Shock Valving / Rebuilding *Merged and Revised*

randomthoughtsracing · Fri Dec 25, 2009 6:29 pm

tcm glx wrote:I'm running a 12" short body bilstein in the rear, which has the exact same dimensions as the SAW.

Philo, I did the exact same as you, did SAW for the shorter length, but then realized I could do a shortbody with bilstein.

The short body applications arent in the catalog... Its on my list of things to do.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 8:08 pm

randomthoughtsracing wrote:
tcm glx wrote:I'm running a 12" short body bilstein in the rear, which has the exact same dimensions as the SAW.

Philo, I did the exact same as you, did SAW for the shorter length, but then realized I could do a shortbody with bilstein.
The short body applications arent in the catalog... Its on my list of things to do.

I wish I had known that. I talk to Swayaway at all the trade shows and they tend to have un-knowledgeable sales people. I seem to know more about the shocks then they do. Their quality control isn't the greatest either... but they do have a economical product hence the last of support.

tcm glx · Post by **tcm glx** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 8:25 pm

Sell em and contact Joel, thats what I did!

Ok, enough plugging for bilstein. Hahahaha

Silverslk · Post by **Silverslk** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 8:29 pm

tcm glx wrote:Sell em and contact Joel, thats what I did!

Ok, enough plugging for bilstein. Hahahaha

Never enough Tony!!! haha

I need some replacements for my commuter, it rides like a covered wagon. (running H&R cup kit and told they were Bilsteins with special valving).

Copykat · Post by **Copykat** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:53 am

Stepping up and getting a set of Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks for the rear of the Bronco. I'm not sure what the valving is set for.

For you guys that have set valving on your trucks what do you figgure would be a good shim set to start with.

I plan to revalve them before I put them in. They will be installed on the top pf the spring pack and I'll build a cage in the cargo area. Also plan to run a swaybar on the axle also.

Also looking to get a set of 14" resi's for the front and again wondering on valveing. The front is going to be a D44 TTB.

Just looking for a good starting point. The ship packs are only about $5 from poly Performance so it's no big deal I'll get 3 in a set range but need a start point.

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:15 am

Copykat wrote:Stepping up and getting a set of Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks for the rear of the Bronco. I'm not sure what the valving is set for.

For you guys that have set valving on your trucks what do you figgure would be a good shim set to start with.

I plan to revalve them before I put them in. They will be installed on the top pf the spring pack and I'll build a cage in the cargo area. Also plan to run a swaybar on the axle also.

Also looking to get a set of 14" resi's for the front and again wondering on valveing. The front is going to be a D44 TTB.

Just looking for a good starting point. The ship packs are only about $5 from poly Performance so it's no big deal I'll get 3 in a set range but need a start point.

Get resi shocks if you plan on actually using your bronco. Emulsion shocks are going to dissapoint you.

PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:21 am

Fox knows how to valve. I am using the stuff they sold me. No need to change.
Paul
===========

Copykat wrote:Stepping up and getting a set of Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks for the rear of the Bronco. I'm not sure what the valving is set for.

For you guys that have set valving on your trucks what do you figure would be a good shim set to start with.

I plan to revalve them before I put them in. They will be installed on the top pf the spring pack and I'll build a cage in the cargo area. Also plan to run a swaybar on the axle also.

Also looking to get a set of 14" resi's for the front and again wondering on valveing. The front is going to be a D44 TTB.

Just looking for a good starting point. The ship packs are only about $5 from poly Performance so it's no big deal I'll get 3 in a set range but need a start point.

Copykat · Post by **Copykat** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:29 am

I don't plan to race the truck.......yet. Just want to step up quality of parts and get something I can tune, rebuild, etc.

The 10" 2.0 shocks are used and I believe valved for the rear of a ranger. The B2 may be closer to an explorer or Big Bronco as for reear weight.

The 14" 2.0 resi's are used and valved for the rear of a truck also. But I'll be using them on the front.

The last time I weighed my truck it was about 1900 Kg's. (4180 Lbs) Weight bias was about 60/40.

78Class3 · Post by **78Class3** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:44 am

Same topic. Where do you guys buy your fox shocks from since they don't sell directly from the factory? I called ORW and they only have 50/70 valved 2.5 smoothies in stock. Would this work for my rear end with a deaver race pack and/or for front straight axle coil over suspension? Thanks

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:00 pm

78Class3 wrote:Same topic. Where do you guys buy your fox shocks from since they don't sell directly from the factory? I called ORW and they only have 50/70 valved 2.5 smoothies in stock. Would this work for my rear end with a deaver race pack and/or for front straight axle coil over suspension? Thanks

Poly Performance
Kartek
McKenzies

In that order.

F-150speed · Post by **F-150speed** » Fri May 20, 2011 1:28 pm

So I had those 14" stroke Fox reservoir shocks given to me and they needed some parts. I bought a pair of 8" stroke Fox emulsion shocks for $40 just for parts. I figure while I have these shocks apart to fix the one pair I might as well valve them too. Can anyone tell me what a good ballpark valve stack would be? I know I won't be able to dial it in without mounting them and running them.

1994 F-150 ex cab, 5.0, Rancho R/A, 35" tires, coils are gonna be Deavers and there will be a winch mounted, shocks are 14" Fox RR with 2" bodies. Thanks

F-150speed · Post by **F-150speed** » Sat May 21, 2011 1:12 pm

Nobody huh?

jimmyd · Post by **jimmyd** » Sat May 21, 2011 7:31 pm

honestly i would just put it under there and see what it does. thats what i did with my set of kings. had to take them out and take one valve shim out of the compression side, rides good now. however i think most guys (and Fox racing) would say you need to send them to someone, with a breakdown of your vehicle weight to get the right valving. again, not what i did though.

shockseals.com · Post by **shockseals.com** » Mon May 23, 2011 12:18 pm

jimmyd wrote:honestly i would just put it under there and see what it does. thats what i did with my set of kings. had to take them out and take one valve shim out of the compression side, rides good now. however i think most guys (and Fox racing) would say you need to send them to someone, with a breakdown of your vehicle weight to get the right valving. again, not what i did though.

Every vehicle is different and every person likes a car to handle differently so any ballpark is just that...a ball park. Some people like the seats closest to the beer cart and some like seats closest to dugout...its all preference.

Put them on and go from there.

F-150speed · Post by **F-150speed** » Mon May 23, 2011 1:10 pm

Fair enough. I was just wondering since one set is valved for the rear of an F-350 and the other for the front of an IFS Chevy 2500 HD.

Polarcub · Post by **Polarcub** » Mon May 23, 2011 2:27 pm

I would start with the valving in the set for the IFS it should be ballpark area and then its tuning from that point. To help with the tuning it would be worth gettting some vid of the vehicle in action (several runs) and having someone who tunes shocks take a look and make a recomendation.

bajascott · Post by **bajascott** » Mon May 23, 2011 3:23 pm

if you put them on and run it like they are. depending on where the guys who got them in the first place bought them they will be a huge up grade to what you are used to. instead of going through all the trouble figuring out the valving right now, get'er' done and drive it for a while and see what you think.
chances are that you will never even think about the valving again.unless you are using the truck like a prerunner or daily hammering on it.once you get to that point,then you will want to upgrade to a 2.5 or a 3.0 and THEN vlve them accordingly.
the only reason i have messed with the valving on my bronco is because my fronts were off athe rear of a class 10 car and the rears were off an old class 8 truck and they felt like they were hydrolocked when i assembled them and cycled them.
i would just run it.

bajascott · Post by **bajascott** » Mon May 23, 2011 3:26 pm

an besides there is no "off the self" valving when you are peicing a kit together,variables are involved, coil springs,shock angle,placement of the stock etc....

jimmyd · Post by **jimmyd** » Mon May 23, 2011 9:08 pm

Polarcub wrote:. To help with the tuning it would be worth gettting some vid of the vehicle in action (several runs) and having someone who tunes shocks take a look and make a recomendation.

thats a good idea.

F-150speed · Post by **F-150speed** » Tue May 24, 2011 7:36 am

Right on... I'll just run em then. Thanks guys.

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