General questions

[paper boy]

Been reading alot of info here - great site.

Some questions.

I am building my Bronco up more for comfort than pre-running. Blew out my back a few times and recently managed to mess my hip up. I am trying to make dirt roads and trails less punishing - and go fast doing it. New seats are being sourced that should help some.

I have the rear suspension figured out - for now anyway.

Currently running 33s on stock suspension - thats on its last legs so would rather throw money at a new set up than doing it twice.

For the front I was looking at 12 inch travel coils but what I cant find any info on is whats the average lift you guys get when you put them in. I know it varies depending on how they are mounted but is 4 inches a good number to aim for? I don't need max lift or travel just comfort and I figure the amount of tuning I can do makes a coil over my best bet.

I have someone who will C&T the beams so that's planned. I would like to keep the 4WD for the snow and occasional mud.

[SteveG]

Welcome.

Have you read this thread?

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... ?f=15&t=10

[paper boy]

I did, and although great info I didn't find much on actually end height over stock after a coil over conversion. More on travel, steering and geometry rather than lift numbers - unless I missed something.

[Seabass]

4" is kind of the average to answer your question. Gives you a good amount of up travel which is what you and your busted back are looking for. Who ever is doing your cut and turn should be telling you what height to aim for or you should tell him what height to set the c/t up correctly . In a perfect world your beams would take 0* eccentrics. That takes the lift and the cut and turn matching up.

Ask all the questions you want in this thread and we'll chime in.

[funinthesun95]

Agree 4" is the most used height

[SteveG]

Ditto on he 4". I guess we need to finish posting the tech articles on the front suspension thread....

[apache41]

I bought a used set of Cut and Turn beams with extended radius arms on E-bay and finally (4 years later) have them installed. I take it if I have huge eccentrics in and the camber is off, the "cut" was probably done wrong ? Anything simple I could have missed ?

[damon1272]

either the "cut" was wrong or your springs are not the right height, being too tall of too short.

[RyanDS650X]

Taller than 4" springs will do that.

[apache41]

Well they are coil overs. So I can try adjusting the height.

[VintageIronFab]

If I was to do a C&T modification again the only way I would do it is the pie- cut method. The lower ball joint pull out method to me just doesn't make sense after I've done it. Personally the 4" over height is too tall. To me 2.5-3" is where it should be. If coilovers are on the horizon the shorter stance is a must in my eyes.

[ChaseTruck754]

If I was to do a C&T modification again the only way I would do it is the pie- cut method. The lower ball joint pull out method to me just doesn't make sense after I've done it.

Why is that?

[Wrightracing.net]

I wonder that also. The lower ballpoint cut and turn is a proven way to do it, when done correctly.

[VintageIronFab]

It's because I think personally you are changing the ball joint alignment too much. There is also lots of variables that can effect bj alignment accuracy during the process. If you go the pie cut route it's virtually impossible to do wrong. I am by far not a ttb whiz but I like knowing that if you stay stock width especially it's super easy to replicate over and over.

[Wrightracing.net]

As long as you use 0° camber alignment sleeve and the knuckle bolted to the ball joints before you tack the lower in place, the ball joint alignment is super easy to do. Also, there is no need to clock the differential. For a 4in lift you are only pushing out the lower around a 1/2". It just seems like a no brained to me. Glen at Complete Fabrication showed me how to do it and he has done countless numbers of them on ttb's on Van's, Bronco's and truck's without a problem. And he has built some of the best rigs out there. I think I made my point, but to each their own.

[mustube]

Figured this was a decent place to ask my question since cut and turn is already being talked about. I have an extra set of beams and all the right tools to give cut and turn a go on my own, I just want to make sure I'm on the right track with where I'm going with this. I've made a jig to hold the ttb beams and have spacers for the end to hold 0° camber with a 0° eccentric in the upper ball joint, and drop the spindle down 4" to where I want for my lift height. If I cut the lower ball joint mount out, and move the bottom of the knuckle out to get it back to 0° then my camber should be good with a true 4" lift spring right? Pics of my notes and my jig...
What's not shown in the jig picture is where I threaded a bolt into the lower radius arm mount to fine tune the heights.

[mustube]

Photo bucket is messing with me.