Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

[tcm glx]

If you want to move my stuff out of go-fast-front-suspension and also out of go-fast-rear-suspension, into a build thread, then I will add to it with more stuff. Please title it "Straightiff/Wilson Class 3 build". I have lots of photos.

I was just kidding man... I could start it, but I wouldn't have any clue how to move posts and pics...

MODs... If I'm the only dude that cares, then forget about it.
but I think it would be nice to have a thread for his build.

NOPE, i WANT A BUILD THREAD AND MORE PICS TOO!

x2

[ChaseTruck754]

I think we've all asked Chris to start a build thread at one point or another so you are by no means the only one that wants it.

[wyoming4x4]

Just finished the front beams for my race Bronco, you will notice a few differences from your stock beams.

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hello guys checkin in from wyoming. getting up to speed on ttb axles. you guys have very nice shade tree mechanics. awesome axle setup. will be chiming in from time to time.

[wyoming4x4]

cut and turned beams? never worked on a ttb only strait axle. when you cut and turn the beams its to correct the caster camber when lifting/modify ride height the way i understand. I read something like 15 degrees give or take a little from some conversations. looking to purchase a ttb truck and prep for off road race in yellowstone off road racing and need to maintain some of the oem specs and run factory parts with mods. 33" tire class at the moment. get things workin and eventually upgrade as money takes it course. have some change to play with but. been talkin to john at autofab on the ranger with full width axles but will bump me into a class out of my pocket book range. lookin to do a bronco and upgrade. thanks guys and keepin old iron alive one ford at a time.

[ChaseTruck754]

Yes it's to correct the camber when changing the ride height. Best way to do it is on the truck. Put a zero degree cam in the thing, set the ride height & then cut & adjust until camber is zero again then weld um up!

[baja-chris]

Yes it's to correct the camber when changing the ride height. Best way to do it is on the truck. Put a zero degree cam in the thing, set the ride height & then cut & adjust until camber is zero again then weld um up!

Don't forget to check and adjust the caster too. It also changes with ride height.

[ChaseTruck754]

True. I just build that into the radius arms. I guess guys who cut the whole beam off build this into the beams. Guys who mess with just the lower ball joint do it at the radius arm.

[robertcrav]

True. I just build that into the radius arms. I guess guys who cut the whole beam off build this into the beams. Guys who mess with just the lower ball joint do it at the radius arm.

That right there is some good info for me to consider as I'm looking at replacement arms/beams

Thank you!

[ChaseTruck754]

I can be all done in the radius arm for the guys that cut the whole beam end off too, but since the beam end is already completely off it's easy for them to add a couple degrees (if they want) before welding the things back together.

[D1cker1]

New extended Axles or Modified Stock axles?

[ChaseTruck754]

How much $$ you got????



See my serious answer in your other post.

[wyoming4x4]

thanks chase truck. really cool site and lots of help on here. more than one way to spend a buck on here. was lookin at a 1985 351 HO truck. any paticular bronco that are better than others. something about a 3 bolt diff to clip. never ran these axles due to kinda weak for big hrspwr and big tires.
so now my direction has changes to off road racing and suspension upgrades. sorry for being a rookie on TTB but got to start somewhere. lots of 4wds in wyoming. winter world.

[wyoming4x4]

How much $$ you got????



See my serious answer in your other post.

well chase truck will probably have around 10 grand to play with on suspension componets. i have another engine ready to roll and tranny c-6. My current project is workin this crewcab and have about 20 grand into truck as we speak, almost done! gonna be a driver and just a cool truck to run around in. i do understand the cubic dollar terminology$$. i don't really care to own a newer truck. i run around in them all the time and I'm just a old iron kinda guy. dealerships piss me off!!

[ChaseTruck754]

sounds like we'd get along well then...

If you've got $10k to throw at suspension alone (does that include shocks?) you'd probably be able to swing custom axles if you want them. All depends on what you want to do susp. wise. Unfortunately $10k can disappear QUICKLY on a suspension depending on what you buy, if you buy new or are picky & classifieds hunt, & then what exactly you are buying. Stock length deavers, maybe with a 2-link? Giant/deaver 64's? 3 or 4 link & coilovers?
I'm assuming if you're going wider you'd go coilover, but that doesn't mean you have to! Rick is on coils and his rig rocks!

So quite a bit of variables.

Either way - make the decision when you get there & see what is left of your budget. There are a few places other than Currie to get the axles too.

[wyoming4x4]

hey chase thanks for checkin in.was reading through all post and some really kick azz builders on here. i myself like doing things myself so i understand the ins and outs of everything!!! i have some skills in fab but definetly not a pro but can get things done and done well. looking at some of the info on here is awesome. really opening my eyes up on what to do! We have yellowstone offroad racing (Y.O.R.R.) they are getting things going up near my area. Looking at doing a well built stock truck to get my feet wet and evolve from here. Just need to figure out front suspension upgrades and durability built into truck. I'm in wyoming and pretty much stand alone due to lack of knowledge and people to compare. have some guys in billings montana but its still 2 hrs away. i wish i could pay and play but my head doesn't work that way. gotta do it myself. looking at possibly buying some upgraded parts but really won't learn the craft many on here have learned through experience. thanks guys and I'm just doing my homework and getting a plan for my next evolution in ford builds.

[FatCity]

Is there an optimal angle for stock width Bronco TTB beams?
In the case of a custom cross member... Or in my case, a non-Bronco.

I here the magic 7/8" cut and turn.
Should I base my cross member mounts off a 7/8" C&T or is less better in this situation.

7/8" gets my mounts up higher, allowing a stronger mount and technicaly gives me more clearance in the center. I'm cool with that, but is it optimal for the suspension travel?

Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric

[Frontrunner54]

Jeepspeed fatcity?

Are you putting beams on a jeep?

[Frontrunner54]

Beam angle shouldnt necessarily be your goal... How high do you want your front end? How much bump/droop travel are you aiming for? Keep your pivots as close to the frame as possible, with all clearances in mind. The pumpkin will probably be your main bump factor. Figure your ride height, and set those wheels up as close to zero as possible.

Beams on a jeep... I've seen a set of 2wds. Not 4wds though, that would be rad.

[philofab]

Don't waste time on C+T for your Jeep. Just put the pivot where you want it for ride height. Cut and turn will reduce your droop and increase your bump from stock.

[FatCity]

Jeepspeed fatcity?

Are you putting beams on a jeep?

Yes, and yes...

Beam angle shouldnt necessarily be your goal... How high do you want your front end? How much bump/droop travel are you aiming for? Keep your pivots as close to the frame as possible, with all clearances in mind. The pumpkin will probably be your main bump factor. Figure your ride height, and set those wheels up as close to zero as possible.

Beams on a jeep... I've seen a set of 2wds. Not 4wds though, that would be rad.

We're building a mock frame/mounts off the floor so we can cycle and position the beams. I guess that will be the true tell of whats foing to work better for this set up.

If we set it near the 7/8" to correct the camber it keeps the mount higher/stronger and technically more ideal.

Don't waste time on C+T for your Jeep. Just put the pivot where you want it for ride height. Cut and turn will reduce your droop and increase your bump from stock.

If we set it up with zero camber based off the factory geometry, the mount is going to be pretty low and a bit silly...

This is how it sits with about a 1/2" to correct camber. This would be acceptable, but I wouldnt mind if the mount was a bit higher.
Keep in mind, I still havent cycle anything. Just staring at it at this point and wondering whats most ideal...