GoFastBroncos.com

I just scored on a Newline crossover kit and a box for $300. Can't wait to put it on!

Looks good. That's an effective approach for building a pitman. Like it.

mesquito_creek wrote:I believe it qualifies as double sheer...

Perfect. Is the bolt shanked out?

I am not sure what "shanked out" means? I drilled the pitman and both spindles to 5/8 to correct some of the taper that exists on those components with tapered ball joint holes...

Kris is referring to the bolt shanks extending beyond the shear points, because you don't want lateral loads on the threads. Especially in a critical steering application. Most just buy longer bolts and cut the extra 1" or so of thread off to get the desired length.

yikes wrote:Kris is referring to the bolt shanks extending beyond the shear points, because you don't want lateral loads on the threads. Especially in a critical steering application. Most just buy longer bolts and cut the extra 1" or so of thread off to get the desired length.

correct. Most bolt failures I see are from not shanking out the bolt or not using a torque wrench.

I understand now... But i am not sure, its going to be close and i will have to double check that detail. The bolt i used was fk grade 8 with 18 threads per and the shop i bought it from called the grade8 wih fine thread and metal top lock a grade 9 equivalent? I have to pull the pitman arm to clock the steering wheel next and during that work i will check the bolt for "shank" detail.

mesquito_creek wrote:I understand now... But i am not sure, its going to be close and i will have to double check that detail. The bolt i used was fk grade 8 with 18 threads per and the shop i bought it from called the grade8 wih fine thread and metal top lock a grade 9 equivalent? I have to pull the pitman arm to clock the steering wheel next and during that work i will check the bolt for "shank" detail.

if you didnt cut the bolt and you dont have an assload of threads sticking out, you are probably not shanked out.

How do you properly cut a bolt to length? Stupid question but want to see some different methods.

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:How do you properly cut a bolt to length? Stupid question but want to see some different methods.

I use a cold saw so as not to affect heat treat. I put a finish nut on to the length required so the head and nut can be clamped perfectly sqaure. Cut it to size, remove nut which breaks the burr on the bolt. Hit on a burr king to add a nice edge break. Hit tips with clear paint or leave raw depending on maintenance schedule.

If using fine thread and the parts being bolted will require line up...dog point the bolt heavily so you dont ruin the threads hitting it in. Fine thread bolts teach patience not learned with tractor(coarse) bolts. Strip a few out from pounding them in, in tough places and you will know what im talking about. More often a problem with torqued to spec bolts than bolts just tightened.

yikes wrote:Most just buy longer bolts and cut the extra 1" or so of thread off to get the desired length.

Also known as the poor man's aircraft bolt..........

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:How do you properly cut a bolt to length? Stupid question but want to see some different methods.

I cut them with the port-a-band & hit the ends on my belt sander to debur.

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:How do you properly cut a bolt to length? Stupid question but want to see some different methods.

With a lathe, if you want to do a nice job.

My port-a-band & sand does a plenty nice job & takes way less time. For me at least...

Not the greatest pics - but you get the point.

Bottom 2 = after cut - before debur.



Can't really see in the pic but this is after debur.

yikes wrote:

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:How do you properly cut a bolt to length? Stupid question but want to see some different methods.

With a lathe, if you want to do a nice job.

How do you hold it? Put a nut on it and hold the head and the nut in the chuck?

Do you use a parting tool, then face it, then chamfer it? Do you use coolant or plunge in with parting tool hot? I would buy aircraft hardware if I was going to take the time to do that. Sounds nice but thats the first I have heard of somebody doing it that way.

Cold saw and burr king is quick and functional.

I just don't like wearing out my cold saw blade on heat treated steel. I think you can get the head of up to a 5/8" bolt into a 5c collet. Part it off with a carbide insert tool and just use some tapping oil on a brush to keep it wet. Then use a properly dressed carbide chamfering tool to face and chamfer. No oil necessary.

So I heard a rumor about pitman arms with on swing set steering setups that I feel is untrue. I heard that with a stock pitman arm you put the heims on the underside but with a drop pitman you put the heims on the top of the pitman arm. But I feel like I've seen most people having a stock pitman arm with one heim on top and one below. Can anyone clarify which is most common/correct to do?
Sorry if this is a weird question. I'm quite the noob.

TrevorPiggott wrote:So I heard a rumor about pitman arms with on swing set steering setups that I feel is untrue. I heard that with a stock pitman arm you put the heims on the underside but with a drop pitman you put the heims on the top of the pitman arm. But I feel like I've seen most people having a stock pitman arm with one heim on top and one below. Can anyone clarify which is most common/correct to do?
Sorry if this is a weird question. I'm quite the noob.

No need for a drop pitman arm.

PaulW wrote: On the TTBs they are seldom seen. In fact I bet nobody has seen such? Anybody seen a TTB with a damper?PaulW

my 93 2wd f-350 supercab dulley had a factory damper on it. (wish i still had that truck.) my dads 91 2wd f-350 crewcab dulley also had a factory damper on it. one notation to make both trucks had a 7.3l idi with 5speed.

mesquito_creek wrote:

shockseals.com wrote:

mesquito_creek wrote:Can anyone give me the approx lengths on each of the 3 rods required for the single swinger steering?

its not the lengths that are important, its where the bends go that are important.

gotcha on that... I have to pre-fab/purchase the material etc... becuase the truck is buried down in baja without effective steering and I am up here in the states. I will template everything out in the dirt on my back at the pick a part saturday, but having some rough measurements will help the planning/purchasing of all the stuff I have to gather up... Ideally, I would score some used pitman/swingers or find a less expensive solution to ordering up new parts from the known giants in the industry... but I have a time/money problem...

If I were you I'd make up another set of Getto fabulous extenders and bring it home so you can do the swing set set up right the first time without the pressure of working in the dirt in Baja somewhere but I'm funny like that. Good luck either way.

Autofab makes a swing set for 3" over beams by the way.http://www.autofab.com/extra_wide_mdl_44.htm