to shelf.

This is what I am running on my methods for now, until I upgrade down the road to bigger axles & studs. They havent let me down yet

[DLB]

Bringing back an old thread.... Does anyone have the part numbers for the studs they used to upgrade from 1/2" to 5/8" ? Looking at the front hubs the knurl is pressed into the outer hub so the knurl has to be 1 " long. Does anyone have the front and rear studs they used ?

[Rmc]

If you pound one out backward napa will match it up. Do same knurl length.

[DLB]

I already have them out, I was trying to find them from ARP or online. But I'll have to check with them. Thanks

[300]

We beat this up pretty hard over on this site, this thread:

http://www.class3racing.com/showthread. ... heel+studs

Short answer is this part number worked for us:

We used a Leland part number W603 available from a truck and brake supply outfit. Got ours from Capitol Clutch and Brake in West Sacramento in 2000. Leland parts catalog page:

http://lelandbrake.com/images/catalog/438-455.pdf

[DLB]

Thanks for the information. The Leland units work for the fronts but not on the rear ( for my taste), as the knurling does not extend to the head thus leaving a gap in the knurling which I don't like on the rear. However I did find that Moroso part number 46240 does work for both as the knurling extends far enough up the head to catch the front hub and be fully seated on the rear flange. And not near as costly as the ARP studs. Now for the lug nuts......