cutting and turning

[Agui-E7TE]

I just don't see it happening before a setup that uses the stock steering would. If the pitman arm is placed higher up, the angle on the tie rods is physically greater than if you had a drop pitman arm. There's absolutely no way my drop pitman arm setup will bind the tie rod before a comparable C&T suspension with stock pitman arm would bind it's tie rods. At full droop, a stock steering setup puts a lot more stress on the ball joints than a drop pitman arm would.

I've pushed my Bronco through some major whoop sections and I never once felt like it was a handful to drive it through. I would think if my steering links are almost parallel with my beams, that would be the best way to set it up.

Is there something I'm missing here?

[Rmc]

Your missing the math bro, I understand your travel is working within the usable angles of your ball joints. The issue is radius length. 2 arcs of different radius lengths with different piviot points do intersect whether u recognise what it's doing or not, parallelism of tierods to beams only moves the pivot point down . To answer your own question goto full droop n check tierod to spindle tension, goto full tuck n repeat. check your toe at both points. now go full droop on one and full tuck on the other, do the same for the opposing wheel u will see bump steer issues unless u have total travel that closely matches that of stock suspension. stock suspension and name brand lift kit are designed to work within the arc intersection points, but we now have completely high jacked dudes thread.

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

back on topic

I have too much negative camber, even with my alignment thingies at full turn.

looks like i'll be picking up another ttb this upcoming weekend.

[bajascott]

Are you here in Oregon? Want to come down to grants pass and let me help you?

[Rmc]

Negative camber means the top of the tire is in toward the engine. Is that what u have going on for shure? What size lift are your springs over stock?

[Rmc]

I got a set of 6 inch lift springs that need a home, if yours are 4 inch lift maybe these will help u out.

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

correct rmc.

taller springs won't work, the springs rub the frame enough to be annoying.

weird thing is, is the springs are 4" lift rancho springs, and were roughly 4" taller than stock springs. But now that they're on the truck and loaded, the truck sits at the same slant as with the stock springs but they feel noticeably softer.


What I'm going to do now is just install the new TTB's (after I beef them up) and see how they work with the rancho springs, I think they'll work great and I'll still be able to align with the 2 piece alignment cams.

I sold my '98 f150, so that's a relief. I currently have for sale 37x13.50r18 tires, $600 for you guys http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/3677701393.html

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

can and is anyone willing to give out their measurements for extending the lower ball joint?

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

shit, I mean for 2-4" of lift

[ESHALLBETTER]

They are different on each side given the length of the beams. 5/8th and 3/4 should get you in the ballpark.

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

alright, I'm going to weld up the new set tomorrow.

is 1/8" steel strong enough to plate it, or do most people use 3/16"?

I pulled the old set off tonight in 2 hours, I'm getting damn good at this

[Rmc]

3/16 for shure, the whole trucks weight is home crashing down on it, every day, every pothole. Stronger the better captain.

[Jbfab]

X2 on the 3/16ths. 1/8 is to thin and 1/4 is to heavy. I think i used A16 cold rolled.

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

[Kel Fab Creations]

Have u bolted up the spindles? That won't work. U moved it down and out. U need to bolt up the upper and lower ears to the spindle then swing the lower out.

[CPT. SPRINGINGTON]

it's only moved out, not down and out. the pics and leftover metal make it look deceiving.
I'll be bolting up the knuckles before welding it together.

god, this way is much easier... other than how much of a pain in the ass it is to remove the rotors and knuckles.

What ball joint remover do I use, a large C? I rented a normal BJ remover and it doesn't fit over the crap.

[Kel Fab Creations]

I would recommend mocking everything up on the truck at ride height before welding anything as well.

I use the the bj install/removal kit from harbor freight.

[Rmc]

To seperate ball joints hit the knuckle, NOT the balljoints, not the castle nut nothing else but the knuckle right beside the balljoints. They pop within 2 or 3 smacks usually. Keep the nuts on for safety but loosens out a waise. As far as removing the joints from the spindle goto harbor freight they have a balljoint remover kit( cheap) its a overgrown c clamp with a series of sleeves for different diameter ball joints.

[Rmc]

Here's a pic. Put a half inch impact gun on it and you'll make short work of it. It's 69$ btw. Surprisingly this tool actually lasts a while.

[Jbfab]

Looking much better then before.