Question for the drivetrain gurus...

[HotRod82]

I am putting together the drivetrain for my TTB F100 ( yes I will post up a build thread) and have a couple questions. I already have a good 351W in the 450 HP range. I have decided to go with a manual valve body C-6 instead of the E4OD it is currently bolted to. The F100 will not be a DD so I don't think I will miss the OD much. My #1 priority with the F100 is simplicity and reliability so the C-6 gets the nod.

I have a Manual BW1356 out of a 93 Bronco, should I bolt this to the C-6 or get a NP205? Having experience with the 205, I know how good it is but it is big and heavy. I have almost zero experience with the 1356 and have no idea how tough they are. The F100 will be pretty built including 4 link rear. Suggestions??

Second - I am going with a 9" floater rear and want a fabricated housing. There are about 1000 builders out there, obviously I want to save as much $$$$ as possible but don't want a POS either. Suggestions?

Thanks!

[hobbyturnedobsession]

How often and how hard will you be running in 4wd? Ruff stuff has a really nice housing as well a Currie.

[Nick]

Dirt tech makes a nice housing. http://www.dirt-tech.com/tp_axle_housings_standard.html

[hobbyturnedobsession]

They're a nice setup too I forgot them.

[ChaseTruck754]

How often and how hard will you be running in 4wd?

This is exactly what popped into my mind when you asked about the 1356. They aren't quite as bulletproof as the 205, but in all reality it should be fine for what you'd want to do I think.

Build description has perked my ears up for sure. Can't wait to see this progress!

[baja-chris]

The BW1356 should be plenty tough for this, I had one in a class 8 truck for years and it was never a problem. The main reason to use a 205 on a go fast rig is that it's shorter and allows for a longer driveshaft which enables more suspension travel if you are doing a linked rear end.

As far as floater rear ends, Camburg has one at an attractive price. We are running one under our race bronco and so far so good.

[cs_drums]

Dirt tech makes a nice housing. http://www.dirt-tech.com/tp_axle_housings_standard.html

Dirt tech, that who I went with. Awesome peace for a good price. Cash helps

[HotRod82]

The BW1356 should be plenty tough for this, I had one in a class 8 truck for years and it was never a problem. The main reason to use a 205 on a go fast rig is that it's shorter and allows for a longer driveshaft which enables more suspension travel if you are doing a linked rear end.

As far as floater rear ends, Camburg has one at an attractive price. We are running one under our race bronco and so far so good.

Nice, thats what I wanted to hear. To be honest, I'm pretty easy on the go fast pedal when in 4WD. I was mostly concerned with the aluminum case when bouncing around WOT in 2WD. I know about the oil pump upgrade, anything else need to be addressed
with the 1356 while it is apart? Also - does the E4OD adapter just bolt to the C-6? So I just need a C-6 out of a 4x4 with no other adapters?

I like that DT housing, good price too.

[300]

I also think you will be fine with the 1356 however the E4OD adaptor is probably not going to bolt to the C6. I am assuming the spline count is the same? You will have to have the C6 adaptor that goes with the particular C6 tailshaft. The E4OD is mostly C6 for the last 2/3 of the case but I don't know that the adaptors are interchangeable. I believe there are 3 different tailshaft lengths for the C6 and you should be able to use the short one with the 1356 however you probably won't have problem with driveshaft angles in the F100 anyway. The short tailhousing were used with the 208 transfer case which is probably very similar in size and strength as the 1356. The one other thing you would want to check is that the 1356 will actually fit inside the frame rails. I bought a 208 to possibly try in the 79 Bronco, and it would not fit without moving the engine and trans over so it would clear the left frame rail.

Just make sure there aren't any issues with the front driveshaft slip joint being to long or to short at full drop or bump or you will snap that transfer case right off!

[HotRod82]

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the frame rail width issue, it is going to be close. Hopefully someone will chime in who has connected a 1356 to a C6........

[baja-chris]

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the frame rail width issue, it is going to be close. Hopefully someone will chime in who has connected a 1356 to a C6........

My play bronco came with this combo from the factory. 1989.

[HotRod82]

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the frame rail width issue, it is going to be close. Hopefully someone will chime in who has connected a 1356 to a C6........

My play bronco came with this combo from the factory. 1989.

Good to know, thanks! So the 5.8's must have been C6, while the 5.0 was AOD?

[cs_drums]

Thats weird I had an 87 5.8 w/AOD dont remeber what T-case

[drewbee88]

that is usually the case from the factory it was he 5.8 and c6 and 5.0 and AOD up until 1990 0r 1991 where they all went with E4OD's.