Cut and turn dana 50 discussion.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 9:40 am

I'd say there is not travel limiting factor over the d44. The shorter beam of the d44 and the d50 beams are close to the same length. Anything you can manage with the passenger beam could be managed with the d50. I think the real limiting factor is whether it's worth redoing the beam mounts to accommodate the d50 over just running the d44 stuff. You have to add that addition time/labor cost on top of all the beam work.

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:52 am

Wrightracing.net wrote:Ok, so what is the limiting factor of the amount of wheel travel that the D50 is capable of verses the Dana 44 Geometry wheel travel? Even Ramsey and Glen don't consider the 12" of wheel travel they are getting on the Van's long travel, but they do handle great.

Slappy style Bronco is at 19 with solo sleeve axles

it is about 5 over per side. The 1 ton or 3/4 ton outer added width as well as the beam extension.

this as well is untested... like Glenn Ramsey build.

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 12:11 pm

I want to say Glenn told me the bigger 50 u joint is more restrictive on angle for travel.... I need to ask again tho

baja-chris · Post by **baja-chris** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 5:29 pm

Yes the D50 u-joint does bind before the D44 and if you clearance a D50 yoke to cycle as much as a clearanced d44 yoke it weakens it so much that it breaks. This is the reason we went from the D50 yoke to the RCV CV in Glen and my race bronco. So this is a fundamental travel limiter on a d50 ttb. Stick to the d44 for the cross over yokes. As far as d44 weakness, it would be the wheel bearings and the cast upright and ball joint. d50 would be superior on those. But do you really need it? I had a class 8 d44 ttb that I raced with minimal issues on 35's. But our race bronco on 37's destroyed d44 parts. I would think any prerunner on 37's is going to be fine on d44 stuff. For our race bronco we gave up on stock parts and grafted a Spidertrax KOH (Pro 60) parts intended for a D60 solid axle rock racer into the d44 ttb housing and it's been bullet proof since including crashes. We can hit stuff (like crash) hard enough to tear a wheel off and not hurt the ttb now.

Regarding the Ramsey Blazer, he made reverersed equal length d50 beams for super long travel. It cycles nice and should work great except for one thing. It has 4" of plunge in the crossover yoke and in my opinion he will not have reliable use of 4wd but it will probably be ok since that thing will not really need 4wd and if he just uses it to get unstuck or pull someone out of a stuck then it will probably be ok. Who knows as it's untested as of yet. I think it cycles 20" or so.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 11:10 am

baja-chris wrote:Regarding the Ramsey Blazer, he made reverersed equal length d50 beams for super long travel. It cycles nice and should work great except for one thing. It has 4" of plunge in the crossover yoke and in my opinion he will not have reliable use of 4wd but it will probably be ok since that thing will not really need 4wd and if he just uses it to get unstuck or pull someone out of a stuck then it will probably be ok. Who knows as it's untested as of yet. I think it cycles 20" or so.

The plunge is a result of beams much longer than axles. Center axle plunge is what made GunIt's first front suspension setup fail and ultimately get canned.

A stock width Dana50 will max out around 12" of travel for a street truck with stock pivots, 14" with lowered pivots. For a dirt only rig that can handle extreme camber change without dive ability issues could pull off 16-18" depending on pivot height.

18+ is achievable with widening and will be more street friendly due less "jacking" affect on cornering.

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:47 pm

Thanks Chris

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:49 pm

Philo good to know

how much do you plan to drop your pivots set up?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Tue Sep 15, 2015 1:27 pm

funinthesun95 wrote:Philo good to know

how much do you plan to drop your pivots set up?

The pivots on my F250 are approximately 1.5" lower than stock. The beams are 6" wider per side (I am using a inset wheel).

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:29 am

copy I have h2 wheel right now that have the inset as well

Thanks

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Wed Sep 16, 2015 5:15 pm

funinthesun95 wrote:copy I have h2 wheel right now that have the inset as well

Thanks

Are they double beadlock and aluminum? I love my military 24 bolt rims on my F350 and my 37x12.50x16.5 Baja TA's but the steel wheels on my Bronco might be a bit heavier than I might want.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Sep 17, 2015 1:18 pm

The H2 wheel is an aluminum 17" non bead lock wheel.

drewbee88 · Post by **drewbee88** » Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:49 pm

BTW if anyone into interested I have a set of forged Dodge wheels that well be going up for sale soon

big-d · Post by **big-d** » Thu Oct 01, 2015 2:40 pm

This one is also untested... I put a D50 TTB Extended 4" on each side under my regular cab short bed F150. I put coil springs on it for now. The truck is far from running right now. It is the time and $ thing...

big-d · Post by **big-d** » Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:36 pm

I was converting my truck from a straight 6, c6 and 2wd to V8, E4OD and 4wd. I had to replace my beam pivots because they were damaged from lack of maintenance from the previous owner. I was also building the truck as a suppor truck for the class 8 team I was racing with. It made sense to me to use the heavier parts for chase/rescue duties. I don't think it was much more work in my situation to go with the D50.

Mine does not have a cut and turn done. I lowered the pivots about 1" and it sits just about right for the pro comp coil springs that came with the Camburg bent beam kit that was on the truck. I also made the radius arms longer and tied the pivot box into the transmission crossmember.

gunit · Post by **gunit** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:38 pm

This is a custom 300m snout that is D44 spec. If I were doing it now I would go with a D44/D60 hybrid

arse_sidewards · Post by **arse_sidewards** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:14 am

gunit wrote:This is a custom 300m snout that is D44 spec. If I were doing it now I would go with a D44/D60 hybrid

Let's see more pics of that knuckle and radius arm.

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 12:43 pm

baja-chris wrote:Yes the D50 u-joint does bind before the D44 and if you clearance a D50 yoke to cycle as much as a clearanced d44 yoke it weakens it so much that it breaks. This is the reason we went from the D50 yoke to the RCV CV in Glen and my race bronco. So this is a fundamental travel limiter on a d50 ttb. Stick to the d44 for the cross over yokes. As far as d44 weakness, it would be the wheel bearings and the cast upright and ball joint. d50 would be superior on those. But do you really need it? I had a class 8 d44 ttb that I raced with minimal issues on 35's. But our race bronco on 37's destroyed d44 parts. I would think any prerunner on 37's is going to be fine on d44 stuff. For our race bronco we gave up on stock parts and grafted a Spidertrax KOH (Pro 60) parts intended for a D60 solid axle rock racer into the d44 ttb housing and it's been bullet proof since including crashes. We can hit stuff (like crash) hard enough to tear a wheel off and not hurt the ttb now.

Regarding the Ramsey Blazer, he made reverersed equal length d50 beams for super long travel. It cycles nice and should work great except for one thing. It has 4" of plunge in the crossover yoke and in my opinion he will not have reliable use of 4wd but it will probably be ok since that thing will not really need 4wd and if he just uses it to get unstuck or pull someone out of a stuck then it will probably be ok. Who knows as it's untested as of yet. I think it cycles 20" or so.

Got any pics of the D44/D60 hybrid beams?

Cut and turn dana 50 discussion.

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