Need Ideas for a 393 stroker build

[Seattle FSB]

MOSS2 is right. It kinda' depends on what your goals are. Mine where to have the highest torque at the lowest rpm, emissions friendly and pump gas compatable. I also wanted all forged internals with a completely balanced rotating system. Then you want to match your cam and compression ratio with the rpm you want to operate in to reach those goals. I went with a Comp Cams 35-351-8 (XE270HR), 9.5:1 CR using SRP -31cc Inverted Dome Pistons. Research and phone calls to manufacturers for recommendations are your friend.

Also, the Edelbrock Truck Performer is the best EFI 351 based intake for torque due to long narrow runners, IMHO. If I went with an Explorer Intake, I would have leaned toward a high rpm spinner which is not what a heavy truck wants. It wants low rpm torque which it inherently receives from the 4" stroke (displacement). The key is to exploit it or lose it. We're talkin' heavy trucks here, not lightweight Mustangs. BTW, mine is a DD which is different from a Race Only.



ChaseTruck754, check out this Canton Racing Products CM EFI High Flow Fuel Filter (PN 25-910). Permanent, does a good job and easy to replace the element.

[Seabass]

What are the oem hurdles in order of most to least restrictive?

I've got edelbrocks intake manifold and bassani's y-pipe adding hp to my garage floor right now because I was told they are the biggest offendending restricters.

I was hoping to break 1hp:1cu" but with the compression that low I doubt that is possible. Whats realistic with 351 cubic inches on a vehicle that'll see 80% highway.

[Seattle FSB]

First off, hp is irrelevent to low rpm torque. I dyno at only 375 hp, but have 510 ft/lb torque flat throughout most of my power band and with a faster 0-60 time than a 93-95 Lightning. Leave the high hp for the Mustangs that operate at a much higher rpm.

To go Stroker, you will need to upgrade your fuel system, go to Mass Air and custom tune the PCM. Along with my 4.56 gear ratio and a new 2500 rpm stall converter, I quickly started to destroy my drivetrain. This ended up costing a lot of money for bulletproof upgrades, such as a custom Level 10 E4OD, 1350 u-joints and a Curry F9 rear. If you are not prepared to upgrade the drivetrain and also pay for gas, be tempered in your build. 80% highway means that you may want efficency and economy as well.

My point is, look at the big picture for planning. A great starting point for me was intake and exhaust, which made a huge difference. After experimenting with gearing, I went back to the engine and began to build from there.

[Seabass]

I hear you on the planning thing. Hence all my oddball questions that seem to go in every other direction

2500 stall speed huh? How high is stock?
I was steered away from playing with the torque converter due to heat issues. How do you like it? I have a punisher vb, a double deep derale pan and two large coolers destined for the bronco already. How are you dealing with the added heat buildup?

Adding the valve body already ended the life of the original u-joints haha. I see a 9" in my future as well.

I was originally hoping that between slightly overgearing with 4.88's and a high stall speed converter I could have some fun with a lumpier cam.

[Seattle FSB]

You might think about 4.11s for highway economy. I believe stock stall is 1800-2000. Lessee...


Here is my Level 10 thread: Seattle FSB Level 10 PTS Bulletproof E4OD


Custom Level 10 Bullet Proof E4OD



Old Level 10 Billet TC - 1800 Stall



New Level 10 Billet TC - 2500 Stall



Perma-Cool Remote Trans Filter



Flexible Stainless Steel AN Lines



B&M Racing 29,200 BTU Transmission Oil Cooler



Mag Hytec Trans Pan - (16 + 7.5 quarts Amsoil ATF)



Trans & Diff Temp Gauges

[BajaF250]

Hey Ron,
Where did you get your enging pulleys? Been looking for some good billet functional pulleys... can't seem to find what I want.

[Seattle FSB]

All March Performance pulleys and covers. No underdrive. I recommend that you call March directly as some of these pulleys are not in their catalogue. I actually just installed them along with other engine mods and I just reinstalled the engine. Might fire it up tomorrow for break-in. Next month I am looking forward to installing braided stainless steel cooling lines. But for now I have the ugly blue Goodyear Super Hi-Miler hoses.


March Performance Pulley Set (Crank/Water Pump/Alternator) PN 2020
March Performance Power Steering Pump Pulley PN 630
March Performance Air Pump Pulley PN 745
March Performance A/C Billet Cover PN 385
March Performance Billet Belt Tensioner Cover PN 1435

[Agui-E7TE]

Is there a reason you didn't go with an underdrive pulley? I ask because I almost didn't get my BBK underdrive pulleys because I thought my alternator would have trouble charging my battery but its been running really nice and hasn't had a problem keeping the battery charged.

[Seattle FSB]

Underdrive pulleys can increase about a 10-12 HP increase on high RPM race engines by inducing less drag or resistance. Again, these are typically used in high RPM performance applications. Many racers drive to the strip and change out their pulleys and reprogram their EEC.

A heavy Bronco using underdrive pulleys and operating in a lower RPM range can create a myriad of problems such as dim headlights, reduced battery charging, weaker power steering and reduced cooling. My stroker is designed for high TQ at low RPM and I will surely stay with all stock pulleys as this daily driver rarely approaches the 5000-6000 RPM range.


Here is what EMP Stewart Components states regarding underdrive pulleys and performance:

Stewart Components does NOT recommend the use of underdrive pulleys on any STREET application. Stewart high-flow water pumps only consume 2.26 horsepower at 4,000 RPM, so the actual savings in parasitic horsepower loss through the use of underdrive pulleys is minimal. In addition, a properly designed cooling system's flow and efficiency are designed to operate at a given speed. In years of testing, Stewart has consistently proven that the engine will lose more horsepower due to higher operating temperatures than any possible gain from underdrive pulleys.

[BajaF250]

All March Performance pulleys and covers. No underdrive. I recommend that you call March directly as some of these pulleys are not in their catalogue. I actually just installed them along with other engine mods and I just reinstalled the engine. Might fire it up tomorrow for break-in. Next month I am looking forward to installing braided stainless steel cooling lines. But for now I have the ugly blue Goodyear Super Hi-Miler hoses.


March Performance Pulley Set (Crank/Water Pump/Alternator) PN 2020
March Performance Power Steering Pump Pulley PN 630
March Performance Air Pump Pulley PN 745
March Performance A/C Billet Cover PN 385
March Performance Billet Belt Tensioner Cover PN 1435

Ron,
Thanks a ton... I've looked at March and didn't see anything that I wanted... this hits the mark though.... I agree, stay away from underdrive pulleys for my application. We just don't spin our motors like a race car and there is no need and it can actually decrease performance as you mentioned above. Thanks for the p/ns... I'll be ordering up a set!

[Agui-E7TE]

Gotcha. I've had really good luck with mine and love them. The throttle response is a little better but aside from that it drives about the same. At idle while in gear, my volts are not as high as with the stock pulleys but its certainly not low. As soon as you take off, the volts shoot up and it charges the same as it did with my stock pulleys. Its worth mentioning that I don't have any off road lights hooked up yet so my results may be different once I throw on some off road lighting.

[ChaseTruck754]

ChaseTruck754, check out this Canton Racing Products CM EFI High Flow Fuel Filter (PN 25-910). Permanent, does a good job and easy to replace the element.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Here's a link for others who may look into this
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cg ... key=25-910

[Seattle FSB]

Ron,
Thanks a ton... I've looked at March and didn't see anything that I wanted... this hits the mark though.... I agree, stay away from underdrive pulleys for my application. We just don't spin our motors like a race car and there is no need and it can actually decrease performance as you mentioned above. Thanks for the p/ns... I'll be ordering up a set!

Some of the pulleys turned out to be not necessarily exactly stock diameter, such as the water pump pulley. This is probably due to the design being generally for a 351w and not necessarily for a Truck. I will measure the stock vs March diameters and let you know the differences. Because I am changing all of my pulleys, I have my Bronco in a race shop for a laser pulley alignment. I will be very interested in whether I will require a different length belt or not and any adjustments that needed to be made.

I will let you know more soon and again I recommend you consult with March Performance before ordering, again some are not listed in their catalogue. I ordered my pulleys from Summit Racing and found their fitment information incorrect.